Compufire

[mustangflyr]

Without know what the results of the Quick test it is hard to determine if the bike is charging.

It is possible everything is fine, measurve teh voltages in seach step and report back

Did the quick test and voltages were right in the money, took it out on the street and still ok. Got home shut down watched the dmm ( hooked to the battery) started it up and the volts were down a full volt. Back out on the road volts back to spec. OK, interesting one thought how hot does that r/r supposed to get to the touch? Cool, warmish, warm, or hot like this one? After the Stator Papers tests the stator checks fine, etc. I believe this one is kaput and back it goes. ?!?!

 

[posplayr]

Did the quick test and voltages were right in the money, took it out on the street and still ok. Got home shut down watched the dmm ( hooked to the battery) started it up and the volts were down a full volt. Back out on the road volts back to spec. OK, interesting one thought how hot does that r/r supposed to get to the touch? Cool, warmish, warm, or hot like this one? After the Stator Papers tests the stator checks fine, etc. I believe this one is kaput and back it goes. ?!?!

That is not a charging problem, more like a short or a bad battery. Of course I'm relying on your assessment of the results as you still have not posted them.

You should be able to hold your hand on the R/R and not hurt. Mien is generally not over 100 degF

If you are passing the quick test the R/R and stator are not the problem

 

[mustangflyr]

That is not a charging problem, more like a short or a bad battery. Of course I'm relying on your assessment of the results as you still have not posted them.

You should be able to hold your hand on the R/R and not hurt. Mien is generally not over 100 degF

If you are passing the quick test the R/R and stator are not the problem

Alrighty here's some results and thanks for the help.

1 key off- 12.8
2 key on- 12.1
3 at idle- 13.3 when the issue arose this this dropped to 12.4
4 at 2500- 14.1 " " " " " " " " 12.8
5 at 5000- 14.4 " " " " " " " " 13.1
6 key off- 13.1
overnight- 12.8
The r/r was warmer than the old Honda unit that was on it. After the low readings the engine was shut off and after restart the readings went back up. Have returned the r/r and ordered a new one.

 

[posplayr]

Alrighty here's some results and thanks for the help.

1 key off- 12.8
2 key on- 12.1
3 at idle- 13.3 when the issue arose this this dropped to 12.4
4 at 2500- 14.1 " " " " " " " " 12.8
5 at 5000- 14.4 " " " " " " " " 13.1
6 key off- 13.1
overnight- 12.8
The r/r was warmer than the old Honda unit that was on it. After the low readings the engine was shut off and after restart the readings went back up. Have returned the r/r and ordered a new one.

I'm assuming the voltage started to drop when you held the RPM in steps 4 and 5. That is not right as you have correctly determined. The system is clearly charging, and the battery seems fine with the drop between steps 1 and 2.

If they will swap out the R/R for you then that will be cheaper and less hassle that changing the stator. It could still be the stator though, however the fact that it is hotter than the Honda does suggest a R/R defect though. Good Job. :clap:

 

[mustangflyr]

I'm assuming the voltage started to drop when you held the RPM in steps 4 and 5. That is not right as you have correctly determined. The system is clearly charging, and the battery seems fine with the drop between steps 1 and 2.

If they will swap out the R/R for you then that will be cheaper and less hassle that changing the stator. It could still be the stator though, however the fact that it is hotter than the Honda does suggest a R/R defect though. Good Job. :clap:

The new Compufire regulator arrived and I installed it today. Bought off of the internet the male terminals for the CF connector. Results so far no test ride ( FL thunderstorms ) but in the garage are:
Quick Test Steps 1-12.9v, 2-12.1v, 3-13.2v, 4-14.3v, 5-14.3v, and 6-13.0 so it will do fine until a test ride tomorrow. Thanks posplayr and all others.

 

[posplayr]

The new Compufire regulator arrived and I installed it today. Bought off of the internet the male terminals for the CF connector. Results so far no test ride ( FL thunderstorms ) but in the garage are:
Quick Test Steps 1-12.9v, 2-12.1v, 3-13.2v, 4-14.3v, 5-14.3v, and 6-13.0 so it will do fine until a test ride tomorrow. Thanks posplayr and all others.

Those numbers look good. Is the Compufire cooler?

 

[mustangflyr]

Cf

Cf

Those numbers look good. Is the Compufire cooler?

Up to his point yes, it started off warm (just) to the touch but it cooled down with running. Connections are staying cool also, stay tuned till after a ride.

 

[mustangflyr]

Compufire update

Compufire update

Finally got to try a ride and found voltages on the nose, then the same drop in juice. Found when the headlight is on the voltage drops when off they're perfect again. The headlight has an isolated, relayed, and switched circuit. Got some new components from Eager Beaver so I'll redo that and test again. Sheesh stay tuned.

 

[mustangflyr]

Compufire latest episode

Compufire latest episode

Finally got to try a ride and found voltages on the nose, then the same drop in juice. Found when the headlight is on the voltage drops when off they're perfect again. The headlight has an isolated, relayed, and switched circuit. Got some new components from Eager Beaver so I'll redo that and test again. Sheesh stay tuned.

Well completely isolated the headlight circuit with the EB relays and new harness good there. But the voltage issue remains. Upon following the quick test all well in spec for a short ride around the neighborhood then we're back to the previously mentioned voltage loss. It shows about 12.8 to 13.2 between 2500 to 5000 rpm and the regulator still is real warm to touch, no way to measure this. Also the inline main fuse 15a holder gets hot very similar feel as the r/r, passing a lot of current there? he fuse does not blow. Open to further suggestions, please. Thanks.

