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CV Carb cleaning questions/ It's Cold as Ice

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dre
  • Start date Start date
D

Dre

Guest
Hello All, I just pulled my carbs out and bought the berryman's and spray along with the new o-rings. I have been searching the forums but am not finding exactly what I need. I am in Minnesnowta where it is currently 6 degrees.

I have an unheated garage and was wondering if with the fumes and stuff it would be okay to do this process in my basement workbench/washroom.

Also I see a lot of varying opinions regarding how long to leave them in the carb dip.

In the guide it shows the small parts in the basket and then the main body and then the fuel bowl all seperate.

Should I soak them all seperate like that or can they be put in together?

In the guide should I spray with carb cleaner after or just compressed air?

Any other advice things I should do (polish?) with what?

Also I have seen some cautions listed such as being careful with punching out the float assembly pin. Any others?

I know I have seen some of these answered in searching but it would be very nice to have these answered directly along with any other on the job experience that may not be in the guide.

Thank you all again in advance and for everything else you do to help your fellow riders.

Dre
 
Hello. i use the carb dip in my basement for i have no garage. fumes dont seem to hurt anything.i let my carbs soak for 12 hours then i rinse them in warm water. after that i spray them out with carb cleaner.just did a set of carbs myself came out real nice.
 
I have an unheated garage and was wondering if with the fumes and stuff it would be okay to do this process in my basement workbench/washroom.
Not sure about that one, I did mine in the garage. Don't think it'll kill you though....

Also I see a lot of varying opinions regarding how long to leave them in the carb dip.
Me too. I think 24hrs would work fine.

Should I soak them all seperate like that or can they be put in together?
Put 'em all in there together and save some time. No problem.

In the guide should I spray with carb cleaner after or just compressed air?
Compressed air should be fine, but some extra cleaner wouildn't hurt either. It's compressed air too. Finish it with compressed air to get all the crud out.

Any other advice things I should do (polish?) with what?
Polish ? We don't need no stinkin' polish....But if you must, some Mother's and a buffing wheel will work.

Also I have seen some cautions listed such as being careful with punching out the float assembly pin. Any others?
Yes, be very careful removing those pins. Rather than punching them out, try a pair of cutters and grab the end of the pin and wiggle it out. You may have to tap GENTLY to get the head of the pin out enough to grab it. While tapping on it try and support the post some way.

The only other thing I would say is check the float heights and adjust as needed. Take your time, be patient and stay organized. Finally read up on how to bench sync the carbs before reinstalling them. Oh..and hook up the fuel line before putting the carbs back in too.

Good Luck!:)
 
Fumes aren't bad but it makes a terrible smell. Maybe put the can out side by the door Just bring it in to do the rinsing. I like to do each carb seperate. Get a set of large Glad containers at market or baggies & keep the parts seperate. Keeps them from getting lost too! One gal can of Berrymans can only do one at a time. Depending on how bad the carbs are?
6-12 hour soak
 
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It is like 0 degrees here won't that affect the chemicals?

they should be fine. they have alcohol in them.:D

And good to see another person in minnesota!!!! Welcome. we should get togeather with others and ride!!!
 
Also, should the jets and everything be fine? Does anyone just replace them to be safe or is there an easy way to tell, I remember one post where someone had cut one of their jets in half and noticed pitting on the inside that could not be seen any other way, Just curious.
 
Make sure you connect the choke cable before mounting the carbs back on the head.
 
Also, should the jets and everything be fine? Does anyone just replace them to be safe or is there an easy way to tell, I remember one post where someone had cut one of their jets in half and noticed pitting on the inside that could not be seen any other way, Just curious.

If the jets look in good condition then just clean in carb cleaner and refit. The OEM jets are the best. It would be very unusual for the jets to corrode in any way unless they had been sitting in water for years or something unusual like that. Just clean and refit.
 
Can I get a

Can I get a

what what when i... Nevermind that

Can I get a second on carb dip still working fine in -5 degree weather?

