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Do I have the correct rectifier?

Vmass

Vmass

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
I just received what is suppose to be an NOS rectifier from a well known Ebay seller.

Apperently the one I purchased was lost in the mail. As my luck would have it, he had another one.

The one I received has the following on the back: TS10TR1S-L followed by C2Y

Does anyone know if this is correct for a 1980 GS1000S?

Thank You
 
Can you take pic? or measure it? Except for connections, lots of R/R's would work. But I'm partial to the used Shindengen units- they seem durable and cheap.
 
A few pics, looks similar to the one on bike. I have not had a chance to match up th ewiring.








DSC02379.jpg
DSC02380.jpg

DSC02379.jpg


DSC02381.jpg
 
Vmass said:
So, do I have an R or an R//R and is this the correct one?
Click to expand...
You should have got a Shindengen so we don't have to guess! OK, I'll say it's a combo unit- I haven't been wrong yet today and it's still early.
 
tom203 said:
You should have got a Shindengen so we don't have to guess! OK, I'll say it's a combo unit- I haven't been wrong yet today and it's still early.
Click to expand...




I was hoping someone would know, given the numbers on the unit.
 
From everything I've found and the wire colours shown, that is a Suzuki R/R. what I can't tell you is it's the correct unit for the exact model you have. Will it work? I'm almost 99.99% positive it will.
 
rustybronco said:
From everything I've found and the wire colours shown, that is a Suzuki R/R. what I can't tell you is it's the correct unit for the exact model you have. Will it work? I'm almost 99.99% positive it will.
Click to expand...

Well that sounds promising:D I hope to get some time this weekend to play around with the bike a bit.

If the wire colors match... I will be good to go!!
 
rustybronco said:
I'm going with it's the correct one. P/N 32800-49X50 (the correct P/N for yours per catalogue) supersedes P/N's 32800-45210 32800-49310 32800-49140

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-GS10...Parts_Accessories&hash=item35bb12c4d5&vxp=mtr

Next question? :)
Click to expand...

That looks very close....thanks.

That's very presumptive of you " Next question ? :)"

Hey, since I have your attention.....the red and yellow wire are a match, the striped wires are a diferent color......no worries?
 
Vmass said:
That looks very close....thanks.

That's very presumptive of you " Next question ? :)"

Hey, since I have your attention.....the red and yellow wire are a match, the striped wires are a diferent color......no worries?
Click to expand...
Are you referring to the colours on your bike compared to the new R/R one you bought? If so, treat the yellow, white/red and white/blue as being all yellow just like the Honda R/R's and wire them up to your three stator wires whatever colour they might happen to be.

Vmass said:
That looks very close....thanks.
Click to expand...
Looks exact...
 
Did I read correctly that I should connect the new R/R ground directly to the negative battery terminal?
 
Vmass said:
Did I read correctly that I should connect the new R/R ground directly to the negative battery terminal?
Click to expand...
Absolutely- extend a wire from that ground lug to battery negative. Don't forget to test this baby before you ride off!
 
Vmass said:
Did I read correctly that I should connect the new R/R ground directly to the negative battery terminal?
Click to expand...
Just to clarify: Connect the ground wire ring terminal (b/w) to one of your mounting bolts, then run a wire from that mounting bolt to the negative terminal on your battery. Many also run all their grounds to that mounting bolt also, so they all are connected semi-directly to the battery negative terminal.
 
I replaced the stator with Rick's, lead length was longer before the grommet. No big deal just have to do an extra loop inside the stator case.

I also replaced the R/R, wires on old one were a little melted. And finally, I replace the solonoid. Someone had replaced it with an incorrect/different than stock which had an additional wire going directly to the negative battery terminal. Should I add that back in with the new solenoid?

Will test it all the next time I get a chance, ran out of time today.
 
What do you mean by doing an extra loop inside the stator cover? That rotor has to have a specific amount of clearance around the stator to generate the right current, wrapping the wire bundle around it is going to cause you problems. Better to run it like it's supposed to and just cut the ends off at the R/R when you replace the connectors.

Or am I reading this wrong?
 
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