S
suzukiman1
Guest
Does any one know how I can make my 85 gs 700 with cv carbs run with out an air box with out jetting carbs and putting on those stupid pod filters
thanks
suzukiman1
thanks
suzukiman1
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Nope. It needs it to even start up. Why wouldn't you want it or even pods?
U
UncleBen
Guest
Not sure I understand but are you asking if you can run the carbs with no filter at all? Wouldn't be long before you sucked something nasty into the intake for sure.
Not sure I understand the poll either. What's it asking?
Not sure I understand the poll either. What's it asking?
A
Adler
Guest
First of all, the poll features aren't tags.
For testing, you can artificially restrict the airflow by tying a rag over the opening.
For testing, you can artificially restrict the airflow by tying a rag over the opening.
G
Guest
Guest
Heh, I voted... LMAO
I have no clue what I'm voting for.
If ya wanna ride that bike you'll have to install a factory airbox. If ya wanna ride it without filters at all then you're gonna have to rejet it.
If ya dont wanna do either of the two things mentioned then you might just have no choice but to sit on it an make vrooom noises. Cause it aint gonna run.
I have no clue what I'm voting for.
If ya wanna ride that bike you'll have to install a factory airbox. If ya wanna ride it without filters at all then you're gonna have to rejet it.
If ya dont wanna do either of the two things mentioned then you might just have no choice but to sit on it an make vrooom noises. Cause it aint gonna run.
S
suzukiman1
Guest
no uncleben i was wondering because if i put pods on cause i cant find an air box for this bike and from what i know and what people tell me you need the airbox for this bike to run i was trying to put my hand and arm to cover the back of carbs but that does not work the airbox in this bike makes a back pressure i guess to lift the carb slides in these carbs and i dont think pod filters will work???????????
G
Guest
Guest
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UncleBen
Guest
If you can't find an air box for it, just get you some pods and a stage 3 jet kit. I just did the same on my gs1100gl and it started right up and ran fine. You will drive yourself nuts trying to either get it running without any filter at all or without just going for the stage 3 and pods.
your only other choice is to get a proper air box for it.
your only other choice is to get a proper air box for it.
T
TheCafeKid
Guest
If ya tune carbs as well as ya string sentences together, find an airbox for it 
It breaks down like this brother. The carbs were designed around having an airbox to restrict airflow. The carbs are tuned for that amount of air flow. You take that airbox off and suddenly the engine can suck alot more air, but the jets haven't been changed to compensate for all of that air with added fuel.
It's not gonna run. A rag tied over the carb throat will probably start it, but it won't run that way.
So then ya put pod filters on. Still need to re jet cause it's still getting alot of air. And with THESE carbs, re-jetting means buying a jet kit. Cause the stock jet needles will not work, period, no matter how ya jet it. And you'll keep trying different jets and shims for the needle and before ya know it the snow is flying and you've ridden the bike around your driveway a couple times.
So, in summary, either find an airbox for it or buy pod filters and a dynojet kit. Or make reservations at the nutter house ahead of trying to hand jet vacuum carbs.
Goodluck!
It breaks down like this brother. The carbs were designed around having an airbox to restrict airflow. The carbs are tuned for that amount of air flow. You take that airbox off and suddenly the engine can suck alot more air, but the jets haven't been changed to compensate for all of that air with added fuel.
It's not gonna run. A rag tied over the carb throat will probably start it, but it won't run that way.
So then ya put pod filters on. Still need to re jet cause it's still getting alot of air. And with THESE carbs, re-jetting means buying a jet kit. Cause the stock jet needles will not work, period, no matter how ya jet it. And you'll keep trying different jets and shims for the needle and before ya know it the snow is flying and you've ridden the bike around your driveway a couple times.
So, in summary, either find an airbox for it or buy pod filters and a dynojet kit. Or make reservations at the nutter house ahead of trying to hand jet vacuum carbs.
Goodluck!
I can start my bike without the air filter. It runs but will bog down/stall with a good throttle pull.
I've done it for 2 reasons.
1) If the bike sits too long sometimes the only way to get it going is a quick spray of starter fluid.