When you guys take the basket out, do you just rinse the whole thing in the sink first and then take the parts out or what?
 
my carbs were not real bad actually they look like they were done not too long ago by the PO but the orings and gaskets told a different story.

i dipped for a few hours 2-3 or so the take each part out individually and gave it a bath in some water in a bucket making sure to rub all the slick stuff off worked pretty good i think. the jets and what not i threw in with the main carb body and rinsed them off.

i wouldnt rinse the basket off in water as it will dilute the dip just take what part you want out and drop everything back in the dip and rinse them off out of the basket.

i did mine in the basement as well and only could smell gas from the undipped carbs and my hands, apparently everyone else can smell everything.

when i dipped like i said small part went in with the main body teh top cap and fuel bowl you can do seperatly or with everything at once as it all fits in the can just lower the basket with the main body in and set the bowl and top on the sides the bowl will be 99% submerged if you put it in with the bottom facing up (drain hole) maybe 2mm will be exposed to air if that
 
Thanks Kilog, it is always nice to hear the little things that have happened as people experience things, stuff you might overlook IE i did not think about the water diluting the carb dip for some reason. also very helpful to know how to arrange them so they all fit if I want, so 2-3 hours for you worked well? but more won't hurt as some do 12-24 hours... Good info.
 
yeah some do 24-48 but my carbs were pretty clean on the insides and out.

just remember to get all the rubber stuff of and out of the carb. and the little screen on the float thingy take that off as well i used a finishing nail and it popped right off i used the same to remove the float pins.

i am still doin the carbs so it is all fesh in my head yet, i have one more to do which i will wait till i get my orings and gaskets incase i need to reference anything.

oh yeah dont worry about labeling them with numbers before you dip as i learned it will vanish in the dip. which is the reason i only did one at a time meaning i only tore down 1 carb dipped as that was being cleaned i tore down the next one.

i also noticed on the tops of the carb inside they were numbered on my 3 and 4 #4 had a 1 in the number and #3 had a 2 in the number so it was easy to figure what was #3 and #4 just a tip if yours are the same.
 
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The #1 and #4 carbs have a protective coating on the body. after dipping in chemdip it will take the protective coating off and could oxidize.
 
ahh thats what the yellow jelly is after dipping oh well ill just have to keep em clean then
 
I'm not sure if anyone mentioned it yet, but the dip type of cleaner doesn't work well when cold. I may even say so on the directions.
 
I just finished my carbs. I would absolutly recomend finding a heated place to, at the very least, disassemble and reassemble the carbs. There are a number if TINY washers and screws that you dont want to lose. Warm fingers tend to feel and manipulate MUCH better.

I had completly dissassembled all of my carbs, put small parts in a "ziplock snack bag" and the large parts in a freezer bag.

Make sure you have ( or make) a good fitting sloted screw driver as this will aid in removing old, stuck screws! My air adjustment screws had to be removed by dremel :( PB Blaster or other penetration oil will help to.

Take your time! It took me almost a week to do all of mine. I soaked for 24 hours each carb. I soaked every metal piece including jets, bowls and bodies all at the same time im my 1 gallon dip.

Also be carefull of your floats! I broke one float off trying to pull it out of my bag :( at $20 a piece, they can get pricy quick.

I also used spray cleaner to blow out each hole on everything i dipped, then used compressed air to do a final blow.

be carefull when you use compressed air with your jets. you just might blow them out of your fingers. And if your luck is anything like mine, you'll drop it on the floor,, then the neighbors cat will wonder in somehow and think its a toy. Once the cat drops it after a half hour of chasing the damn thing, you'll step on it and grind off the threads and ruin em. :)

That didnt happen but my luck, it would.

Jets are cheap but waiting for em to show up in the mail sucks.

I recomend replacing your O rings. use cycleorings.com. his kit rocks.

I replaced my intake o rings as well since the carbs were off anyways.

And tonight after reassembally, i bought 32 stainless steel allen head cap screws to use for the 4 top covers and the 4 bowls. They tighten and loosen easier later and look better. Use anti seize.

I opten to polish my bowls as well as my top covers to a "chrome" looking finish. Ill have to hand polish every now and then to keep them from oxidizing but i like the look.

Hope this helps. Good luck! :)
 
do you remember what size the allen head cap screws were? adn what they ran you?
 
Regarding the finish on #1 and #4 do Some people just not dip those two carbs or what? I will just do this inside the house although I am already getting complaints from the lady of odors.
 
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