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Crankshaft work for 82 GS1100e

  • Thread starter Thread starter Thomas90
  • Start date Start date
T

Thomas90

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Hey guys, I just bought a new winter project. I picked up a 1982 GS100e for about $800. The bike is perfect except the crank needs to be pulled out, true'd and welded. I have been told Falicon in Florida is the best place to send this too for this work. I live in Tennessee and was wondering if anyone knew of another place that can do this work. Falicon site says it will take $250 to do this work.
 
I can't answer your question but someone will be along soon.

Welcome to the forum ..

That bike come from Craigslist in Frankfort KY by any chance ?

Lets see some pics OK ?
 
I REFUSE to send cranks to Falicon due to some issues several years back with them. I will tell you this, Stan Gardner at GRC or John Pearson at Pearson Racing are both HONEST & FAIRLY priced & will do AWESOME work! I only use GRC but also hear great things about Pearson. I build 15 to 20 GS motors a year so take it for what it's worth. Your choice, Ray.
 
your crank probably will not pass inspection at Falicon if it is already out of phase. they will send it back to you. and you still pay the shipping. You will need to buy a NEW SUZUKI crank and send it to them.

Pierson still does good work but you are going to have a good crank to begin with. or send 2 for extra parts. and get ready for $500.~~$800. bill. have you thought about katana rods?


the bike shop KPM here in the quad cities, send a lot of them to him.
Tom Klemme is going to the winter nationals on a pierson crank DIV 5 champion going for another national championship. Sportsman Pro bike 2008
 
You got info?

You got info?

Welcome to the forum ..

That bike come from Craigslist in Frankfort KY by any chance ?

Lets see some pics OK ?[/quote]


Well, yes on the bike from Frankfort. That is an odd question. Do you know something I don't?:-k I had a GS just like this some 16 years ago, and my wife bought this bike for me as a anniversary gift. She couldn't pass up on the bike because it was the same color and year, and the low price of course.
 
The Katana rods, or 493 rods as they are numbered on the sides, are the STRONGEST stock rods made by ANY of the bike manufacturers! Even a LOT of the Kawi Funny bike guys use the 493 rods. EVERY crank I have built for my own motors gets 493 rods. From a dealer I believe they are around $75.00 each. I can get them cheaper but with shipping you may pay around the same. Find out what you can get them for & if I can beat the price let me know. I get cost + 10% from the Suzuki dealer here that sponsors my dragbike. Let me know if I can help you & welcome to the site! Ray.
 
I REFUSE to send cranks to Falicon due to some issues several years back with them. I will tell you this, Stan Gardner at GRC or John Pearson at Pearson Racing are both HONEST & FAIRLY priced & will do AWESOME work! I only use GRC but also hear great things about Pearson. I build 15 to 20 GS motors a year so take it for what it's worth. Your choice, Ray.


im glad to see someone posted about john and his crank work.
besides his crankshafts, he does all his own work in house, head porting/trans repairs-street-race-auto's/clutch baskets/case boring/tig welding repairs/cyl. boring ect..
all in house there in west alexandria ohio.
if you have him do a suz. 16v. crank and he doesnt have the spare(used) parts needed in stock(crank throws/used rods/crank cores/ect..
i have alot of that stuff and im 30 mins away from him, no shipping needed.
john pearson racing--->937-839-9723

and as far as falicon is concerned...
ive seens several cranks come back to the owners after falicon said they couldnt be fixed cut in 2 or 3 pieces(CHOP SAWED):eek:
you ever seen that one ray?
 
No, but I got REALLY ****ed & stopped sending them anything after an incident I had with them. I sent them a brand NEW Suzuki crank with 493 rods on it to have them Supercrank it. It came back & then the customer asked me to hold onto it for a month while he got some more money together because he decided to go straight cut gears after all. A month later we sent it back asking them to put a straight cut gear on the crank. They called me the day after they got it & told me the bearings were ALL bad & pretty hammered! The crank was brand NEW & NEVER even in a motor yet! I reminded them of this & they said they would call me back. The next day I got a call back saying they had "confused" my crank with another! What a CROCK! I never sent another item to them as I had been warned before this about them by someone else! That person had a crank that only had 3000 miles on it & NEVER raced, 64 year old owner, that wanted to convert to straight cut gears & have it welded to prevent trouble down the road. (82 crank) They told him it was hammered & needed all new bearings & the rod side play was WAY excessive! My friend, another engine builder, measured EVERYTHING on that crank before it got sent to them & it was PERFECT! I DON'T trust them! Ray.
 
