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Compression test question

  • Thread starter Thread starter badfish
  • Start date Start date
B

badfish

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I have a question on the compression readouts for a 79' gs 1000E. Before I tore my carbs off I tested the compression. I got in the ballpark of 170 from each cylinder. This is after I let the bike idle for about 1 minute. Test was performed with carbs wide open. Just checking to see if this sounds correct for this model bike w/ 23,xxx miles on it.
 
Good number for a basically cold engine. Most recommend its a bit warmer than a 1 minute run. Its good dont get me wrong..but try a little warmer engine and retest just to see if it increases any. And be sure the valves are correctly done..that will effect things also.
 
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Thanks for the replies. I was thinking it was too good to be true. Once I get my O-rings from cycleorings.com and get the carbies back together, I'll see how well it runs and go from there. I did notice during the short runs that the motor got quite warm for the short amount of time it was running. Again this was about maybe a 3 minute run.

One thing that has me worried is that when I got this thing home and pulled the oil drain plug...I had about 1/2 to 3/4ths of a soda can amount of water come out from the case, followed by some goopy oil. The P.O. said the bike last ran a year ago and was never sitting outside. I don't think that amount of water is from condensation. I'm just praying the water didn't do a number on the crank bearings! We'll see!
 
Ok...thats a different animal!! Get some older car oil that came from your regular car oil changes. Put in a NEW filter. Fill it with the used oil and run it for a few minutes and drain that out..use more older oil and reflush it again. This will flush the goop and water out. Then you can put in another new filter and some new oil. Basically your rinsing the inside of the engine.
 
Used oil?!! Right on par with master links on cam chains. Just put 4 quarts of whatever cheap oil in it, ride it 10 miles or so & take it home & change it out to whatever good oil you use. Ray.
 
badfish said:
I'm just praying the water didn't do a number on the crank bearings! We'll see!
Click to expand...

Did you run it with the water in there? New oil, run it a bit and drain it, you can use that crap in your beater car if you want to be cheap.
 
Yes Ray...used car oil from an oil change. A car oil at 3.000 these days is still actually good for another 2,000. If you read todays car manuals and the oil manufacturers info youll see that the "new recommended" interval is around 5,000 miles. And if it was synthetic..then your way higher than even that!!!

1..He isnt running it for 3 hrs on it..just a few minutes to stir in the condensation and crud. Then drain and repeat.

2..I wouldnt run a bike for a 10 mile or a 10 minute ride unless i had flushed as much goo and condensation out that i could!! Thats just not a smart idea at any level.

3..Maybe he isnt cash flush like you...seeing your an all famous race engine builder and all.
 
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You just gonna post snide comments about the cam chain or actually answer my question in the post? So why is it that the factory pressed links are BETTER than any pressed replacement link?? You dont want to answer that question directly? I wanna see your explanation.

Truth is that they are both THE SAME animal in the end and you know it.
 
Chuck, cam chains are manufactured in a factory on a PRESS! Not peened in someone's garage, by someone that may or may not know what they are doing. Get over your self. I use methods that work & DON'T fail. You can use whatever hack methods work for YOU but don't give people info that isn't the safest fix if you aren't going to warranty their stuff when it fails because they didn't know what they were doing. I stand behind all the work I do & have had ZERO engine failures because I do things right & go overkill on strength & safety on my builds. I don't put bandaids on stuff as important as a cam chain & putting a master link on a cam chain, when BETTER parts are EASILY available, is at best a bandaid or hack work. Ray.
 
No I didn't run it with the water in it. I left the drain plug out for a few days then filled it with oil. Ran it for about a minute or two then drained that oil out (btw was a bit milky looking still). It now has new oil sitting in it and the carbs are off for cleaning and new o-rings. Once I put the carbs back on I'll drain it again and install a new filter.
 
It not hack work..its just another way if you dont have a riveting tool. Its been done for decades and its a viable and proven method. Heck the basic riveting tool back in the day looked like a pair of vice grips with a hardened wedge or point on the jaws. You calmped it down on the pins and that was it. I am sure your old enough and so well educvated to remeber those. Using a punch and then pressing it with something like a BB or ball bearing will do the same thing as the "factory" tool.

