Dead stators wanted

[koolaid_kid]

I need a couple of dead stators, please. I will pay any shipping charges in the continental US (should be the USPS $4.95 package). I would prefer 1000-1100 stators, but would not object to other versions. I prefer complete units, wires, grommet and all.
Just PM your Paypal address.
Thanks in advance.

 

[malibuman]

what are you doing with them?

 

[koolaid_kid]

what are you doing with them?

LOL! I have to admit, this is not the first response I expected. :lol:
Why do you ask?

 

[kirkn]

"I need dead stators"

"Really? Why?"

"Funny - why do you want to know why I want them?


What is this, a Three Stooges routine?

He wants to know why for the same reason I had - it's not a normal thing for someone to request dead parts and even offer to PAY for 'em. Are you planning to rewind one? Are you planning some other interesting science project? C'mon, man, SHARE these little secrets with us...

 

[koolaid_kid]

Except for your attempt at comedy, your response is more reasonable. When someone I have not seen before, with such a low post count, asks me a question such as that, I have to wonder. Are they sitting on a stash of burned out stators and looking to make a profit? Do they have a source that I should be aware of? IDK, I was not able to tell from such a terse response.

This was my first response:
If there are enough, I will put them end-to-end and we will finally have the answer of "How many dead stators does it take to circle the world".
Put lights in them and decorate the oak tree in my front yard
Tie them around dead bodies and sink them in the White River
Use them as play toys for my Siamese cat
Build a ballast for my speedboat

In actuality, those who visit this section regularly are aware that I have attempted to rewind stators. I have not been completely pleased with the results up to this point. I would like a couple more so I can hone my craft and at least wind a couple I will be pleased with. I would also like to have a spare for my GS and perhaps another GS, since my experience in the last year or two rallies has shown that they go out on rallies and someone is left on the side of the road. It is always nice when someone else at the rally pulls a stator out of their hat.
I am also experimenting with putting larger gauge wires from the stator to the R/R, 16 gauge vs. the factory 18 gauge. I have also found a source for the rubber grommet. If you google "stator grommet" you will see this has been a sticking point for years for many brands of bikes.

I offered to pay postage, which I feel is reasonable. I would not expect to ask someone to ship me a dead stator and them pay for it also.

I hope this clarifies things for the curious.

 

[Larry D]

I kinda figured you wanted to practice your new found stator re-winding skills.......

 

[koolaid_kid]

I kinda figured you wanted to practice your new found stator re-winding skills.......

Well, I gotta tell you Larry, at this point I would not call it a "skill". Diversion might be a better word for now.

 

[kirkn]

My ATTEMPT at comedy...

Those who visit REGULARLY are aware...

Sheesh - lighten up, already.






All that aside, it sounds like a very interesting effort. And, for a particulary noble reason - helping out stranded riders. Good work!

I've rewound one stator, but it was from a '71 Honda SL100 motor. Converted the bike from 6 volts to 12. It was / is a single-phase type winding, rather than the three phase setup the GSs are. The Honda 100/125 singles of that era had two windings - one for 'daytime' running and one for 'nighttime' running whose output was added in when the lights were switched on. The 'daytime' windings used 22 gauge wire. The 'nighttime' windings used 18 gauge wire. My rewind consolidated the core into one continuous circuit, using 18 gauge wire.

Interesting re: the wire gauge consideration. My understanding is larger gauge wire gives you the potential for greater current flow (less resistance), but at the expense of less "wraps" around each stator pole, and the number of wraps per pole also determine overall output - more wraps = more turns of conductor cut by the passing magnet each time. An excellent test - will the lower resistance be offset by the lower number of wraps?

Now you've got me curious. I'll have to go back and search on your previous efforts.

Kirk

 

[koolaid_kid]

My ATTEMPT at comedy...

Those who visit REGULARLY are aware...

Sheesh - lighten up, already.

This is what I should have posted "Except for your attempt at comedy, your response is more reasonable. " The wink was implied, but should have been included instead.

Yeah, if you lurked around here more you would see that my main interest is our electrical system, kind of a byproduct of being an electrical engineer. At the Red River Rally this year, I sat down and discussed it with several members, eventually coming up with the path I am current plodding down.

AFA wire gauge, there are 3 tradeoffs. The first and foremost for the home rewinder is just getting the blinking wire wrapped tightly. Nerobro's stator rewinding thread (down further in this area) got me started. IIRC, he started out with 16 gauge wire and found it too stiff to wind properly. He ended up with 18 gauge, which is what I have also. If I had it to do over, I would probably have selected 19 gauge.

