Depinning fuse box connector

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I’d really like to know how to depin this connector (remove the terminals from the block). I’ve been looking at this connector for 15 years. I got it like this. The crimp is terrible a and only about half of the strands are actually making contact on the top right red terminal where the block is broken. I’ve improvised a tool and did a little digging with it but can’t seem to release any terminals. What’s the trick? Someone has to have done this.

The connection works but I’d like to (at least) pull the terminal, snip the wire and recrimp/solder on a new terminal.

At best, ideally, I’d like to depin the whole plug, replace any other terminals that are iffy, replace the plug like new. Did a little looking on vintageconnections.com but I don’t know if I can even get this plug.

 

[salty_monk]

Your tool looks about right... There is a small tag that is like a barb you have to push out of the way. It takes a bit of force.

 

[Grimly]

I usually find the smallest one in the commonly available set of jewellers' screwdrivers will fit down the side. The cheap ones are no good because they don't have the strength, but older good quality ones are fine.

 

[posplayr]

The biggest problem is you appeared to ave smeared dielectric grease over the top of filthy connections. Even if you remove those pins it will do nothing unless the thing is chemically cleaned.

you could be done in 20 minutes or you can run down a rabbit hole.

 

[Big T]

It's pretty easy to depin
Push the wire into the connector
Slide the tool in
Pull the wire out

You need to be sure the tool is in deep enough and is not wedging the female end against the connector

I just used a piece of stiff plastic

Order a new connector from Vintage Connections

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

The biggest problem is you appeared to ave smeared dielectric grease over the top of filthy connections. Even if you remove those pins it will do nothing unless the thing is chemically cleaned.

you could be done in 20 minutes or you can run down a rabbit hole.

Guilty, before you taught me better. I did smear dialectric grease in there. Attempting to atone for my sins.

I just can't seem to get the tang that's keeping the terminal in. I'll keep playing.

Can anyone point out, with circles and arrows, if necessary, exactly where to push tool in, and do I go in from the same side the wire goes in, or the open end? I've seen videos showing both, depending on the position of retaining tab/type of block, but haven't seen one exactly like this.

Thanks All.

 

[posplayr]

There is usually a flat portion of the contact stamped (cut) between the crimp and the portion that actually engage the other side of the contact. In this picture you can see the barb hanging down. This is not the same type but works almost the same. Once pushed in from the wire side, the barb gets caught on a ledge that prevents the pin from being pushed back out.

https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-60620-1.html?te_bu=Cor&te_type=srch&te_campaign=ggl_usa_cor-ggl-usa-srch-selectmktg-fy20-google-feed_sma-1193_5&elqCampaignId=83716&mkwid=28StOYoW%7Cpcrid%7C386964346943%7Cpkw%7C%7Cpmt%7C%7Cpdv%7Cc%7Cslid%7C%7Cproductid%7C60620-1%7Cpgrid%7C78782457763%7Cptaid%7Cpla-891875182048%7C&utm_content=28StOYoW%7Cpcrid%7C386964346943%7Cpkw%7C%7Cpmt%7C%7Cpdv%7Cc%7Cslid%7C%7Cproductid%7C60620-1%7Cpgrid%7C78782457763%7Cptaid%7Cpla-891875182048&gclid=CjwKCAjwztL2BRATEiwAvnALch88eEQfTOe8IhKDc2a4DzeIAWAFYHRLlKbO59J0y0ayawe39Ve0ChoCiQcQAvD_BwE

That wire that you think has been pulled out has nothing to do with the electrical flow of current. That is the strain relief. Zip tie all the wires together and you will have compensated for that.

Use some naval jelly for 10 minutes, wash it out spray some deoxit and then coat in dielectric grease and you are done.

The path you are on you will probably permanently damage what you have left of a functioning connector and decide you need a new harness.

 

[posplayr]

This is a picture of a latching connector pin, but it is not obvious where the barb hook is.


http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/51

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Use some naval jelly for 10 minutes, wash it out spray some deoxit and then coat in dielectric grease and you are done.

The path you are on you will probably permanently damage what you have left of a functioning connector and decide you need a new harness.

Will pick up some naval jelly tomorrow, clean it up and plug it back in. Thanks Jim, et al.

 

[Big T]

Look at your third photo
Those little slots over every wire end is where the tool slides in

 

[posplayr]

Will pick up some naval jelly tomorrow, clean it up and plug it back in. Thanks Jim, et al.

No more than about 10 minutes and flush it out with water. If you leave it too long it will leave a thick film.

Most of the resistance inside of the crimps.

 

[2BRacing]

........Can anyone point out, with circles and arrows, if necessary, exactly where to push tool in, and do I go in from the same side the wire goes in, or the open end? ........

You go in from the open end, as shown by the red marks on the photo. In post #5 Big T got the procedure spot on: first push the wire into the connector slightly to free up the latching pin; then insert the thin removal tool deep enough into the small slot to push the latching pin down; then pull on the wire to remove the terminal. If the terminal does not release easily, twist the removal tool slightly so that the latching pin is pushed down further.

Before you re-insert the terminals into the (preferably new) connector, bend the now pressed flat latching pin up again so that it will engage firmly in the connector.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

That’s what I was looking for. Thanks 2B

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

So I took a little of everyone’s advice and think I did pretty good.

