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De-stinking Penelope

I'll take a closer look at the color when I get home tonight, but from what I could tell looking at the valve cover last night and again this morning, this picture appears to best approximate the colour as it appears to my eye.
http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z332/08rangerdan/20130906_115603_zps5aef4bf3.jpg (the V/C area)

Comparing the cylinder head on my 80 850, it appears to be a different colour than the cases. The upper case looks grey and the cylinder head looks more silver. Does anyone else believe that to be the case also?
 
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Then I'll start hitting up Ebay for another one.
Click to expand...

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Just Razzin' ya Doc.........FAN-BLOODY-TASTIC
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rustybronco said:
Comparing the cylinder head on my 80 850, it appears to be a different colour than the cases. The upper case looks grey and the cylinder head looks more silver. Does anyone else believe that to be the case also?
Click to expand...

Hi Dale

Yes, on my 1981 model 850, the upper case also looks more grey and the cylinder head and valve cover look more silver.

However, I think I would prefer them all to rather have the same colour, be it greyish or silverish.
 
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If you must know, I did take a small file to the major defect trying to lessen the flaw. Anymore than what I did would have resulted in a flat spot on the V/C.

(you would be the one to notice it!)
 
2BRacing said:
Hi Dale

Yes, on my 1891 model 850, the upper case also looks more grey and the cylinder head and valve cover look more silver.

However, I think I would prefer them all to rather have the same colour, be it greyish or silverish.
Click to expand...
That's what I've been seeing as well. I might have to try some VHT SP127 and see how it matches the paint that was originally on the valve cover, head and the cylinders.

Thanks 2BR
 
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rustybronco said:
Comparing the cylinder head on my 80 850, it appears to be a different colour than the cases. The upper case looks grey and the cylinder head looks more silver. Does anyone else believe that to be the case also?
Click to expand...


Dale, this is my thoughts exactly. Crankcase and valve cover have a different finish than the cylinder and head. More smooth for one thing. Silver-gray color paint. The cylinder and head are more bright silver. I started typing this last night but deleted the response feeling it was getting too far ahead. The VHT silver is a good match for the factory cylinder and head paint. It won't yellow with heat either.
 
Ed, you can never get too far ahead for my tastes.

When I was first looking to see what kind of paint to use on this engine, I used Ebay as a guide when trying to color match various paints. I kept coming back to the fact the V/C*, head and cylinders being different than the cases. It doesn't help when you ride every day looking down at the two different colors either.

Looks like I will be picking up some SP127 in the near future. :)

*unsure if this is an exact match for the 1978 engine cases.

See this post for VHT Nu-cast aluminum. http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...d-Stripping-Suggestions&p=1331648#post1331648
 
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rustybronco said:
Ed, you can never get too far ahead for my tastes.

When I was first looking to see what kind of paint to use on this engine, I used Ebay as a guide when trying to color match various paints. I kept coming back to the fact the V/C*, head and cylinders being different than the cases. It doesn't help when you ride every day looking down at the two different colors either.

Looks like I will be picking up some SP127 in the near future. :)

*unsure if this is an exact match for the 1978 engine cases.

See this post for VHT Nu-cast aluminum. http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...d-Stripping-Suggestions&p=1331648#post1331648
Click to expand...

Well Dale, I think you would do well to use that VHT on your head and cylinder and call it done. Regardless of which way you choose, I'm sure the execution will be outstanding (as it always is with your stuff).
 
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The Nu cast Aluminum has a kind of copperish tone to it Dale..versus the silver aluminum look of the universal Aluminum ( Sp-127 ). I shot that Nu cast on a case and had the stripper on it in less than 15 minutes to get that crap off the block. Threw the can away. Was not impressed by the color by any stretch.
 
Thanks for the kind words Ed. I May not always execute everything perfectly but I try to do the best I can with what I have and to the best of my abilities.
You are partially to blame for that... :)

Thanks Chuck. Looks like SP127 it is.
 
Yeah,,you would be seriously pi$$ed if you shot the jugs with that Nu Cast stuff. Want the nice silvery aluminum look you definitely want the Universal Aluminum ( SP-127 ).
 
I have a half a pint of PPG global D9700 basecoat coming from one of my favorite body shops.

Gratis... I guess all those years fixing their equipment has paid off.

Just might give painting the tins a whorl this weekend. :D
 
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Oh boy! Can't wait for the photos! What clear are you using Dale? You going to clear over the black and then lay the graphics down on top of that, or are the graphics going down on the base coat?
 
If you're going to be looking at the finished product, I wish to claim the right to the '5 foot' rule right now.

In order as I have it in my head at the moment.

Filler
DPLF epoxy primer
NCP250 sandable primer
DPLF applied as a sealer (sealer required for black basecoat over sanded primers)
D9700
PPG shopline JC661 clear applied as a midcoat (depends on dust conditions)
Decals
JC661

http://us.ppgrefinish.com/PPG-Refinish/products.aspx

The clear stages will all depend on the amount of dust in my temporary booth setup.
I might see if I can borrow a real paint booth for the final clear if dust is going to be anything other than a minor issue.
 
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Dale,
I don't get on this site as often as I used too. And to my surprise you have been very busy on your GS1000 project.
I'm sure that when you finish it will be something to marvel at. After all that work, I'd be scared to even touch it, never mind ride it. I mean you might get
a little dirt on it.
I thought I'd send you this maybe as a little inspiration as to what we could all be looking at when you finish yours.
A photo of my beloved '78 Skunk. It had less than 500 miles on it when this photo was taken. It is totally bone stock. Not even the first oil change yet.
It turned out to be a great bike, of all that I had, my absolute favorite. It was indeed bulletproof as I showed no mercy in my riding it.
I hope that a few of some of the parts I sent you end up on yours.

 
Steve, my GS1000EC consists of mainly parts from other bikes-including some that you sent me. :)
 
rustybronco said:
Filler
DPLF epoxy primer
NCP250 sandable primer
DPLF applied as a sealer (sealer required for black basecoat over sanded primers)
D9700
PPG shopline JC661 clear applied as a midcoat (depends on dust conditions)
Decals
JC661
Click to expand...

Compared to the original factory painting process:

Whisper-thin basecoat
Decals
Whisper-thin clearcoat

:anonymous:
 
The new respirator came in today. The tank is sanded ready for filler in the morning.

My wife said I had issues. I told her no dear, issues would have been if I used 3000 grit instead of 1500 after removing the dents and making the cup round again.




 
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