This is a quote from "Rewinding you own Stator" from Matchless's web site, pointed to by BassCliff's website:　
"The heavier the wire, the less turns you will get on a pole, but gives slightly more current at lower RPM's and lower AC voltage at high RPM's (about 65V) at no load, but will thus only give enough useful current at higher RPM's. Thinner wire allows more turns, thus higher AC voltage (about 80-100V) at high RPM's and at lower RPMs with no load but slightly less current, but then gives more useful current at lower RPM?s. "

If you really want to dig into things, go to those two places. You will get enough info from them to figure it all out, which is what I did.

 

[Dogma]

I still have the stator that shorted at RRR. 31401-49010, fits 78-80 1000-1100 engines. I don't think that will do your '83 any good.

 

[SVSooke]

You have got me thinking,got a couple of 750 stators in holed covers.May take them off and give this rewiring stuff a try.Friend of mine says he know where to get the wire locally.Hmmmmmm.....

 

[kirkn]

So, then, if you're going with the same gauge as OEM (18), why were you less than happy with your results? Just overall finished product? Or, did it not perform as well as you wanted?

Kirk

 

[koolaid_kid]

According to Babbittsonline, I need part # 31401-49310, which they claim to only fit "E" model 1100s. However, I am positive that the crispied stator from the 84 1100GK works, because it is currently (no pun intended) powering my bike. IDK, it is a bit confusing at times.

 

[koolaid_kid]

So, then, if you're going with the same gauge as OEM (18), why were you less than happy with your results? Just overall finished product? Or, did it not perform as well as you wanted?

Kirk

Just the appearance of the finished product. They are fugly. And the 18 gauge wire is still a bit stiff. But the one on my bike at this time performs flawlessly.

 

[koolaid_kid]

You have got me thinking,got a couple of 750 stators in holed covers.May take them off and give this rewiring stuff a try.Friend of mine says he know where to get the wire locally.Hmmmmmm.....

Read Nerobro's thread several times, then download and read Matchless' pdf document. And I suggest purchasing a bit more wire than you think you need, just in case of do-overs.

 

[SVSooke]

Going to do some more research on it before I do anything.Did a quick scan of Nerobro's thread.Will take a way better look before doing anything.Seen that PDF to and will download it to.Tend to get more than I think I need cause I will mess it up.

 

[rustybronco]

I am also experimenting with putting larger gauge wires on the stators, 16 gauge vs. the factory 18 gauge.

I hope this clarifies things for the curious.

Koolaid_Kid,

personally I think rewinding with 16 gauge wire is not a good idea and I'll tell you why. with the increase of current output from the larger wire diameter will also come the additional heat put on the stator when the R/R shunts the current back to the stator. given the insulation on the wire should be around the same thickness for both 16Ga and 18Ga wire, the additional heat given off by the stator may break down the insulation quicker and the resultant increase of the windings shorting out sooner than would be if one used the factory spec'd wire gauge.

so, what is your opinion of this, am I all wet on my thinking?

 

[koolaid_kid]

I still have the stator that shorted at RRR. 31401-49010, fits 78-80 1000-1100 engines. I don't think that will do your '83 any good.

If you don't want it I will pay to ship it to me. It covers a fair range of big bikes pre-1981.

 

[koolaid_kid]

Koolaid_Kid,

personally I think rewinding with 16 gauge wire is not a good idea and I'll tell you why. with the increase of current output from the larger wire diameter will also come the additional heat put on the stator when the R/R shunts the current back to the stator. given the insulation on the wire should be around the same thickness for both 16Ga and 18Ga wire, the additional heat given off by the stator may break down the insulation quicker and the resultant increase of the windings shorting out sooner than would be if one used the factory spec'd wire gauge.

so, what is your opinion of this, am I all wet on my thinking?

Well, I misworded that! I'll have to go back and change that immediately. what I intended to say was that I am putting 16 gauge wire from the stator to the R/R, where the factory used 18 gauge wire. Geez, my bad.
Fixed. Thanks for pointing that out, I am usually more careful than that.

 

[rustybronco]

Mis-wording, I'm the king of that! I find it hard to put my thoughts on paper correctly.

additional comments... a 16Ga re-wired stator with a compufire R/R; now that would be cool!