Once I got my tool working in the right place and got the first pin out the rest followed easily.

Cleaned off all the dialectic grease, applied the naval jelly and waited 10 minutes.

Used my improvised tool to open up the crimp on the bad one.

Washed everything with water and sprayed with Deoxit.

I clipped a fresh end and recrimped the bad one, tightened up all the female ends, plugged everything back in. Good for now. Happy with what I did.

On the re-crimped terminal: I don’t know why, just as an experiment, I tinned the wire before crimping, then heated the terminal to flow the solder after crimping. Not my greatest idea. No idea what I’m doing with solder. The factory connections are just crimped. I did use a cheap “W” crimper I bought a while ago. I need to learn how to solder if I’m going to do any more. Get a decent iron, the right solder and flux. Using a gun I really am not knowledgeable enough to really use. I did successfully reattach a new screen on a Garmin with it once. More luck than skill.

While I’m pleased with the work I did, I have ordered what I think is the right block from Vintage Connections, as well as the right pin removal tool, and bunch of male and female bullet connectors to practice on, and their crimp tool. So when I think I’m good enough with it, I’ll tackle replacing the block with new female connectors in it.

While I was on a shopping spree, I bought the Triumph RR connector For my SH775. The one I installed 2 years ago is the type that comes in pieces and you make all the connections yourself.

Since I recently took the time to rebuild the top end of my engine, strip the bike and paint the frame, I’m getting picky about wiring and other things too.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[Baatfam]

I tin and solder crimped connectors all the time. Good idea.

 

[Steve]

Done properly, crimping and soldering is a great "belt and braces" situation. However, it is so easy to NOT do it properly, it is usually better to just do a proper crimp job. The tool you got from Vintage Connections is a great one, I use it all the time. In fact, I am about to get a second one, so I don't have to keep changing the dies.

The usual problem with an improperly-soldered connector is that there is too much heat and too much solder applied, which runs up the length of the wire, stiffening the wire and creating a stress point well beyond the connector.

.

 

[posplayr]

Done properly, crimping and soldering is a great "belt and braces" situation. However, it is so easy to NOT do it properly, it is usually better to just do a proper crimp job. The tool you got from Vintage Connections is a great one, I use it all the time. In fact, I am about to get a second one, so I don't have to keep changing the dies.

The usual problem with an improperly-soldered connector is that there is too much heat and too much solder applied, which runs up the length of the wire, stiffening the wire and creating a stress point well beyond the connector.

.

Steve is correct it is both easy to screw up the soldering and easy to get it correct.

Excess heat is typically required when you have dirty contacts so make sure they are clean ()Naval jelly and Doxit is great for that).

Also this is a heat sink that is used to stop the solder from running up the wire. There is also clear liquid (like water) flux that will run right into a dirty crimp. Also with the heat sink you can solder from the contact end (warming the contact) and very little solder will travel up the wire.

We are also talking about fine solder (for example 0.025").

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Leaded-Solder-Diameter/dp/B073VRYQVT

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008QPT8R2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.alliedelec.com/product/...4TKHL15uqcLezek-RaYaAvSSEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...g-Electrical-Connenctions&highlight=Corrosion

https://www.alliedelec.com/product/...4TKHL15uqcLezek-RaYaAvSSEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Bob, Steve, Jim, all thanks. This is the stuff I need to know. I’ve started another thread on soldering and getting started with it, learning and practicing.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Jim, in all the useful info you linked, I have a question about the heat sink clamp. (I'm sure they'll be more questions)

Would you clamp the heat sink here where the left arrow is in front of the insulation, and that would stop the solder from flowing up past it into the insulation? Assuming one has managed to properly tin the bare wires properly before crimping?

 

[posplayr]

For some reason the picture upload is not working. I included a Dropbox link below.

I would typically clamp on top of the strain relief (the band covering the red insulation).

I would put a single drop of liquid flux as shown right at the end of the crimped contact so it can flow up into the crimp and cover the end of the wire.

A small blob of solder at the end of the wire is excellent strain relief and keeps the wire from being pulled out of the crimp. I don't really mean a blob because that implies a cold joint. Just touch the end of your solder wire and it will melt and flow into the crimp. Don't keep feeding it as it will try and flow up into the wire and make it stiff and subject to work hardening. One small drop of solder does a good enough job to block out corrosion in the crimp and not is not enough to flow all the way back up the wire.

Even for an old crimp, a single drop of liquid flux and all it takes is about 2-3 sec of heating and touch a fine piece of solder and you are done. If it blobs up (like a water drop on a waxed car) it is too cold/too dirty.

The fine tipped (semi flat) soldering tip would be on the flat of the contact or right at the cut end of the wire.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0rnvodb79fzlyz2/Soldering2.jpg?dl=0

You don't have to do this on all connectors, it is really only important for charging between R/R and Battery (loss of 0.5-1 V ). Keeping contact clean between fuse box and ignition switch is also good as significant drops (1-2 V) in the ignition switch can have high voltage drops.

Other areas might be a stock headlamp connector that draws 5 amps. Those connectors can get hot which promotes corrosion promoting more heat and it is a vicious cycle.