CORRECTION for 5/8 offset not needed

[tone]

Thread killed by sensible straightforward information
i'm surprised guys

 

[Guest]

Thread killed by sensible straightforward information
i'm surprised guys

?? explain??

 

[ironsheik]

Thread killed by sensible straightforward information
i'm surprised guys

Well, I think it's just about all been said. I feel like at this point, most of the typical GSXR mods have been addressed and there seems to be a consensus on how best to approach them. I'm certainly prepared to finish up work on mine. Thanks for all this great info guys!

J

 

[tone]

?? explain??

I expected some questions or dissagreement with my way of doing things, none was forthcoming which surprised me as they are only my personal,all be it hard won idea's after all

There is no correct way but plenty of wrong ways to do these sort of mods imo so i did expect some coments from yourself & a few other experianced biulders

cheers slim

 

[SteveA]

Thread killed by sensible straightforward information
i'm surprised guys

I don't think thats the case Tone, everything you have said to my mind is correct and very well described and I have nothing to add to it.

 

[KiwiGS]

Thread killed by sensible straightforward information
i'm surprised guys

What you have described seems to me to be a sensible method.
Put things were you want them and then make the spacers, mounts etc to fit.
I treat every build as a new one.
No two bike builds are the same, even with the same parts.
I have built and modified a few sidechair rigs and while the basic build measurements and objectives are the same, length and widith etc, every build was different even using the same wheels etc.
Cheers

 

[Guest]

OK Tone, and anyone with b12 swingarm experience,

I had an idea and want to run it by for feedback

the bandit arm is 4mm offset to the left in the bandit frame. The gs has clearance issues with the brake side (right side) plunger rod.

instead of making equal bushings for the pivot, what if the bushings were 1mm(left) and 5mm(right) offsetting the arm like in the bandit frame. Then using the the stock spacer bringing back to center line.

That may leave enough room on the brake side not to half to mod the plunger.

Then you have the same setup as in the bandit frame only more right hand room.

Just throwin it out there cuz I know there are 1100E guys looking for ways to fit the arm without moving the plunger.

I may be having a crack flashback or a moment of clarity.

Has anyone thought of that? or tried it?

 

[TheCafeKid]

OK Tone, and anyone with b12 swingarm experience,

I had an idea and want to run it by for feedback

the bandit arm is 4mm offset to the left in the bandit frame. The gs has clearance issues with the brake side (right side) plunger rod.

instead of making equal bushings for the pivot, what if the bushings were 1mm(left) and 5mm(right) offsetting the arm like in the bandit frame. Then using the the stock spacer bringing back to center line.

That may leave enough room on the brake side not to half to mod the plunger.

Then you have the same setup as in the bandit frame only more right hand room.

Just throwin it out there cuz I know there are 1100E guys looking for ways to fit the arm without moving the plunger.

I may be having a crack flashback or a moment of clarity.

Has anyone thought of that? or tried it?

4mm sounds like it might do just the trick....you might be a genius. Then again, you might be Satan too...

 

[Guest]

I expected some questions or dissagreement with my way of doing things, none was forthcoming which surprised me as they are only my personal,all be it hard won idea's after all

There is no correct way but plenty of wrong ways to do these sort of mods imo so i did expect some coments from yourself & a few other experianced biulders

cheers slim

Nothing wrong with sound methods and other methods to get to the same place. Its good to go at a problem from many directions.

I find a straight edge to the front wheel problematic as far as making sure the front wheel is completely straight or not, trying to find a strait edge that long that is dead straight without variance.

I am comfortable centering the wheel to the pivot. The stock wheel sits center in the stock arm which is center in the frame (for argument sake) so if the new wheel is centered to the new pivot it will be located in the same place the stock wheel was. Generally speaking.

That being said I suggest that everyone do there own final measuring and adjust the spacing as necessary if they need it better than the factory.

 

[Guest]

4mm sounds like it might do just the trick....you might be a genius. Then again, you might be Satan too...

Easy now, its just a theory until someone varifies it. It could also just be a kettle of fish.

 

[Mark M]

you might be a genius. Then again, you might be Satan too...

Why not both?

I like where this is going, I am getting closer and closer to convinced to start looking for parts.... But right now I have a paint job to finish and a bunch of other dreck to sort out.

Mark

 

[tone]

OK Tone, and anyone with b12 swingarm experience,

I had an idea and want to run it by for feedback

the bandit arm is 4mm offset to the left in the bandit frame. The gs has clearance issues with the brake side (right side) plunger rod.

instead of making equal bushings for the pivot, what if the bushings were 1mm(left) and 5mm(right) offsetting the arm like in the bandit frame. Then using the the stock spacer bringing back to center line.