No, but I got REALLY ****ed & stopped sending them anything after an incident I had with them. I sent them a brand NEW Suzuki crank with 493 rods on it to have them Supercrank it. It came back & then the customer asked me to hold onto it for a month while he got some more money together because he decided to go straight cut gears after all. A month later we sent it back asking them to put a straight cut gear on the crank. They called me the day after they got it & told me the bearings were ALL bad & pretty hammered! The crank was brand NEW & NEVER even in a motor yet! I reminded them of this & they said they would call me back. The next day I got a call back saying they had "confused" my crank with another! What a CROCK! I never sent another item to them as I had been warned before this about them by someone else! That person had a crank that only had 3000 miles on it & NEVER raced, 64 year old owner, that wanted to convert to straight cut gears & have it welded to prevent trouble down the road. (82 crank) They told him it was hammered & needed all new bearings & the rod side play was WAY excessive! My friend, another engine builder, measured EVERYTHING on that crank before it got sent to them & it was PERFECT! I DON'T trust them! Ray.

:eek::eek::eek::eek:
 
im glad to see someone posted about john and his crank work.
besides his crankshafts, he does all his own work in house, head porting/trans repairs-street-race-auto's/clutch baskets/case boring/tig welding repairs/cyl. boring ect..
all in house there in west alexandria ohio.
if you have him do a suz. 16v. crank and he doesnt have the spare(used) parts needed in stock(crank throws/used rods/crank cores/ect..
i have alot of that stuff and im 30 mins away from him, no shipping needed.
john pearson racing--->937-839-9723

and as far as falicon is concerned...
ive seens several cranks come back to the owners after falicon said they couldnt be fixed cut in 2 or 3 pieces(CHOP SAWED):eek:
you ever seen that one ray?


Terry do either you or Mr Pearson have the ability/tools necessary to degree the cams? I can get the sprockets, just dont have the guage and what not to do them with...

Thanks
Josh
 
Terry do either you or Mr Pearson have the ability/tools necessary to degree the cams? I can get the sprockets, just dont have the guage and what not to do them with...

Thanks
Josh


yes,yes,and yes.
do you know what numbers you want to use?
if you have never degree'ed cams before...
if you want to do it yourself..
you need to read up and a video would be of great help to you or anyone wanting to learn how.
V&H had one years ago, thats how i learned to start with.
maybe someone here has a copy or can tell where to find it.
 
From talking to a few people I will likely do 105/107, for more midrange. Never done it myself, have read alot about it and understand the concept, but I am hands on learner.
 
+1 on Pearson for cranks. He did mine last winter. No BS, Honest guy.
 
Josh, when you degree the cams, make sure the bigger # is the EXHAUST cam. I have the V&H video. Ray.
 
Josh, when you degree the cams, make sure the bigger # is the EXHAUST cam. I have the V&H video. Ray.
Yesir, knew that much...lol. Like I said, i have read the theory behind it, but dont have the tools, and certainly would rather leave it to the experts to do it. I know what kind of bad things can happen were i to screw it up.

Terry, if youve got the tools to do so, and the time, I would gladdly pay to have it done since you are local, and if you wouldnt mind i would love to watch it done as part of the learning experience.
 
Yesir, knew that much...lol. Like I said, i have read the theory behind it, but dont have the tools, and certainly would rather leave it to the experts to do it. I know what kind of bad things can happen were i to screw it up.

Terry, if youve got the tools to do so, and the time, I would gladdly pay to have it done since you are local, and if you wouldnt mind i would love to watch it done as part of the learning experience.


josh,
see if you can aquire a copy of ray's video tape.
the items needed to degree cams dont cost alot for the most part.
1" sweep magnetic base dial indicator,degree wheel(bigger the better) and a positive stop for finding TDC.
watch the video and get familer with the procedure and we can go from there.
if your wanting me to degree your cam's, it will be later on this year maybe even into next year.
my work area isn't in the best shape because of winter coming and me moving things into storage and making room here for my 32 ford ect..
let me know if i can be of any help.
that video tape is on the entire engine assy also.
this is a great video by one of the smartest internal combustion understanding person's of our lifetime.
terry
 
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