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Crank case air filter.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Boozy Creek Beast
  • Start date Start date
B

Boozy Creek Beast

Guest
I am useing the original air box with a K&N high flow air filter on my GS1100 E with a 1166 kit and a stage 1 jet kit. I am not happy with the hose that runs between the air box and my valve cover. If I replaced the hose with a individule crank case air filter would it be ok or will it cause problems.

The Beast
 
me to

me to

Heyyyyyyy I changed from my stock air box on a 1980 GS1000G to pods and had not given any thought about what to do with the vent tube. I also could use some help[-o<
 
You could just run a hose out past the edge of the rear fender so you don't get the oily mess on other parts of the bike. There are catch bottles you can make or buy to catch the oil as well.
 
after using a couple of different filters (they seemed to show the smoke more when the enginge gets hot) I found running a straight hose down by the battery vent tube seems to be the cleanest setup .And now the light smoke seems gone!!
 
Here's what I did. The reservoir is a rear shock dust cover. A hard days riding can collect about a 1/4" of soup. So I put a small folded napkin at the bottom and there's no way to splash out. The napkin generally dries out by itself but I sometimes just put a fresh one in every once in awhile. It's hidden and keeps the bike and floor clean too.

site1039.jpg
 
Extra nice mod. Thanks for the photo. Your post also tells us how important it is for oil to heat up enough to boil off moisture.

I just noticed it was you Keith. I should have suspected you because you are a fussy ass about working on your machinery lol
 
scotty said:
Extra nice mod. Thanks for the photo. Your post also tells us how important it is for oil to heat up enough to boil off moisture.

I just noticed it was you Keith. I should have suspected you because you are a fussy ass about working on your machinery lol
I guess I am fussy. It's an illness I guess.
This mod works for me. If a longer line is routed out the rear, any dip in the line will collect a lot of discharge before it gets spit out. And with the line filled at the low spot, that's not very good crankcase venting either.
A shorter line draining to the ground generally works but can make a mess. It also can get some discharge on the rear tire, depending on its location.
 
I also still have the stock setup, but havent really taken notice of many ill-affects. what are the pros and cons of this thing?
 
Poot said:
I also still have the stock setup, but havent really taken notice of many ill-affects. what are the pros and cons of this thing?
No ill effects with the stock airbox and breather hose that I know of. I guess Boozy just doesn't prefer the stock set up, so he wants some other ideas.
 
I was checking out E-bay and they were selling a couple of Crank Case Air filters. My bike runs fine but I thought they might help. No other reason.

The Beast
 
Breather Filter Info...

Breather Filter Info...

KEITH KRAUSE said:
No ill effects with the stock airbox and breather hose that I know of. I guess Boozy just doesn't prefer the stock set up, so he wants some other ideas.

Hi Keith, nice setup, i'm thinking of doing the same. Do you have exact filter info? If its K&N what part number should I search for? If not K&N I guess measurements would be handy (3/8" inlet for hose fitting?) just guessing? Any help would be appreciated.

==================================================
1979 GS1000E

"NEVER MESS WITH A GS"
"The less you know, the more you believe."
"We thought that we had the answers, it was the questions we had wrong."
 
mkaczmarek said:
Hi Keith, nice setup, i'm thinking of doing the same. Do you have exact filter info? If its K&N what part number should I search for? If not K&N I guess measurements would be handy (3/8" inlet for hose fitting?) just guessing? Any help would be appreciated.

Yes, it's a K&N chrome breather filter, requires oiling before installing. Part number on the back says B020A4. Both the filter and my bikes breather fitting are 3/8".
If that number doesn't help, I'll try to look through my receipts if they use a different number, but that one will probably work. The hose is 3/8" I.D. of course. At the engine end, I used a plastic tie to be sure of a snug fit.
This is the one case where I don't think the filter really has to be any specific brand name. Any breather filter should do the job well enough. I forget how the K&N price compares to cheaper brands, but it wasn't that expensive.
I DO recommend K&N air filters though, over cheaper brands. You get what you pay for.
 
I just checked the K&N Website, that number doesn't seem to work, I tried to put in O instead of 0 (zeros), in various combinations etc, with no luck. If you get a chance to find that number I would appreciate it.

I have been using K&N filters in my cars for years and have it in my GS as well. They do work great and in some cases the difference is quite noticeable. I had an old Mazda 626 with a carb (not fuel injected), and when I threw in the K&N the engine seemed to run much smoother especially in the high end and seemed quieter too, ever since I put K&N's into all my vehicles.

Your bike looks amazing, its a '79 GS1000E right? Thats my exact model as well. I got mine with a black/tinted Cafe Fairing, and the straight(er)/lower handle bars, but all striping is the same. Quick question, did you drill the original solid rotors or did you get new drilled ones?

Thanks in advance.

==================================================
1979 GS1000E

"NEVER MESS WITH A GS"
"The less you know, the more you believe."
"We thought that we had the answers, it was the questions we had wrong."
 
