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Does this sound normal?

  • Thread starter Thread starter poorgradstudent
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poorgradstudent

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hw0IVVV2tIY&feature=youtu.be


Here's a short video of my 1980 GS1000G. I took it right after riding around for a bit so the bike is nice and warm, idling around 1000 RPM.

I feel like at anything below 1100 RPM there is a distinct rattle in the engine. This sound goes away when throttling above 1100.

I changed the oil recently and everything looked clean. No metal flakes, nothing like that.

I'm still making my way through the tune-up and will pull the carbs again shortly. I'm just curious as to whether or not this is a noise I should be overly concerned about (potential bearing failure, etc.).

Thanks!
 
The bike should be idling at 1100-1200 not 1000 RPM, also if you installed the header it appears that you are a little on the lean side with the bluing of the pipes. To me it sounds like a Suzuki inline idling to low.
 
it appears that you are a little on the lean side with the bluing of the pipes.

I hate to sound ignorant but are you saying the fuel/air mixture is off and the bike is running to hot?

So it all goes back to the improper carb tune-up?
 
So it all goes back to the improper carb tune-up?
Possibly, but not necessarily.

There definitely is a tick in there and it seemed more noticeable as you moved to the front of the engine. I'd almost go as far as to say the exhaust cam valve train but it could be rattley pipes too. Try tightening down the headers again then up the idle as suggested.

Have you tried a stethoscope? Most auto stores carry them and they are not too expensive. Unlike one for humans, the auto type have a metal probe at the end which you touch to the engine. It will transfer a clearer picture of where the noise is coming from. Cheaper yet, you can use a long handled screw driver or even a piece of coat hanger wire or steel rod.

Let us know what you find.
 
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It's an air cooled motor, some noise is normal. Just make sure the valves are adjusted and the carbs are synced. Turn the mixture screw out 2 1/2 to 3 turns
 
Just had similar issues with mine. Open the oil filler cap when it is idling:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dpmshlOODKM

This is most probably cam chain rattle which requires a tensioner overhaul (see BassCliff site).

Also sounds like carbs out of balance like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-iHNyp1Lss

listen to the sound of the engine before and after synching.

Also see here: GS1100G Blog Road Runner

Another possibility I am looking at (if cam chain tensionser overhaul does not work) is clutch backing plate spring rattle. Tons of threads about clutch rattle on here.

Greetings
 
Wow! Thanks guys!


I called my grandpa and he reminded me that the chain tensioner did need adjusting. He told me there was a sound to look out for but I had no idea what he was talking about at the time.

I'll investigate further and report back.
 
Wow! Thanks guys!


I called my grandpa and he reminded me that the chain tensioner did need adjusting. He told me there was a sound to look out for but I had no idea what he was talking about at the time.

I'll investigate further and report back.
These bikes have automatic cam chain tensioners.
 
Sounds like my 1000G when the idle is to low, set the idle proper and sync the carbs it will be fine
 
Very hard to tell from a video. Post a location, there are probably some forum members in your area that could help you figure it out.
Does the noise change at all with the clutch pulled in?
 
Very hard to tell from a video. Post a location, there are probably some forum members in your area that could help you figure it out.
Does the noise change at all with the clutch pulled in?


Over in Raleigh NC. I think there are a few near-around but you guys have given me more than enough info to get started.

Now I just need a spare 5 minutes to do some work.
 
I think your bike is buggered..best you can do is sell it to one of us. :D
 
This reminds me of the time Richard Christy called a mechanic on the phone and played sounds of his runny poop.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdW6R_sWwtk

smiley-laugh-point-up-yellow.gif
 
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I went looking for the cam chain tensioner overhaul guide on the basscliff site and was wondering if I found the right guides...

Can someone confirm?

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/engine_odds-n-ends.html#A05

http://bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html


Also, it appears that there is some sort of seal pictured in step 8 of the bwringer guide; should I (hell, can I?) order this along with the new spring, oring and gasket?


I absolutely have to fix this before anymore riding. I was in traffic today and as I was thinking to myself "damn the bike is idling great right n..." I hear this horrible metal-on-metal grinding noise!

I immediately dropped it in 1st and pulled off the road and the sound went away almost instantly. I didn't hear again but by the time I got home it was idling slightly erratic (back and forth slowly between 1 and 2k rpm).

And when I turned it off the engine was piping hot.

I gotta fix this...
 
http://bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html


Also, it appears that there is some sort of seal pictured in step 8 of the bwringer guide; should I (hell, can I?) order this along with the new spring, oring and gasket?

yes, of course. (this is the usual 'leaky' culprit/ or the o-ring on set screw)
"Oil seal, Suzuki Part No. 09284-10006. I was in a hurry (long story...), so I located the same size oil seal (10mm ID, 16mm OD, 4mm thick) from an local industrial supply house. This was VERY hard to find, so don't count on it unless you live in a large city."

but as chef pointed out ... unless leaking, they don't normally fail per se ... unless there's 'burrs' or whatever, preventing the shaft from sliding all the way forward (you'll be able to tell when apart)
Tis' an easy overhaul with the awesome instructions provided ... and certainly can't do any harm.
Good for the process of elimination!
 
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