CRAZY paint idea ???

[chuck hahn]

Crazy paint idea..what says the masses. I am considering bead blasting the entire frame, swing arm and all and just leaving it bare meatal then clearcoating it. My question is will just clearcaot stick to the meatl without a primer? has anyone ever did this? Any suggestions to help me achieve this??

 

[bonanzadave]

Ya might want to spray it with an adhesion promoter like Bull Dog.

Is there any color you do like......?

 

[chuck hahn]

My 77 restore and the other 78 restore i did in the black frame like OEM.. This one is going to a buddy and we are thinking the bare metal frame, a flat black tank, side covers, tail piece and airbox covers, all the calipers and the rear master clyinder where you can see it on the backside of the frame mounts.... bead blast every inch... tripple tree and all. Then a clear so it just looks like a metal factory unpainted frame.

 

[chuck hahn]

we also threw around doing the body parts in a gloss black then usind a satin clear over that...HMMM????

 

[jwhelan65]

I think it would look good, the only concern I would have is the possibilty of the weld beads being dis-colored. I guess you wont know until you get it blasted

 

[chuck hahn]

Good point Joe. I have personally never seen a bike like what we are envisioning.. I think if the weld points showed a bit of blueing then that would just add to the petina so to speak. Then again the blasting may burnish it off in quick fashion too.. Wonder if the Bull Dog adhesion promoter mentioned earlier comes in a clear? Will google it and check that out for sure.

 

[Macguyver]

One could use engine enamel clear coat, that stuff sticks to almost anything as long as it is not a liquid!

To clean up the bead welds, scrub them with some muratic acid and a tooth brush. WEAR SAFETY EQUIPMENT! You do not want to get this stuff on you, especially not in your eyes.

In a pinch, 23% HCL bathroom cleaner will work too. Same precautions, wash both off with plenty of water.

Wouldn't it be easy to just use por-15 clearcoat? I have not experience with this stuff. Does it work?

I have been considering using PPG diamondcoat clearcoat. Supposedly if you want to polish it after application, sand it. A 120 grit disc will wear out before it breaks through the clear, according to some guys who work painting helicopters for a living.

Very expensive stuff, but supposedly makes Por-15 look like rattlecan quality when it comes to durability and fuel resistance.

 

[rapidray]

Why not clear POWDER COAT?!!! Ray.

 

[chuck hahn]

yeah that powdercoat would be the bomb..pretty much on the rattle can, eating ramen noodles budget here though...

 

[Smokinapankake]

Having just had my frame blasted and powdercoated, I don't think it would look very good. Mine, after sandblast, looked dull grey with some brownish. What would look good, however, would be a nickel plate finish much like a Rene Herse bicycle frame.... DEE-LUX!!!

Bead blast may make a different finish than sandblast.

 

[chuck hahn]

MAN!!! we really wanna go for this look. I thank all for the suggestions and things we hadnt pondered as possible pitfalls.. I guess once we use the glass beads on it that will tell the story as to what final base product we will have to deal with. Who knows it may sparkle and be what we thought or it might wind up back to the original black frame..I got an old 850 frame to experiment on too. Maybe thats the best idea. experiment on that first and see what happens!! will keep you posted as to what happens. Scot ultimately has the final word cause hes buying it from me once its all done.. And yes he is wrenching along with me so he is really AMPED up as this is his first GS bike. I got us another convert for the forum too at some point.

 

[Shin-Ken 1074]

Have to agree with smokin' on this one,

"What would look good, however, would be a nickel plate finish much like a Rene Herse bicycle frame.... DEE-LUX!!!"

A friend of mine had his GS750 frame, swingarm, and rims stripped, dipped and nickel plated and it looked amazing!!!!! Finished off with a black paint job and the magic was complete. A bonus was when ever that nickel got dirty he just hit it with the water hose and a grud just fell off. Yeah go the Nickel however, you might want to upgrade your sunnies, the glare can be a bit bright, cheers.

 

[salty_monk]

Bad idea..... this has been kicked around on here before.

We've done this both with spray & powdercoat commercially. It doesn't matter how careful you are with the prep after about 9 months to a year (inside) you always get some rust forming underneath the clear. Some of our customers want that look... on a bike - might look good on a "mad max" job but not on a stock GS.

Dan

 

[posplayr]

Interesting comments about Por-15 and the PPG Diamond Coat. I could not find out where to get that stuff but the GLISTEN PC is readily available.
GLISTEN PC is made for spraying over polished metals. But what is critical is the prep using the AP120 metal prep .This stuff still does something to the aluminum to stop oxidation underneath the clear. I have been using it to clear coat my bare metal wheels with good results; no yellowing. Don't confuse AP120 with the other METAL-READYTM . MR
Metal Ready is used if you are going to paint as it leaves a zinc phosphate coating
AP120 is used when you are clearing. Might work for other clears as well as the PPG clears.

