• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Color of moly paste?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
what's the color of the molybdenum paste used for lubricating the final drive?

i've seen it only in graphite gray-black and very thick in consistency (thicker than the bearings grease)

i was replacing the rear rotor on my mate's bike and noticed the grease was brown-ish (kind of semi-transparent) and not thicker than your usual bearings grease
he said he asked the folks at the shop where he had the tyre changed to lubricate the final drive so that got me suspicious :-k
 
psyguy,
After my saga with the rear spline grease. Rustybronco sent me some of the Honda Moly60 which is very sticky and is the colour of ground up alluminium.
Just for interest I have since found that BMW uses a similar grease called Castrol Optimol Paste TA 08452 It is BMW part number 18 21 9 062 599 and comes in 100ml tubes. It is also an aluminum colour
I also found some Suzuki agents were using multipurpose grease on the splines and were not even aware of the proper stuff and had no stock either!!

My own quick test, if you can wipe it off your fingers easily it most likely is the wrong stuff!!!
 
Just replaced the rear tire on my 850GLZ, cleaned & lubed the final drive during the process.

Seems the OEM grease is a thick brown paste, while the Honda moly-paste I use (recommended here) is as Machless describes, "the color of ground aluminum."

I would imagine any high quality moly paste (> 60% moly content) would be an OK choice however...

Mike
 
I got some moly paste to do the shaft on the 650 a couple of months ago, and it's a kind of bronze colour.
I'll get the name when I go up the garage later
 
Back in the days when we didn't know any better...you used to be able to purchase a product called PCB grease (has lead in it). This is great stuff for applications like this where there is extreme pressure between the parts. Not sure if would be better than moly grease or not...just felt like sharing.:)
 
The Honda moly paste is a sort of charcoal silvery gray.

There's no way to make a moly grease you can see through, so it sounds like the people at the PO's shop screwed up.

When will people learn they can't trust shops with fine vintage machinery?
 
Some of the stuff I've seen settles out in to a clear(ish) liquid and grey (more concentrated) blobs and has to be stirred like paint. I think it was Venex or Verex (or similar sounding name) made by BP - maybe you got the stuff off the surface.
 
bwringer said:
There's no way to make a moly grease you can see through
Click to expand...

yes, this was my initial worry... the grease didn't seem thick enough or solid enough

i think that unless my mate can find out what exactly they used at the shop it would be wise to just clean everything off and do it yourself, right?
 
psyguy said:
yes, this was my initial worry... the grease didn't seem thick enough or solid enough

i think that unless my mate can find out what exactly they used at the shop it would be wise to just clean everything off and do it yourself, right?
Click to expand...

Exactly. I wouldn't have any faith in the shop telling the truth, either, so I'd just go directly to clean it off and do it right yerdamself.

There are clear or light colored greases that could work well in this application, like Krytox, but they're incredibly expensive ($300 - $1,200 for a 14 oz cartridge), and only used for very specific applications.
 
hikermikem said:
I would imagine any high quality moly paste (> 60% moly content) would be an OK choice however...
Click to expand...

Well, ,,, you're sorta right.

A good moly paste is an OK choice, but be aware that pastes with moly content as low as 3-4% can be called "moly". The higher the moly content, the better it is for greasing driveshaft splines and final drive splines. The Honda Moly 60 and the Castrol stuff that BMW uses appear to be the most-easily obtained at an affordable price. The Honda Moly 60 comes in a small tube that fits the smaller grease guns (not sure about the quantity), and costs about $10-12. That size tube also happens to be a lifetime supply, even for those of us with multiple shaft-drive bikes to maintain.
 
Steve said:
Well, ,,, you're sorta right.

A good moly paste is an OK choice, but be aware that pastes with moly content as low as 3-4% can be called "moly". The higher the moly content, the better it is for greasing driveshaft splines and final drive splines.
Click to expand...


Hmmmmmmmm... :-k since I stated "...high quality moly paste (> 60% moly content)..." I would say I was exactly right.
 
Last time I was looking for Honda grease couldn't find it. Bought some Polaris brand high moly Prem U joint grease
 
hikermikem said:
Hmmmmmmmm... :-k since I stated "...high quality moly paste (> 60% moly content)..." I would say I was exactly right.
Click to expand...
You are quite right in your statement.

The point I was trying to make was that there are many 'moly' pastes that also claim to be 'high quality', but might be as low as 3-4%.
I tried to reinforce your statement by saying that higher was better, so be sure to shop carefully.

.
 
Just curious....how about the idea of using Never Sieze paste on the spline? That stuff is meant to prevent galling or any kind of siezure under all kinds of adverse conditions. I would think it would work great. I look forward to all opinions.
Thanks
Willie in TN
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top