 

[posplayr]

Well completely isolated the headlight circuit with the EB relays and new harness good there. But the voltage issue remains. Upon following the quick test all well in spec for a short ride around the neighborhood then we're back to the previously mentioned voltage loss. It shows about 12.8 to 13.2 between 2500 to 5000 rpm and the regulator still is real warm to touch, no way to measure this. Also the inline main fuse 15a holder gets hot very similar feel as the r/r, passing a lot of current there? he fuse does not blow. Open to further suggestions, please. Thanks.

13.2V is too low at 5000 rpm

Are you still getting the same results as you mentioned before?

Alrighty here's some results and thanks for the help.

1 key off- 12.8
2 key on- 12.1
3 at idle- 13.3 when the issue arose this this dropped to 12.4
4 at 2500- 14.1 " " " " " " " " 12.8
5 at 5000- 14.4 " " " " " " " " 13.1
6 key off- 13.1
overnight- 12.8
The r/r was warmer than the old Honda unit that was on it. After the low readings the engine was shut off and after restart the readings went back up. Have returned the r/r and ordered a new one.

If so, you are probably looking at a new stator. It is sounding like the stator is changing as it heats up due to opens or shorts in the insulation.

The only other thing is to measure the voltage drops as in the revised stator pages. If they are high then fix those connectors. If they are low then likely the stator.

 

[mustangflyr]

13.2V is too low at 5000 rpm

Are you still getting the same results as you mentioned before?




If so, you are probably looking at a new stator. It is sounding like the stator is changing as it heats up due to opens or shorts in the insulation.

The only other thing is to measure the voltage drops as in the revised stator pages. If they are high then fix those connectors. If they are low then likely the stator.

Voltage readings are in spec until it's been run around the block, then back to a maximum of 13.3 volts period. Have got the battery on charge and will check the voltage drops. Did a test again on the stator and resistance and ground check good and 5k voltages at 76 with no load as in wires disconnected. The stator is at least 20 years old. Would a bad stator produce the hot regulator etc that I have here? Checked in the old Q&A section and discovered where a faulty stator can produce low voltage and high current, so new Ricks ordered.

 

[posplayr]

Voltage readings are in spec until it's been run around the block, then back to a maximum of 13.3 volts period. Have got the battery on charge and will check the voltage drops. Did a test again on the stator and resistance and ground check good and 5k voltages at 76 with no load as in wires disconnected. The stator is at least 20 years old. Would a bad stator produce the hot regulator etc that I have here?

Unloaded stator tests are very poor as they do not stress the stator causing the insulation breakdown. Given two "bad" Compufires in a row that it was never the CF and more like the stator. The stators can fail in several ways so it is not worth theorizing at this point you have no other option than to remove it if your connection drops are less than 0.25V at 5000 RPM.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=174130&highlight=phase+tests

 

[mustangflyr]

Compufire

Well the Rick's stator arrived today and was installed, no problem install and changed back to the original CF regulator. Thus far initial testing reveals voltages are easily within spec but will let the battery sit overnight off the Tender, clean and reinstall the counter shaft cover etc then test ride it. So no long term reliable data yet but so far connections are cool and the CF just slightly warm. next episode to follow.

 

[mustangflyr]

Compufire/rick's

Compufire/rick's

Well the Rick's stator arrived today and was installed, no problem install and changed back to the original CF regulator. Thus far initial testing reveals voltages are easily within spec but will let the battery sit overnight off the Tender, clean and reinstall the counter shaft cover etc then test ride it. So no long term reliable data yet but so far connections are cool and the CF just slightly warm. next episode to follow.

Well finally got parts installed including a digital voltmeter on the handlebar pad and added an Eastern Beaver inline fuse holder for the main power supply. Out for a ride and the voltages are at- off 12.8-9, idle 13.6-8, 2500 rpm 14.3-5, 5000 rpm 14.3-5 and 13.1 off again. Next to get a infrared thermometer and check temps on the r/r and stator case etc.

 

[JEEPRUSTY]

You are nothing if not thorough.

 

[mustangflyr]

Cf

Cf

Also found when I plugged in the Battery Tender it went the green light in about one- two minutes instead of the usual 20-30 minutes, never did that before. Things are looking up.

 

[posplayr]

Well finally got parts installed including a digital voltmeter on the handlebar pad and added an Eastern Beaver inline fuse holder for the main power supply. Out for a ride and the voltages are at- off 12.8-9, idle 13.6-8, 2500 rpm 14.3-5, 5000 rpm 14.3-5 and 13.1 off again. Next to get a infrared thermometer and check temps on the r/r and stator case etc.

That sounds very good. Now that you have complete the Phase A tests of the stator pages to make sure your connections are good.

http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/3970459/stator-papers-phase-a-pdf-may-13-2012-10-43-am-55k

 

[mustangflyr]

You are nothing if not thorough.

Thank you, I figure getting my problem solved will help save someone else the time and hassle and get them and myself back on the road.

 

[mustangflyr]

That sounds very good. Now that you have complete the Phase A tests of the stator pages to make sure your connections are good.

http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/3970459/stator-papers-phase-a-pdf-may-13-2012-10-43-am-55k

I'm going to triple check them even they're pretty much all new now. And I found it interesting that the no load stator test didn't reveal the defective stator. The stator appeared to have been used as a barbeque grill, nice and crunchy looking. Again thanks for the help.

 

[posplayr]

I'm going to triple check them even they're pretty much all new now. And I found it interesting that the no load stator test didn't reveal the defective stator. The stator appeared to have been used as a barbeque grill, nice and crunchy looking. Again thanks for the help.

No Load stator tests have been debated at length.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=173785&highlight=phase+stator+test

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=174130&highlight=phase+stator+test