D.I.D. cam chain with rivet link

[gwyon]

I bought a non-running 1978 GS750, and it needs a new cam chain. The old one is stretched to its limit. I was going to buy an OEM replacement, but...on ebay, I see D.I.D. cam chains for my bike, and they include a rivet link. I have a nice Motion Pro rivet tool that might work, and I'd prefer not to split the cases. Has anyone used a D.I.D. replacement cam chain with a rivet link, and if so, what's your opinion? Thanks.

 

[geol]

I have. It works fine although you must be careful to stake the pins onto the master link. It is not like a master link on a chain. It just involves a solid plate you put over the two pins on the end and then stake them. I am not sure how a Motion Pro tool works but most of them are not for staking. It is easiest to install the master link if the cylinder head is off because you can then pull the chain to the side a bit and find some nice piece of frame to use as a backing while you take a punch to the pin ends. If you don't have the head off, it can still be done but it is best to have a 2nd set of hands as you will have to do it above the cam chain tunnel and someone (hopefully they don't hold a grudge too long and have medical insurance and don't make their living playing the piano in an orchestra) hold something solid behind the chain as you will WHACK the pin end to stake it (that means you deform it) so it can't come out. If you look at ANY other pin, that is how they hold their plates on if memory serves.

The master link chain doesn't have a lot of lateral, that is, side to side, stress and a master link properly staked is just as reliable as an endless chain. I will also say there may well be folks who totally disagree at using a master link cam chain but I have done it at least 5 times in the past with no problems.

 

[gwyon]

Thanks geol. I think I know what you mean by "stake the pins". I've got a D.I.D. x ring drive chain on my little KZ440, and I used the Motion Pro tool to rivet the master link. It swages or "upsets" the pin, essentially makes it shorter and fatter at the end, so the side plate can't come off. Even if I have to buy a special tool to install the cam chain rivet link, it might be worth it, rather than splitting the cases. Anyway, it's good to know that someone riveted a cam chain link with success. 5 times, even. Thanks for your reply.

 

[Grimly]

Nothing wrong with the replaceable rivet link design - if it's done right.
My technique is two hammers - one a chubby brickie's hammer, use the head of that as the anvil - and the lighter hammer as the striking instrument.
Your assistant keeps their thumbs out of the way, that's all.

 

[gwyon]

Thanks Grimly. Any advice on cutting the old cam chain? You just grind away the end of one pin? This could be my excuse to finally buy that dremel tool. I don't want metal bits falling down into the engine, so I guess I'll cover everything with plastic sheeting, as if I'm operating on a gall bladder.

 

[Guest]

Push the pins out with a chain tool or cut with a dremel.
I used to use a bolt cutter to mushroom the rivet side of the chain while holding the link together with a small vice grip.
I don't use this type of cam chain anymore.

 

[Grimly]

If you've never done one before, I suggest getting a scrap bit of chain and a couple of rivet links to practice with. It's easy, but for a defter, surer touch when you do it for real on the engine, that couple of practices will really help.

 

[bobgroger]

The tool is available for $25 on ebay, I have done 2 530 chains with it. To remove the old chain I just used a 3" cutoff wheel
This is exactly the tool cycle gear sells for $90. Or $40 on sale.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alpha-Motor...ash=item43f20ee532:g:8bkAAOSwa-dWqERH&vxp=mtr

 

[gwyon]

Looking at my Motion Pro tool, I think the extractor pin is too large in diameter to work on my timing chain, so I'll have to pick up that tool on ebay. I've done one chain -- the drive chain on my little KZ440 -- last year, and it's still holding. Thanks for your help and encouragement, guys.

 

[JTGS850GL]

A couple things that may help:

Before you completely remove the old cam chain, link it to the new chain and use it to thread the new chain through the crank gear.

Inspect your cam gears closely for any wear or distortions of the teeth. If they show signs of wear, then you might want to consider replacement of the gears. Otherwise, you may end up having a short chain life since the warn sprockets will quickly stretch the chain. Not very common but still something to consider.

 

[geol]

That cam chain tool on eBay is a dandy idea unless you have a friend to hold something solid behind the chain while you whack away!

Of course, it is also a good way to lose a friend or at least his pinkies!

 

[Guest]

I put one on my GS550, here's the write up. I did have access to the perfect tool in fairness, but it should give you an idea on what you need.

http://biketech7.blogspot.com.au/2016/04/how-to-change-your-camchain-or-timing.html

 

[geol]

Great write up! That chain tool is fantastic but probably costs more than I would spend unless I did this job routinely. Who makes that tool? It looks a lot less sporting than wailing away with a hammer and punch. :eagerness:

 

[Guest]

Great write up! That chain tool is fantastic but probably costs more than I would spend unless I did this job routinely. Who makes that tool? It looks a lot less sporting than wailing away with a hammer and punch. :eagerness:

I'm actually not sure on the manufacturer, it was the genuine tool used to replace cam chains on Vauxhall's three and four cylinder 1.0 and 1.2 engines, when they were stretching badly, around 2000 onwards. Works a treat on these little beauties though.

 

[Grimly]

There's nothing like having the right tool for the job, I fully agree. The cost of that pukka Vauxhall tool would have been eye-watering for a one-off, though.

Previously, a small good quality bicycle chain breaker was adequate to push cam chain pins out, once the heads had been Dremelled off.

Another look reveals the Chinese have flooded the market with some cam and drive chain tools... for example
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-To...664782?hash=item3cf606970e:g:SD8AAOSwRLZUItIn
And here's the cheapest one I found - same one, I think, out the back door of the factory. You never know with cheap Chinese tool steel, whether it's made on a good day or not.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOTORCYCL...6f91f18&pid=100005&rk=4&rkt=6&sd=261825664782

I think I'll get one of these for the XS drive chain anyway - the drivechain one I have is ok, but a bit limited and not as beefy.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOTORCYCL...6f91f18&pid=100005&rk=4&rkt=6&sd=261825664782

 

[geol]

Not to belabor the point but the links have the pins spaced quite differently on a cam chain relative to a drive chain. Would that chain tool work on both?

 

[Grimly]

It looks like it's doing one at a time for the smaller ones, which is perfectly feasible as I found with a modded bicycle chain splitter. Once they moved, I alternated them. Fiddly, but do-able.