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Considering pods

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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I'm considering putting pod air filters on my 82 1100E.

Motivations:
- Extra room for fiddling with carbs
- Better performance
- Carbs need to be tuned anyway

Situation as it stands:
- I have stock carbs (I think - jets unknown) with stock breather box and an aftermarket air filter. The air filter is a short cylinder of foam. I doubt it's very good.
- The bike always pops/backfires on deceleration. Not just on suddenly closing the throttle, it always pops.
- I have a 4-1 exhaust, brand unknown.
- I topped the bike out this weekend. Top speed: 113 mph actual (digital speedo). I should be able to go a good bit faster than that. Something's not up to peak. Doesn't lift the front tire at all either.
- Spark plugs are new, healty and in gap spec.
- I understand that the previous previous owner was a professional motorcycle mechanic who put pods on it but couldn't get it to work right, so he put the foam cylinder thing on.

Plans:
Get some EMGO pods or something. Perhaps like these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7903920818 I'm sure I'll need to rejet and retune the carbs. But I really should do that anyway.

So, what do you think? What sort of money do you think the pods and jets would cost? How much trouble to rejet/retune carbs? Will I accomplish my goals?

Michael
 
Just a warning, pods and tuning carbs can take months out of your riding time.
And as soon as you change one little thing it will completely disrupt the balance and you have to start all over again.

Please...if the bike runs right...just leave it alone.
I only plead to you from my own stupid awful experiences.

:oops:
Dm of mD
 
It's not running right now, that's for sure. It very likely has an air leak in the carb mounts. Another likely cause is a plugged pilot passage. Fix the current problem first and then reevaluate. Top speed should be at least 130.
 
I think I'll do it. But I'll wait until I have more $$ and either don't plan to ride for a while or can pay to have a professional tune them up after I fail. :D :wink:

I'd venture that I'm peaking at half the horsepower I should have. But yes, it does run now. It pulls. It even flies. But then, coming from a 450, my perspective is very... undemanding.

DEW did pretty much keep up at 113 on his gummed-up-but-running 80 850, which was a bit disappointing to me. :lol: :wink: :wink:

Are the EMGO (EDIT:)54mm the correct parts?

Michael
 
Not sure what your real motivation for bringing up the pod thing is. Pods offer better access to your carbs than does the OEM airbox but the OEM airbox offers still air and less turbulance. Some folks think this is a more important performance characteristic than increased air flow. When I get up to over 100 mph on my old bike using pods, I can feel the air/fuel mixture change when I shift around redirecting the airflow. I use an OEM airbox and K&N airfilter and it flows approximately the same as Emgo pods... on the subject of Emgo pods; these are paper type elements and are not meant to be cleaned. At over $40 for a set of four, they can get expensive to change out if you ride much. If you do get pods, look at UNI pods... they have sock type (UGLY!) and the foam element cannister type with chrome ends that look ok. These can be cleaned and while they cost a couple bucks more initially, the first time you clean them where you would have been replacing the Emgo pods, you will save money.

If your reason for messing with the intake is the backfiring, this is most likely caused by air leaks. I would get a set of new exhaust gaskets and swap your old ones out. Then, with the bike running, spray some carb cleaner around your intake rubbers and see if the idle is affected. If it is, your intake rubbers are cracked. Either bad exhaust gaskets or cracked intake rubbers (or poorly seated carbs) can cause obnoxious backfiring. The cracked intake rubbers can also endanger your pistons as they create HOT spots that can hole a piston.

Last... if you decide to fiddle with the carbs, richen your idle mixture using your air screws. This will also decrease the backfiring a bit.
 
I think my Clymer manual said something about making sure everything else is working properly before beginning work on the carbs. I sort of generalize this notion in my own thinking, in that I try to make sure the bike is running well before making modifications. My suggestion therefore, is to try to solve the problem you have now before making a change that is going to add another variable to the equation.

I understand that popping in the exhaust is often caused by by a lean mixture. I've also noticed that a lean mixture seems to cause lessened power in the higher RPM. You mentioned that you already have a 4-to-1 exhaust and a non-stock filter element. Those changes are probably either causing or contributing to the lean mixture condition. There could be other problems, such as an air leak somewhere. The best approach, then, may be to recondition the carbs and their mounts. You probably need to change the jets, too.
 
I just put emgo pods on my 1000, with the stock jets you had to pull the choke up to be able to accelerate othewise it would just FALL ON IT'S FACE.i got the DYNAJET THREE KIT and followed their instructions. she fired right up and performes wonderfully.all i need to do now is sync the carbs and it'll be all set.
 
and i forgot to add i am running 4 into 2 (jardines). and also have dyna ignition
 
mopolopo, I'd go with K&N pods. Expensive, but worth it. You'll need to buy a jet kit because your bike (stock) does'nt have adjustable jet needles. A Dynojet jet kit is around $120. The K&N's are about a $100. You'll also need a vacuum tool to synch the carbs. Motion Pro makes one for $40 and it works well.
Just trying to let you know what the costs of re-jetting could be. If you have patience, you'll be fine. It can be a lot of trial and error.
 
KEITH KRAUSE said:
mopolopo, I'd go with K&N pods. Expensive, but worth it. You'll need to buy a jet kit because your bike (stock) does'nt have adjustable jet needles. A Dynojet jet kit is around $120. The K&N's are about a $100. You'll also need a vacuum tool to synch the carbs. Motion Pro makes one for $40 and it works well.
Just trying to let you know what the costs of re-jetting could be. If you have patience, you'll be fine. It can be a lot of trial and error.
Click to expand...

Keith where did you see that price :?: I have been quoted $50 each! X 4 :evil:
 
They may have gone up. Sometimes I'm a little behind on prices.
If you're keeping the bike, I still think they're worth it. Once in awhile I see a set on E-bay that go for less.
 
$50 must be for a single replacement filter that fits in the stock airbox- I bought a K+N replacement for the TL about 8 months ago and it was $60. Pods run about $60-$75 for a set of 4-just priced some off of APE's website to run on my new carbs. V+H used to make them also- I would stay away from the EMGO foam pods (I had some) as they need to be cleaned/oiled too often. Good Luck, Ed.
 
Emgos need to be cleaned?!
Crap, I have those and they said nothing about cleaning!

:(
Dm of mD
 
K&N`s are the only way to go. Most things good usually cost the most. You will need a stage 3 dyno jet kit. Inspect the carbs boots well for cracks. As a rule of thumb the stage 3 kit is usually a little rich and you may have to play with it. Good Luck!
 
Cbxcris what do you think of the pods on the APE site that oldschoolGS mentioned? I have seen them too and was thinking about them... and the adjustable cam sprockets, manual cam tensioner, big bore etc. etc. etc.
 
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