I bought this catch can on ebay and ran a hose to the tail with a single filter. I bought a pack of 6 filters actually so if anyone needs any they can have one for 5 bucks plus shipping.

occ2.jpg
 
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I have the same exact hose and K&N filter setup that Keith has except mine just lays on top and between my #2 & #3 PODs. Any vented gases go right back in through the POD filters. I have noticed no extra mess at all anywhere doing it this way. Not even on the PODs. Any mess that may ever build there isn't getting a chance I guess because I clean the PODs regularly. Keith's setup looks better. I like the collector idea. I am going to do something like that.
 
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Am I the only nutbag who didn't run with a filter???

The engine breathes OUT that tube every time I ever checked it, and if it ever was to need to inhale, as long as i'm not riding through a sandstorm, it'll be okay. :)

My 1100 has the stock airbox still, so I assume the vent is into the airbox on it. On my old 550 I just ran a longer piece of hose to the rear of the engine, let it vent there.

~Adam
 
mkaczmarek said:
I just checked the K&N Website, that number doesn't seem to work, I tried to put in O instead of 0 (zeros), in various combinations etc, with no luck. If you get a chance to find that number I would appreciate it.

Your bike looks amazing, its a '79 GS1000E right? Thats my exact model as well. I got mine with a black/tinted Cafe Fairing, and the straight(er)/lower handle bars, but all striping is the same. Quick question, did you drill the original solid rotors or did you get new drilled ones?
Ok. Looked up my receipt from 6 years ago. Says...KNN 62-1000, under the description... 3/8 vent filter. Don't know why the extra "N", maybe a typo? $19.95 back then.
I had a local shop drill the rotors. About $60/ea back then. The front were in great shape/good thickness. I had to buy a new rear one though because of galling (deep grooves). I like the way they came out. The shop called the holes a "2-3-2" pattern. Besides looking kinda cool, they eliminate galling and minimize any squeal. The rotors are supposed to run cooler and dry faster if you're in the rain. As for any galling, you still need to be aware if you hear something sticking to a pad or notice a groove because of something sticking to a pad. This is minimized because the sharp edged holes actually help scrape away most debris before it becomes a problem. The important thing is to NOT de-burr the holes. Many people think a hole has to be de-burred as a fact of life. De-burring will greatly compromise the cleaning action/water shedding ability the sharp edges allow. If you use a very sharp cobalt (or better?) bit, you won't have burrs in the first place. Also, a sharp bit is needed to avoid any warpage of the rotor.
Thanks for the compliment on my bike. That's my baby there.:-D Yes, it's a '79 GS1000E. Bought her new for my 23rd birthday. 130,000 miles so far, though I did have the engine built by V&H at 106,000. Didn't need to rebuild it yet but I had the extra money and the timing was right for a ground up re-do.
I like the smaller fairings and lower bars too. I agree it looks better. But I'm just so comfortable with the stock bars that I put that before styling. And the small fairing doesn't look right with the stock/higher bars, so it's both or neither. I am planning on slimming and re-shaping the seat one of these days though. But again, the stock "slab" is SOOO comfortable I'm afraid to mess with it. But I'll have a local shop cut it down some and have a denser foam to replace that part and hopefully I'll lose about 1" of material but still have the same comfort. I use my bike for the majority of my commuting so I'm afraid to mess with comfort. I'm one of the few of my friends who doesn't complain about their back or behind after a days riding.
If I can ever find a new bike I really like, I plan to "semi-retire" my bike as a weekend rider and I may then go with lower bars and a small fairing. Comfort won't be quite as much an issue then, but I don't know. I also kinda like those "scoops" that mount under the pipes. We'll see.
 
AOD said:
Am I the only nutbag who didn't run with a filter???

The engine breathes OUT that tube every time I ever checked it, and if it ever was to need to inhale, as long as i'm not riding through a sandstorm, it'll be okay. :)

My 1100 has the stock airbox still, so I assume the vent is into the airbox on it. On my old 550 I just ran a longer piece of hose to the rear of the engine, let it vent there.

~Adam
Adam, like I said earlier, I don't think the brand of breather filter matters but I do think a filter should be on it. Why? Only because the factory venting set up is connected to the airbox, which is filtered too.
It's not that big a deal. I chose my set up because I don't like anything messing up the bike or my garage floor. I ride the bike a lot, so after some time I'd have drips everywhere. I also am into detail and don't like the looks of the extra line just hanging somewhere. I also wouldn't run a long line to the rear because discharge will collect in any low spot in the line and compromise venting. Works for me.:)
 
katman said:
I bought this catch can on ebay and ran a hose to the tail with a single filter. I bought a pack of 6 filters actually so if anyone needs any they can have one for 5 bucks plus shipping.

occ2.jpg
katman, not saying anything negative about your set up, so don't take it that way. I don't knock anyones work.:)
How often do you have to drain discharge from that can? Is it easy to check/dump it? Why the "extra" line going out to the rear? Seems like you don't need it unless you've let the reservoir fill up and spill into the rear line, which would be quite a bit of discharge collected. Looks fine to me though.
 
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