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De-stinking Penelope

Too funny on the petcock Dale...And Pete, the "mess" on the frame was all over the seat and tank. I had wiped a good bit of it off the tank the morning Dale was on his way to get it. It was a sight thats for sure.
 
Thanks Greg! Just what I needed to hear. :(

Tried the swing arm 'cheater' slide hammer trick on the rotor, but so far now luck a getting it to come off.
 
Hey your was together,mines was mostly in bits I didn't take apart.Getting the carbs back together looks like it might be very very interesting.^o
 
Dale...its a 14MM X 1.25 pitch i believe..If you get a hardened one and turn it all the way in till it presses against the crank and then tighten it real good. Then smack the end of the bolt a bit..the vibrations help loosen it from the end of the crank. Then do the slide hammer if it doesnt loosen itself off.
 
chuck hahn said:
Too funny on the petcock Dale...And Pete, the "mess" on the frame was all over the seat and tank. I had wiped a good bit of it off the tank the morning Dale was on his way to get it. It was a sight thats for sure.
Click to expand...

Ugh I see... horrid! However I have confidence Dale can make it all shiny and new :D

rustybronco said:
Thanks Greg! Just what I needed to hear. :(

Tried the swing arm 'cheater' slide hammer trick on the rotor, but so far now luck a getting it to come off.
Click to expand...

Dale, please be careful! That's how I did some serious damage to my thumb, that exact same method.

If you want a reminder, I have a photo... :eek:
 
chuck hahn said:
Dale...its a 14MM X 1.25 pitch i believe..If you get a hardened one and turn it all the way in till it presses against the crank and then tighten it real good.
Click to expand...
Chuck, If it had a blind hole I would have just put a socket in it and tightened the swing arm bolt against it. Unfortunately the hole goes all the way through the crankshaft. I need to get a tap so I can fix the top thread that got slightly damaged when I put a 1/4" extension in the hole in order to give the swing arm bolt something to press against.

I brought the rotor retaining bolt and my dial calipers so I can order a tap to clean up the threads. Thanks for the size, it should help.
 
The valve cover is packaged and will be shippied out this morning. Could be a 16 MM too but if you had to rethread id you could make it whatever is conveinent.
 
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Im not understanding...so whats that big belled thing do? Just take a bolt and weld a few big nuts that will fit thru the rotor hole on the end and screw it in. Maybe a bit of heat on the crank end and give it a few smacks and then re torque it..should just pop off the end of the crank.

EDIT...Or weld the nuts on and grind the flats off so they will fit thru..AND you can fill in the center of the bolts to make a nice flat end to press against the crank.
 
chuck hahn said:
Im not understanding...so whats that big belled thing do?
Click to expand...
It threads onto the outside of the flywheel (rotor's) hub, instead of grabbing the inside threads of the flywheel.

like this...

DSC03583.jpg
 
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My project took a turn for the worse...

Needs a crankshaft and possibly more after I split the cases.

IMG_2660.jpg



IMG_2658.jpg
 
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Ouch indeed, man, that is disapointing. :(
Dale, I don't believe a good second hand crank will put you out too much, these things are generally bullet proof, as you know, and demand for cranks is very low, I doubt they command any sort of premium price, usually you can't give them away, as they so seldom fail.
Or being the resourceful fellow you are, you may have a friend of a friend who is very friendly at an engineering shop who can weld it up and grind it down for you.
Not sure what the cheaper option will be.
 
Flyboy, I look at it as nothing more than a minor setback. Hopefully the rest of the internals are ok, although off hand it felt like there was a little more play in the trans than I'd care for.

As someone once said, to measure is to know and this weekend I'll be a measuring.
 
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