Get yourself away from the word FACTORY because its polluting your ability to actually come up with other ingenius ways of skinning the same cat. It doesnt matter HOW you press the pin ...so much as that you actually get a good mushrooming that traps the side plates effectively. In an IDEAL world I would opt for the factory rivet tool..but thats not always an option is my point..so you do what you gotta do to get the job done.

So I guess what your mad about is that I advocate an old school ( and may i add FACTORY advocated ) method (at the time period involved)and you dont like it. Well, too bad.
 
The best real world fix would be to drop the pan and wipe it out, clean the pick up screen, and maybe set a little electric heater up to blow into the crankcase to aid drying any moisture trapped up there.

I dont know your abilities, if you got the expendable cash for a new gasket, if you can fix a bolt that could break off..whatever.

So that being said, whatever your financial and skill levels are will guide you to the best REAL WORLD fix that you can do.

Me..I dont have 2 nickles to rub together, so i stick to the old school and proven methods that I personally do know work..and work well.
 
badfish said:
No I didn't run it with the water in it. I left the drain plug out for a few days then filled it with oil. Ran it for about a minute or two then drained that oil out (btw was a bit milky looking still). It now has new oil sitting in it and the carbs are off for cleaning and new o-rings. Once I put the carbs back on I'll drain it again and install a new filter.
Click to expand...

Hopefully it will be fine.

What else did the PO screw up?
 
Ray..I would like a list of satisfied customers..because obviously I need YOU to finish up my engine on the TX750 project. I will pay shipping both ways to you. God FORBID that when i use the shops ( dealership that is ) cam chain rivet tool that it will be inferior to a FACTORY PRESSED one!!!

And...Just how are those LAST TWO PINS pressed at the factory..with their RIVETING press that runs under hydraulic pressure rather than hand tool pressure. Same cat my friend!!!

Also I was wondering..since I honestly dont know and am curious..do you actually race the bikes or just build engines for them?

Who does your porting? Resleeving cylnders? Head work? You got the Bridgeports and lathes and all that machinery or do you farm that out?

OH..and I AM NOT claiming that i do any of that either...just to preempt your snipey comeback.
 
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tkent02 said:
Hopefully it will be fine.

What else did the PO screw up?
Click to expand...

Hard to tell at this point. To best describe this bike is it has been ridden...and put away when done being ridden. PO stated this bike has a new clutch in it....we'll see once I take it for a spin.

And as for my mechanical abilities, I have no problem splitting cases on a 2 stroke dirt bike to replace those old pesky leaking crank seals and bearings, rebuilding top ends, honing cylinders, replacing fork seals etc. etc. I grew up in a motorcycle family and have learned from their experience and my own trials and errors. I'm no pro but I can do most repairs on my own.
 
chuck hahn said:
Ray..I would like a list of satisfied customers..because obviously I need YOU to finish up my engine on the TX750 project. I will pay shipping both ways to you. God FORBID that when i use the shops ( dealership that is ) cam chain rivet tool that it will be inferior to a FACTORY PRESSED one!!!

And...Just how are those LAST TWO PINS pressed at the factory..with their RIVETING press that runs under hydraulic pressure rather than hand tool pressure. Same cat my friend!!!

Also I was wondering..since I honestly dont know and am curious..do you actually race the bikes or just build engines for them?

Who does your porting? Resleeving cylnders? Head work? You got the Bridgeports and lathes and all that machinery or do you farm that out?

OH..and I AM NOT claiming that i do any of that either...just to preempt your snipey comeback.
Click to expand...

Chuck

Go take a deep breath or 10

This is the sort of stuff that got you a time out, do you and Eric want to start your own forum?

Does badfish really need your diatribes about another member, who just happens to be a professional mechanic? Think about it
 
Sweet...I wasnt being sarcastic or degrading..just that I didnt know anything about you, so i posted the way I did.
 
It's all good. I'll have to admit the entertainment value here is amazing!
 
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