J
jlso75
Guest
I put the key in, everything normal. I hit the starter, everything went dead. The battery checks OK. When I turn the key on , the re is a drain on the battery. the voltage goes from 11.5 to almost nothing.
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jlso,
It could be a faulty starter relay. Mine whet bad and even caused a short in the whole system. So, not only would my starter not work, I would be riding along and the whole bike would cut out intermittently at speed. Finally, I turned the key on got nothing.
Remove the starter and disconnect the big wire lead that goes to the + side of the battery. Turn on your ignition again and see if you've got 12V. If so, replace that relay.
There are several threads on replacing your starter relay with a briggs and straton lawnmower relay from Home Depot or Lowes. Costs about $12-15. This is compared to the $40 or so you will get hit up for at the dealer.
-Jon
PS. Check the fuses too!
It could be a faulty starter relay. Mine whet bad and even caused a short in the whole system. So, not only would my starter not work, I would be riding along and the whole bike would cut out intermittently at speed. Finally, I turned the key on got nothing.
Remove the starter and disconnect the big wire lead that goes to the + side of the battery. Turn on your ignition again and see if you've got 12V. If so, replace that relay.
There are several threads on replacing your starter relay with a briggs and straton lawnmower relay from Home Depot or Lowes. Costs about $12-15. This is compared to the $40 or so you will get hit up for at the dealer.
-Jon
PS. Check the fuses too!
D
DaveDanger
Guest
make a quick check before you go anywhere and buy parts. If you have a voltmeter, perform 2 quick tests.
Check your battery voltage while hitting the starter button two different ways...
first, with the meter probes directly on the battery posts, not on the cables or connectors.
secondly, with the meter probes directly on the cables or connectors.
if you lose voltage when you're on the posts directly, I'd suspect the battery itself, or at least its state of charge.
if you lose voltage only when you're on the cables or terminals, make sure your connection is good at the posts.
You said that the battery checks good, but if it's simply showing good voltage while no load is on it, that's not really telling you very much. A good battery check will show you that it holds good voltage while under a load, typically starter load. This is true for most any type of vehicle. A shop will generally have a piece of equipment that will hook up to the posts of a battery, and will allow the technician to crank up a knob and place an amperage load on the battery that roughly equals the load the starter would place on it. ANY "12 volt" battery should be capable of holding 9.6 volts under starter load for at least 8 seconds. If the battery isn't capable of that load support, it's not long for this world or is already gone. The 2nd benefit of having the shop load tester available is that it eliminates the starter or wiring from the equation. If your starter is fried and grounded internally, it can short the entire voltage capacity of your battery to ground and make that load test look like the battery is no good. Without the shop tester, jumping from a known good battery should tell you something as well... if the known good battery also won't turn the starter over, I'd suspect the starter and/or wiring first.
Check your battery voltage while hitting the starter button two different ways...
first, with the meter probes directly on the battery posts, not on the cables or connectors.
secondly, with the meter probes directly on the cables or connectors.
if you lose voltage when you're on the posts directly, I'd suspect the battery itself, or at least its state of charge.
if you lose voltage only when you're on the cables or terminals, make sure your connection is good at the posts.
You said that the battery checks good, but if it's simply showing good voltage while no load is on it, that's not really telling you very much. A good battery check will show you that it holds good voltage while under a load, typically starter load. This is true for most any type of vehicle. A shop will generally have a piece of equipment that will hook up to the posts of a battery, and will allow the technician to crank up a knob and place an amperage load on the battery that roughly equals the load the starter would place on it. ANY "12 volt" battery should be capable of holding 9.6 volts under starter load for at least 8 seconds. If the battery isn't capable of that load support, it's not long for this world or is already gone. The 2nd benefit of having the shop load tester available is that it eliminates the starter or wiring from the equation. If your starter is fried and grounded internally, it can short the entire voltage capacity of your battery to ground and make that load test look like the battery is no good. Without the shop tester, jumping from a known good battery should tell you something as well... if the known good battery also won't turn the starter over, I'd suspect the starter and/or wiring first.
