Considering Slightly Longer Shocks...

[bwringer]

I think we can all agree that the GS850G is one of the finest machines ever wrought by humanity.

But one flaw has always frosted my Cheerios -- you can't remove the rear axle without removing the top shock mount nuts and dropping the rear wheel a wee bit. The axle juuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuust barely contacts the right muffler when you try to remove it with the shocks in place. GrrrrrRRRRRRR!


After close to 70,000 miles of abuse, my Progressive 12 series shocks are starting to get a bit bouncy. I'm close to buying another pair of shocks, and then transplanting the old springs.

But I'm thinking this time I will order 13.5 inch shocks instead of the 13 inch shocks ordained and blessed by Progressive.

This should make the task of tire changing much simpler by allowing the rear axle to clear the muffler.

With a new tire, there's just over a half inch of space between the tire and the ground, so this modification might make the bike a little less stable on soft surfaces, since the tire will almost be in contact with the ground.

I can't think of any other drawbacks. The effect on handling will likely be imperceptible, or maybe slightly positive since increased rear ride height quickens steering just a bit.

Opinions?

 

[Clone]

Brian, how is the wrist?:-k

Must be ok since you are working on your bike.

Ok, longer shocks on the back will put your bike into a nose down position, which to me would make it steer a little quicker. Possibly make it a little unstable. But to accomodate a longer shock, say 1/2" longer, you could increase the preload in the forks, spacer or air, to also raise the front end a little keeping the geometry the same. Or you could have the longer shock with less preload so the rear will settle to about the same position it would be at with the stock length shock.:-k

Just some options.

 

[TheCafeKid]

Brian, how is the wrist?:-k

Must be ok since you are working on your bike.

Ok, longer shocks on the back will put your bike into a nose down position, which to me would make it steer a little quicker. Possibly make it a little unstable. But to accomodate a longer shock, say 1/2" longer, you could increase the preload in the forks, spacer or air, to also raise the front end a little keeping the geometry the same. Or you could have the longer shock with less preload so the rear will settle to about the same position it would be at with the stock length shock.:-k

Just some options.

My 1100G runs 13.5 or 13.75" shocks (cant remember which) I have the preload all the way up, and it just seems to squat a lil in back. I am, when i buy shocks next, going to try a 14" or perhaps a 14.5 back there. Yes, it will lift it a lil bit, and quicken the steering a lil bit (on these heavy sons, that would actually be a bit of a benifit, Not that they are THAT heavy handling, and they are actually pretty positive in steering quality, but a lil faster wouldnt hurt, as they seem the most heavy when youre going quick) *I* dont think it would make it unstable, as i have 14.5s on the back of my cafe, and it handles pretty damn stable.

 

[bwringer]

Brian, how is the wrist?:-k

Must be ok since you are working on your bike.

Actually, Scott is the guy with the busted wrist; I busted my leg last spring. Since you asked, I'm still limping like a peg leg pirate. But I can ride just fine. I understand that it can be difficult to remember alll the broken bones around here...


Anyway, sag, preload, and ride height are pretty well sorted out on this bike.

It took some really long spacers to achieve the correct sag in front, and it takes an awful lot of bad words and sweat to stuff the spacers and springs back into the forks when it's time to change the fork oil.

Truthfully, I'm also thinking about buying some heavier straight rate fork springs from Race Tech -- I'm not sure how far I can compress the Progressives safely, but I know they're preloaded pretty far past the soft part.

I have the "super" heavy duty shock springs installed on the rear in order to get the right amount of sag while still leaving some adjustability. With just me on the bike, they're perfect in the second position out of five. With a passenger, I go up two clicks, and up three clicks with luggage and a passenger.

The rears are the 120/170 springs intended for a Kaw Voyager, or some such really heavy full dress tourer. The heavy duty springs listed for a GS were still too light, but then I noticed the heaviest springs listed in the Dennis Kirk catalog, tried them, and they were perfect.

I don't think another half inch is going to make a huge difference in handling, but it would make my life a lot easier the three or four times a year when I have to yank the rear to change tires.

 

[cloudbreakmd]

Just out of curiosity does anyone know the rear shock length on the GS750T?

 

[Dogma]

Brian, how is the wrist?:-k

Must be ok since you are working on your bike.

Ok, longer shocks on the back will put your bike into a nose down position, which to me would make it steer a little quicker. Possibly make it a little unstable. But to accomodate a longer shock, say 1/2" longer, you could increase the preload in the forks, spacer or air, to also raise the front end a little keeping the geometry the same. Or you could have the longer shock with less preload so the rear will settle to about the same position it would be at with the stock length shock.:-k

Just some options.

A longer shock with less pre-load would bottom out sooner, right?

 

[AOD]

I think you'll be fine...I believe Joe has 13.5" shocks on his 1100E. You may lose a bit of rear wheel to ground clearance on the centerstand, but you don't have to lube your shaft too often.

~Adam