I would only recommend spraying Por 15 paints/clears

GLISTEN PC is a High Gloss, Rock Hard, Water-clear topcoat designed for spray or brush application over all metal surfaces, including highly polished aluminum and chrome surfaces. GLISTEN PC will not leave brushmarks, and will dry in less than one hour, but will take 3-4 days to reach maximum hardness.
When GLISTEN PC is first dry to the touch, it will appear to be very soft. Avoid touching it for several days until it becomes hard and tough. Accidental contact could damage the surface before full cure has taken place. Like many other coatings, GLISTEN PC is a MOISTURE-CURED coating, which means it is strengthened by exposure to moisture. It will never crack, chip, peel, or yellow, and is very flexible as well.
Note: When applying over polished metals (aluminum, chrome, brass, copper etc) you must use AP120 metal prep according to instructions.
IDEAL USES: As a protective coating on aluminum wheels, chrome bumpers, marine railings, chrome or aluminum covers, grills, handles, ornaments, lights, etc

http://www.por15.com/GLISTEN-PC/productinfo/GPCGG/

Designed exclusively for use with our great GLISTEN PCTM clearcoat, AP-120 prep guarantees perfect adhesion of GLISTEN PCTM to any metal surface, especially chrome or polished aluminum, where good adhesion is often difficult to achieve. AP-120 is non-flammable with no noxious fumes. Wear rubber or latex gloves when using.

http://www.por15.com/AP120/productinfo/AP20/

METAL-READYTM provides the best adhesion for POR-15? on any metal surface, including aluminum and shiny polished metal surfaces. Our simple process gently etches metal, creating an ideal anchor pattern for coatings such as POR-15?, while simultaneously leaving a zinc phosphate coating to insure chemical bonding of paint and steel. Avoid other preps that may leave harmful residues which prevent proper adhesion. After thoroughly degreasing your work piece, apply environmentally safe METAL-READYTM to both neutralize any rust and etch any clean bare metal. This will allow better adhesion of POR-15? or any other paint. METAL-READYTM is not caustic, corrosive, toxic or flammable.

http://www.por15.com/METAL-READY/productinfo/MRG/

 

[Shin-Ken 1074]

Hi posplayer, great detail on POR-15 you listed here. In your experience have you been happy with the quality of finish, durability (non cracking and chip resistant) and non yellowing of the Glisten when used correctly on polished aluminium? I would like to use it on my GSX side cases, tappet cover, swingarm, aluminium rims and hubs however, I have not seen it used for bike rims where I live and without feedback from someone who has used it and can be unbiased in their opinion about the Glisten, I have not been able decide on going with the Glisten. If you could comment further on the Glisten I would appreciate it, thanks, cheers.

 

[will61310]

If you're on a cheap budget, why not spray the frame w/ aluminum colored paint? It would offset the flat black nicely i think...

 

[posplayr]

Hi posplayer, great detial on POR-15 you listed here. In your experience have you been happy with the quality of finish, durability (non cracking and chip resistant) and non yellowing of the Glisten when used correctly on polished aluminium? I would like to use it on my GSX side cases, tappet cover, swingarm, aluminium rims and hubs however, I have not seen it used for bike rims where I live and without feedback from someone who has used it and can be unbiased in their opinion about the Glisten, I have not been able decide on going with the Glisten. If you could comment further on the Glisten I would appreciate it, thanks, cheers.

I have primarily used the Glisten PC on non engine parts and have seen no evidence of chipping or yellowing. It is even hard to imagine it chipping; it could yellow but on wheels done 1.5 years ago there is ZERO evidence. I can use brake cleaner on a rag to wipe them down from road grime.

Not to temp fate, I did a clear over a brushed look but if I felt compelled I would at least try it on a highly polished surface( it is supposed to work). On engine parts, I can't claim any experience but will say it is certainly worth a try. In fact that is my plan on my GS750. I would probably do a single cover and see how it works. That is less trouble than redoing everything.

I plan to clear coat a GSXR 1st Gen frame, it flows beautifully(with a sprayer); just give it a week or so to harden. The Glisten PC is hard to tell apart from the PPG clear coat I have been using.

 

[posplayr]

If you're on a cheap budget, why not spray the frame w/ aluminum colored paint? It would offset the flat black nicely i think...

I sprayed mine with silver paint then clear coated over that. I like it

 

[Shin-Ken 1074]

I have primarily used the Glisten PC on non engine parts and have seen no evidence of chipping or yellowing. It is even hard to imagine it chipping; it could yellow but on wheels done 1.5 years ago there is ZERO evidence. I can use brake cleaner on a rag to wipe them down from road grime.

Not to temp fate, I did a clear over a brushed look but if I felt compelled I would at least try it on a highly polished surface( it is supposed to work). On engine parts, I can't claim any experience but will say it is certainly worth a try. In fact that is my plan on my GS750. I would probably do a single cover and see how it works. That is less trouble than redoing everything.

I plan to clear coat a GSXR 1st Gen frame, it flows beautifully(with a sprayer); just give it a week or so to harden. The Glisten PC is hard to tell apart from the PPG clear coat I have been using.

Thanks for the reply posplayr, I feel confident now that the Glisten is worth a try for my restoration. Lets face it the factory used a clear coat originally (not Glisten) so there must be a clear coat that works on highly polished aluminium and Glisten seems to do the job going by your experience. Once I get it underway I will of course post details and pics here and let you know how it has turned out, cheers.