Cooked Rectifier/Regulator

[SteveM]

My '83 GS550ES wasn't charging my battery and at 4000 rpm the battery was reading 11.9V and was dropping. First step was to charge the battery and do a test. Battery seemd to be OK. Moved on to other things thinking perhaps there is a bad connection some place. Next up is the R/R and with the battery out it's easily accessible so out it comes. Looks a little too toasty and I'm thinking I've found the issue. What do you think?

Looks like I'm in the market for a replacement R/R. The dealership can get an OEM replacement for $289.99 plus taxes, but that just seems too expensive. I've gone through BikeCliff's welcome info page and see the R/R from ElectroSport for $99. Is this the preferred replacement unit or is there another I should consider?

http://www.electrosport.com/street-bikes/suzuki/gs550es-esf-16-valve-83-86.html

 

[tom203]

Do the "stator paper tests" carefully before you blame any component.

 

[tkent02]

If it did cook itself, it did it due to corrosion in the wiring connections. Fix them before you put in the new parts. It's all in the Stator Papers.

 

[SteveM]

The white plastic connector on my R/R looks fine and doesn't have any corrosion. My battery isn't draining when the bike is turned off so that's good and it's not likely a fried stator. I think a new R/R is my first step.

 

[MR -K]

I have the same bike, when I got mine last year my wiring was so old and brittle that I replaced all the wires & took out all connectors, I just hardwired them ( I know that's a pain but it insures a clean connection.) The bike still has original R/R & stator, I keep a spare one in my backpack of course.

 

[tkent02]

The white plastic connector on my R/R looks fine and doesn't have any corrosion.

All it takes is a tiny bit of tarnish, not actual corrosion like big green blobs.
Brass tarnish does not conduct electricity, a little bit in the charging system will cause the expensive parts to fail...

 

[posplayr]

It is safe to assume by visual inspection that the r/r is toast.you can confdently junp to the sator test portion f th tests.

 

[SteveM]

Thanks guys. I'll check other connections, but my bike hasn't seen much use or weather in the last 27 years and with 12,000 kms on the dial has sat inside most of its life.

 

[tkent02]

I'll check other connections, but my bike hasn't seen much use or weather in the last 27 years

Dude, it's 27 years, they are tarnished. Spend an hour and four bucks cleaning them. Or don't, keep buying parts, your choice.

 

[Planecrazy]

Incidentally, if you DO replace the R/R, don't bother with a new OEM or aftermarket piece ... Better to do an upgrade to a Honda R/R, which is a common mod on our bikes. The Honda units are significantly bigger, and don't burn up like the puny Suzuki pieces do.

You can do the mod yourself without too much trouble (Ebay is your friend in locating plenty of acceptable replacements), or for the easiest solution contact Duaneage and buy a completely ready and modded piece from him! Either way you'll wind up spending a LOT less and getting a better fix than stock.

Regards,

 

[SteveM]

Incidentally, if you DO replace the R/R, don't bother with a new OEM or aftermarket piece ... Better to do an upgrade to a Honda R/R, which is a common mod on our bikes. The Honda units are significantly bigger, and don't burn up like the puny Suzuki pieces do.

You can do the mod yourself without too much trouble (Ebay is your friend in locating plenty of acceptable replacements), or for the easiest solution contact Duanage and buy a completely ready and modded piece from him! Either way you'll wind up spending a LOT less and getting a better fix than stock.

Regards,

So, is the R/R from Electro Sport not a direct replacement? Electronics are not my thing.

 

[Planecrazy]

So, is the R/R from Electro Sport not a direct replacement? Electronics are not my thing.

I haven't looked at it, but I'm sure it probably is. The thing is, they'll charge you a lot more for their new piece versus modifying (or letting Duaneage do it for you) a much more capable Honda unit for significantly less $$. If I recall correctly Duane was selling his modded units for around $40...

My .02

Regards,

 

[SteveM]

I haven't looked at it, but I'm sure it probably is. The thing is, they'll charge you a lot more for their new piece versus modifying (or letting Duaneage do it for you) a much more capable Honda unit for significantly less $$. If I recall correctly Duane was selling his modded units for around $40...

My .02

Regards,

I've sent him a PM and we wait to hear back from him before I do anthing.

 

[tom203]

The white plastic connector on my R/R looks fine and doesn't have any corrosion. My battery isn't draining when the bike is turned off so that's good and it's not likely a fried stator. I think a new R/R is my first step.

Your first step should be the stator tests- what's the problem in actually determining what's wrong before you buy stuff?
I have 3 r/r's that came in part lots- only one of which is OEM suzuki. The two others are very small (3 by 2.5 inches ) and look very similar to ebay new stuff today. Personally, they look too small heat sink wise. The honda r/r s are much beefier and folks here have apparently had good luck with them.

 

[SteveM]

Your first step should be the stator tests- what's the problem in actually determining what's wrong before you buy stuff?
I have 3 r/r's that came in part lots- only one of which is OEM suzuki. The two others are very small (3 by 2.5 inches ) and look very similar to ebay new stuff today. Personally, they look too small heat sink wise. The honda r/r s are much beefier and folks here have apparently had good luck with them.

The problem is that I have no idea how to do the tests and I don't have the tools or the space to tear things apart. I've read the stator papers but it's all Greek to me. If buying a new R/R will solve my issue then I'm fine with that. I can replace parts easily enough.

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

100% guaranteed you need a regulator. The stator needs to be checked..
You can get a cheap volt meter for less than $10 to do the tests.

 

[cowboyup3371]

The problem is that I have no idea how to do the tests and I don't have the tools or the space to tear things apart. I've read the stator papers but it's all Greek to me. If buying a new R/R will solve my issue then I'm fine with that. I can replace parts easily enough.

SteveM, trust yourself. I didn't know what I was doing either and I got it done with some help. Look around your area and see who on here is close enough to come lend a hand. You'll save money in the long run and learn alot more about your bike.

 

[taylorgaz]

i had the same problem last month with my 81gs1000g ,the battery ran dry while driving and bike stalled, I though it must have been r/r but before i bought anything i decided to do a full check on the wiring, it turned out that the stator cable was after dropping down on the engine block and melted through the wires . cheap and easy fix for me

 

[tom203]

Don't sell yourself short so quickly- you've read the stator tests and must have absorbed some info on charging system basics. As has been said and stressed, clean connections are a must even if you just bolt on a new r/r.
Get a digital multimeter- it will pay for itself many times over in saved troubleshooting time. A reliable charging system is a must for happy motoring!

 

[SteveM]

I've checked all the bullet connectors, fuses and fuse box, etc.. and all looks good to me. Judging by the brown burn mark on the back of the R/R, it looks to be done for sure and a replacement is required in any case.

With the battery not charging while running I am hesitant to start the bike, let it warm up and then proceed to do electrical tests. Won't this just do more damage and possibly hurt the stator?