D.I.Y Rectifier - Regulator.....with less than 10 euro

[kokar]

6 diode MUR1520 = 6,6 euro
1 SCR Thyristor 800V 20A BT152/800R = 1,75 euro
2 zenner = 0,22 euro
2 resistor = 0,15 euro
heatsink = 0 euro ( this is from my old P4 computer )
cable = 0 euro

total 8,72 euro

 

[Adler]

Wow!
Can It really be that simple???

 

[Dogma]

Ugly but functional. I love it.

 

[kokar]

@Highway_Glider
this schematic is like the original and the only difference is the ultra fast diode

@Dogma
after test I will put in resin


p.s
do you think that maybe I have problem with the law ? ( copyright issue )

 

[kokar]

instead MUR1520 you can use 2 GBPC35 which is user friendly

http://wuxi-xuyang-electronics-co.tradenote.net/images/users/000/289/190/products_images/309442.jpg

 

[Souske]

Shouldn't have patent issues, as its not the same unit.
Also I thought those laws were more geared for companies, as opposed to hobbyists.

 

[Adler]

Still planning on doing an FET based version?

 

[kokar]

@Adler
Yes, but it will be take some time ....

 

[Guest]

More Kokar awesomeness! Love it

As for copyright etc. if you're simply making it for yourself and posting the circuit on here so you don't lose it, there should be no issues whatsoever

If you were to make a business out of it that may change things...

 

[first timer]

so how hard would it be to make a more modern rectifier like the compu fire or one off a FJR?

 

[salty_monk]

A home-made series RR - that sounds like a good project. With RR's being plentiful & cheap here in the US this one doesn't interest me so much but with the Compufires at $180 I'd think about having a go...

 

[Richsuz]

So, has anyone done the math, yet? Peak power, Average power, heat discipation, just asking for those numbers to be included as part of the project.
I also remember that one of the big issues in the past was wheatherproofing this things. I know that a bunch of XS650 are running about with 6 dollar parts from RS.
Nice job, btw.

 

[Matchless]

Kokar,
The shunt type regulators in the late 1970's and some in the early 1980 used various configurations and usually only one SCR to regulate.
Later all R/R's started using three SCR's, one each per phase to regulate. The early Suzuki OEM regulators were very prone to failing over time and Honda types regulating all three phases seperately and thus sharing the current were found to be much more robust.

These things work in a very harsh environment. If I was you I would not try to reproduce the older type configuration and rather go for a later type.
I would not put my money on that single SCR lasting for a long time unfortunately.

 

[Adler]

Kokar,
The shunt type regulators in the late 1970's and some in the early 1980 used various configurations and usually only one SCR to regulate.
Later all R/R's started using three SCR's, one each per phase to regulate. The early Suzuki OEM regulators were very prone to failing over time and Honda types regulating all three phases seperately and thus sharing the current were found to be much more robust.

These things work in a very harsh environment. If I was you I would not try to reproduce the older type configuration and rather go for a later type.
I would not put my money on that single SCR lasting for a long time unfortunately.

Found this...
http://mastercircuits.blogspot.com/2010/05/motorcycle-voltage-regulator.html

That would work in our bikes, no?

 

[Matchless]

Found this...
http://mastercircuits.blogspot.com/2010/05/motorcycle-voltage-regulator.html

That would work in our bikes, no?

For sure, that design is regulating all three phases seperately, which is what we want! 1/3 of the current through each - less heat, more longevity!

Or read the great many posts and threads by Posplayr has on using the series 3 phase type which he has proved to be much more robust, gentler with your stator and really a better choice with only two drawbacks, its a bit larger than the shunt types and quite expensive!

Any three phase shunt regulator will work on our bikes, as long as it can handle the current requirements. Shindengen made good ones and Honda used them as well. Suzuki did not use Shindengen in the same era, so I would not try and copy those or even use them if possible.

 

[Steve]

... a better choice with only two drawbacks, its a bit larger than the shunt types and quite expensive!

In my opinion, it's only "expensive" once. :-k

If you are patient, you can find one for less than $150.

What does a new stator cost?

How about a new OEM R/R?

How many times to you have to buy them?

How does that total compare to ONE Compufire?

.

 

[kokar]

much better now ?

 

[bakalorz]

Re the weatherproofing:

When I did a homebuilt R/R about 5 years ago, I painted over everything with "liquid electrical tape" that I got in Walmarts automotive dept.
I've also seen it in home depot.

I didn't make any additional enclosure for it at all, everything just sits out in the weather ... I've ridden the bike in the rain several times since ...

Five years later its still working fine.

 

[salty_monk]

Is it much more difficult to design a series circuit? (Sorry if that's a stupid question... my understanding of electronics is basic).

 

[Matchless]

Here is an approach that was used for a while:
You want all three SCR's to share the load at all times. Separate controlling circuits will have tolerances and you may find a certain one SCR will always switching on first and thus maybe dying first over time. You need one control for all three SCR's.