That may leave enough room on the brake side not to half to mod the plunger.

Then you have the same setup as in the bandit frame only more right hand room.

Just throwin it out there cuz I know there are 1100E guys looking for ways to fit the arm without moving the plunger.

I may be having a crack flashback or a moment of clarity.

Has anyone thought of that? or tried it?

Now this one has taken some thinking about still not sure ive got it right so i'm Just thinking out loud here, pick me up if i'm wrong :-k

The object is to leave enough clearance for the rear brake cylinder ?

The b12 swingarm is ofset by around 4mm, in the legs of the arm i think rather than being over to one side in the stock frame

Moving the arm (when looking from the rear) to the left of the frame may leave clearance for the aforementioned cylinder ?

If the above is correct i can only see a couple of things to look out for ...

The swingarm a couple of inches back from the pivot (chain side) may be very close to the frame or even touch

A new chain runner will probably need to be made

The brake mount or spacing will need to be changed or trimmed to get the wheel back central

shock linkages will be ofsett which isnt a problem for a monoshock but may cause a problem if you twin shock the arm

All in all i think it can be done & mr katman just had a moment of clarity

 

[Guest]

twin shocking can be adjusted by placement of the shock mounts. the larger left hand spacer allows you to move the shock mount inboard that 4mm.

MOno shock... Don't some bikes have an offset shock? would the 4mm matter much since you have to build the linkage anyway?

The chain runner has to be carved up anyway. way too large for the gs as the bandit has something like 1" bosses at the pivot.

I was just thinking out loud too. I don't know if the math works or the practical. Just thought I would throw it out there and someone could run with it.

 

[tone]

Agreed katman

plenty of bikes have ofsett monoshock mounts, with the twin shocks i was thinking the new shock mount on the brake side will be hanging off the side of the arm a little & would maybe need to be L shaped, hope that explains it well enough

i think it will work the only real question is where do to get the 4mm ofsett on the stock spacers from that one has me confused (unless i'm reading it wrong)

as far as i'm aware the stock b12 spacers are equal on each side :-k

 

[Guest]

Agreed katman

plenty of bikes have ofsett monoshock mounts, with the twin shocks i was thinking the new shock mount on the brake side will be hanging off the side of the arm a little & would maybe need to be L shaped, hope that explains it well enough

i think it will work the only real question is where do to get the 4mm ofsett on the stock spacers from that one has me confused (unless i'm reading it wrong)

as far as i'm aware the stock b12 spacers are equal on each side :-k

The shock mounts are in the center of the arm so there is a little room to move them over but your right, maybe not enough but I think so.

as far as the pivot bushings go the gs needs 3mm collars on the new reducer bushings to snug it up to the gs frame so.. my thought is instead of making two 3mm bushings that go into the stock bushings make one 1mm on the left side and the right side make 5mm which gives you a 4mm offset and the 6mm's you need to fill the gap in the frame.

Thats the theory anyway, practically it may be a diff story.

 

[tone]

yeah i think we got it now mate cant see a problem with it that cant be sorted out easilly enough

on the mono setup moving the arm over & remaking the top shock mount & linkage mount to suit wont be a problem, i think you misunderstood my previous post on that one lol

 

[FJman]

I find a straight edge to the front wheel problematic as far as making sure the front wheel is completely straight or not, trying to find a strait edge that long that is dead straight without variance.

An 8' light bulb will work well enough to line up my rear wheel when tensioning the chain, can't see why that wouldn't be accurate enough for this sort of work either.

 

[kichigai]

Can i still use the 13mm offset on MY project like Kichigai did or will that not work??

Looks like I may have to get a chain line up tool after all to make sure my setup is not off, but so far my bike seem to be working just fine. All I can say is that I had all kinds of clearance issues when I used the 5/8 offset sprocket with my particular setup.

 

[Guest]

do what Tone suggested and line up your front and rear wheels and see if they do?

for the chain I use a laser that clamps to the sprocket. I can move it up and down along the chain on a pivot and see if the light runs off the chain before it gets to the front sprocket. if it does then my sprocket is not aligned with the chain.

 

[tone]

Looks like I may have to get a chain line up tool after all to make sure my setup is not off, but so far my bike seem to be working just fine. All I can say is that I had all kinds of clearance issues when I used the 5/8 offset sprocket with my particular setup.

As katman says i suggest you start with the wheels, chain can be dead straight but that means nothing if the wheels are misaligned, ive seen this many times as a lot of people fail to seperate the two jobs

Let us know how you get on please