2) I would spray gumout into the open airbox to clean things out. For this I have to give it a good amount of throttle to keep it running.
82 gs1100gl.
I've done it for 2 reasons.
1) If the bike sits too long sometimes the only way to get it going is a quick spray of starter fluid.
2) I would spray gumout into the open airbox to clean things out. For this I have to give it a good amount of throttle to keep it running.
82 gs1100gl.
You need to stop listening to people that have NO clue what they are talking about! I used to race an 85 GS700ES, my first ever NEW bike, & it was NO problem to get tuned correctly & to KEEP in tune! V&H megaphone pipe & stage 3 Dynojet kit with K&N pods. Ray.
Steve
GS Whisperer
This really belongs in another thread, but I will address it here. 
1. If it is more than a couple of weeks, make sure your battery is in good shape, use a tender, if necessary.
2. Turn your petcock to PRI for a minute before starting the bike to fill the float bowls.
3. Use proper starting technique.
.
That is normal.
Depending on your definition of "too long", there are a couple of things you can do.
1. If it is more than a couple of weeks, make sure your battery is in good shape, use a tender, if necessary.
2. Turn your petcock to PRI for a minute before starting the bike to fill the float bowls.
3. Use proper starting technique.
If you are trying to clean your carbs, that is NOT the way to do it. This will only partially clean the areas exposed to air flow. It is more important to clean the small passages inside the body where only gas flows. You need to remove the carbs from the bike, take them COMPLETELY apart, soak each on in carb cleaner dip overnight and re-assemble with new o-rings. Then, with at least occasional use and proper treatment of the gas for winterization, you won't have any problems for several years.
.
G
Guest
Guest
Last edited:
Posted by Steve:::
If you are trying to clean your carbs, that is NOT the way to do it. This will only partially clean the areas exposed to air flow. It is more important to clean the small passages inside the body where only gas flows. You need to remove the carbs from the bike, take them COMPLETELY apart, soak each on in carb cleaner dip overnight and re-assemble with new o-rings. Then, with at least occasional use and proper treatment of the gas for winterization, you won't have any problems for several years.
I know and I have done that. I'm just saying that I have started the bike without the airfilter and have managed to have it run without too much problem. Just pointing out why I was doing it. The gumout I've done in earlier years on cars and did it occasionally on the bike. It tends to decarbonize a bit if you beat on the throttle while doing it. It's a bit of a technique but it works well and I have had good results with the bike also.
Priming the carbs does help to start it at times after sitting too long but sometimes it just needs a little extra kick.
If you are trying to clean your carbs, that is NOT the way to do it. This will only partially clean the areas exposed to air flow. It is more important to clean the small passages inside the body where only gas flows. You need to remove the carbs from the bike, take them COMPLETELY apart, soak each on in carb cleaner dip overnight and re-assemble with new o-rings. Then, with at least occasional use and proper treatment of the gas for winterization, you won't have any problems for several years.
I know and I have done that. I'm just saying that I have started the bike without the airfilter and have managed to have it run without too much problem. Just pointing out why I was doing it. The gumout I've done in earlier years on cars and did it occasionally on the bike. It tends to decarbonize a bit if you beat on the throttle while doing it. It's a bit of a technique but it works well and I have had good results with the bike also.
Priming the carbs does help to start it at times after sitting too long but sometimes it just needs a little extra kick.
1
1_v8_merc
Guest
Yep, ran my 650 with an empty airbox, and ran my 750 with straight carbs....but Only in the driveway. So you can definitely run without them, but you won't get far, or it will start back-firing like crazy unless you jet.
(i only did it because I wanted to hear it run when I first bought it, and the boots were shot anyways....)
What scares me, is when I read a craigslist ad, where the owner says something like "just pulled the bike out of storage for 6 years, can't get it to stay running, only runs on Starter Fluid"
!!!!!!@!&%^$@!&$@#%&!@????
(i only did it because I wanted to hear it run when I first bought it, and the boots were shot anyways....)