B
Boondocks
Guest
Re: dead ignition.
A reading of 11.5 volts with the ignition turned off indicates a completely discharged (dead) battery. Try charging the battery and let it sit for about 8 hours after charging (to remove the surface charge). Check the voltage again with a digital multimeter. A 100% charged flooded lead-acid battery should read about 12.65V, 75% charged about 12.45V, 50% charged about 12.24V. 25% charged about 12.06V. Below 11.89V is completely discharged.
Sulphation will cause a battery to lose charge capacity over time, until it will not longer hold a charge. If your battery won't hold a charge at a high level, it's best to buy a new one.
jlso75 said:
A reading of 11.5 volts with the ignition turned off indicates a completely discharged (dead) battery. Try charging the battery and let it sit for about 8 hours after charging (to remove the surface charge). Check the voltage again with a digital multimeter. A 100% charged flooded lead-acid battery should read about 12.65V, 75% charged about 12.45V, 50% charged about 12.24V. 25% charged about 12.06V. Below 11.89V is completely discharged.
Sulphation will cause a battery to lose charge capacity over time, until it will not longer hold a charge. If your battery won't hold a charge at a high level, it's best to buy a new one.
B
Boondocks
Guest
Re: dead ignition.
Hi, Earl.
A sealed AGM (absorbed glass mat) battery will show about 12.8-12.9V when fully charged, but the old style flooded cell will be close to 12.65V when fully charged after the surface charge is removed. This is the standard of the BCI (Battery Council International). If a battery is tested with a digital meter immediately after charging, it may read 13V or more. However, the surface charge must be removed before an accurate reading can be taken. That's the reason for waiting 4-8 hours before testing.
See Charging the Lead-Acid Battery for reference.
I know, I know - picky, picky, picky. :lol:
I always enjoy reading your posts.
earlfor said:
Hi, Earl.
A sealed AGM (absorbed glass mat) battery will show about 12.8-12.9V when fully charged, but the old style flooded cell will be close to 12.65V when fully charged after the surface charge is removed. This is the standard of the BCI (Battery Council International). If a battery is tested with a digital meter immediately after charging, it may read 13V or more. However, the surface charge must be removed before an accurate reading can be taken. That's the reason for waiting 4-8 hours before testing.
See Charging the Lead-Acid Battery for reference.
I know, I know - picky, picky, picky. :lol:
I always enjoy reading your posts.
Re: dead ignition.
I have both types of batteries (in two bikes) Youre right, normal charged condition in service is usually between 12.6 and 12.8 for them. At least thats what I get anytime I check the battery. Both will come up after charging to about 13 volts. I believe it averages out. If you check the battery fresh off the charger and it shows around 13 volts, it will likely come to "rest" in the range you said. Yeah, its a "corner cutting" way of checking. LOL
At 11.5 volts, there isnt enough capacity left to burn a chicken feather, much less energize a starter. eh eh
Earl
I have both types of batteries (in two bikes) Youre right, normal charged condition in service is usually between 12.6 and 12.8 for them. At least thats what I get anytime I check the battery. Both will come up after charging to about 13 volts. I believe it averages out. If you check the battery fresh off the charger and it shows around 13 volts, it will likely come to "rest" in the range you said. Yeah, its a "corner cutting" way of checking. LOL
At 11.5 volts, there isnt enough capacity left to burn a chicken feather, much less energize a starter. eh eh
Earl
Boondocks said:Hi, Earl.
A sealed AGM (absorbed glass mat) battery will show about 12.8-12.9V when fully charged, but the old style flooded cell will be close to 12.65V when fully charged after the surface charge is removed. This is the standard of the BCI (Battery Council International). If a battery is tested with a digital meter immediately after charging, it may read 13V or more. However, the surface charge must be removed before an accurate reading can be taken. That's the reason for waiting 4-8 hours before testing.
See Charging the Lead-Acid Battery for reference.
I know, I know - picky, picky, picky. :lol:
I always enjoy reading your post
s.