What scares me, is when I read a craigslist ad, where the owner says something like "just pulled the bike out of storage for 6 years, can't get it to stay running, only runs on Starter Fluid"
!!!!!!@!&%^$@!&$@#%&!@????
C
Curly
Guest
I ran with the rubber airbox velocity stacks only for quite a bit. Just had some screen material to catch anything big. Sounded amazing until about three years later when I could afford proper k&n pods. I tried the $10 pods and it ran horribly.
This is all with a jet kit of course. You might be able to get away with shimming the needle, and buying only larger main jets (125 I think!?) and richening up the pilot jets.
This might be a bigger headache than just buying the jet kit though, your choice.
This is all with a jet kit of course. You might be able to get away with shimming the needle, and buying only larger main jets (125 I think!?) and richening up the pilot jets.
This might be a bigger headache than just buying the jet kit though, your choice.
7
7981GS
Guest
Pod filters work just fine with CV carbs.
I have no idea who started that rumor and led seemingly everyone else to believe it.
I run pods on two bikes with CV's and one has stock exhaust the other 4-into-1.
Not a glitch or hick-up with either one. Ever!
If you tune the carbs correctly, no problems whatsoever.
Daniel
I have no idea who started that rumor and led seemingly everyone else to believe it.
I run pods on two bikes with CV's and one has stock exhaust the other 4-into-1.
Not a glitch or hick-up with either one. Ever!
If you tune the carbs correctly, no problems whatsoever.
Daniel
R
rvnkvn
Guest
I'm working on a problem like this right now. My 83 GS750es has stock exhaust, Uni pods, 700 cams, 700 pistons. I'm using the 700 carb's with the bigger jets than the 750 had.
Goes like heck under acceleration, but had a POOR idle and a ocassional pop through the exhaust. It REQUIRES me to blip the throttle at a stop, or jack up the idle speed up to keep it running when I'm not going down the road.
I have cleaned the carbs, set the floats,changed the plugs,ran some seafoam through the carbs, removed the plugs to adjust the pilot air screws at 3 turns out. Getting TERRIBLE gas mileage, and it is starting to run alot better,just wont idle or cruise smoothly.
I had pulled the plugs,1,2,3 were black, but 4 seemed like it was light tan. replaced all of them with new, and started to notice that the 4 cylinder exhaust was not as hot as the other 3 were. So I changed coils, and cleaned off the pick up on the right side of the engine. Geting better but NOT good enough..
Any more thoughts on this one?
Goes like heck under acceleration, but had a POOR idle and a ocassional pop through the exhaust. It REQUIRES me to blip the throttle at a stop, or jack up the idle speed up to keep it running when I'm not going down the road.
I have cleaned the carbs, set the floats,changed the plugs,ran some seafoam through the carbs, removed the plugs to adjust the pilot air screws at 3 turns out. Getting TERRIBLE gas mileage, and it is starting to run alot better,just wont idle or cruise smoothly.
I had pulled the plugs,1,2,3 were black, but 4 seemed like it was light tan. replaced all of them with new, and started to notice that the 4 cylinder exhaust was not as hot as the other 3 were. So I changed coils, and cleaned off the pick up on the right side of the engine. Geting better but NOT good enough..
Any more thoughts on this one?
S
snicrep5
Guest
funny, 6 people took that poll and that includes one who voted in each catagory. why not.
regarding the airbox Ive gotten to the carb part of my rebuild and i didnt know it was so cruscial for testing purposes. I couldnt get mine on (gs1100). But i have stiff airbox boots to replace and I routed the main wiring harness between the frame and the airbox, ill have to re-route that. My 2 complaints bout suzuki engineering; the tight fit of the airbox, and the valve adj screws not having slots instead of those tiny little squre ends. Well at least it doesnt have shims.
regarding the airbox Ive gotten to the carb part of my rebuild and i didnt know it was so cruscial for testing purposes. I couldnt get mine on (gs1100). But i have stiff airbox boots to replace and I routed the main wiring harness between the frame and the airbox, ill have to re-route that. My 2 complaints bout suzuki engineering; the tight fit of the airbox, and the valve adj screws not having slots instead of those tiny little squre ends. Well at least it doesnt have shims.
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