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Doh! Lost my high beam and turn signals!

  • Thread starter Thread starter J_C
  • Start date Start date
J

J_C

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So I have another thread running right now about grounding... I'm installing some new horns. I have an inline fuse straight from the battery to a relay, old horn wires into the relay, and a new wire running up to the horns.

I tried activating the new horns, then didn't work. I tried the turn signals, and THEY no longer worked, neither did the high beam. Did I blow a fuse or something? The regular headlight still functions.

Sincerest thanks for any advice on what I may have done wrong, and what I need to do to fix the problems. I know a lot of new things are a learning experience, but I tend to turn them into disasters :oops:
 
I believe the horn is the only accessory on the bike that is switched on the negative side. When the ignition is on, the horn is normally supplied with 12v+ power. Pressing the horn button completes ground and the horn honks. Maybe this will help.

Earl

J_C said:
So I have another thread running right now about grounding... I'm installing some new horns. I have an inline fuse straight from the battery to a relay, old horn wires into the relay, and a new wire running up to the horns.

I tried activating the new horns, then didn't work. I tried the turn signals, and THEY no longer worked, neither did the high beam. Did I blow a fuse or something? The regular headlight still functions.

Sincerest thanks for any advice on what I may have done wrong, and what I need to do to fix the problems. I know a lot of new things are a learning experience, but I tend to turn them into disasters :oops:
Click to expand...
 
I just answered on the other thread

I just answered on the other thread

The schematic you are trying to follows seems fine and what you described seems right. However with your new problems it sounds like you might have lost your ground strap to the battery negative.

Make sure you have a strap from the negative side of the battery bolted to the frame somewhere where there is bare metal. Dielectric grease would help make it semi permanent.

Even through so much is going wrong it is probably a common cause . Do you have a volt meter?

Posplayr
 
I have a multimeter, yes. I kind of know how to use it, but not really. I will certainly check to see if I neglected to screw in one of the negative wires to the battery, but I counted three.... One to the engine I think, one to my battrery tender quick connect, and one to the R/R that I just put on the other day.

There's a very good chance I plugged the positive and negative into the wrong spades of the relay. Chef and I were on the phone hypothesizing that maybe that blew one of my fuses, though I went down with a flashlight just now and they all appeared to be in tact from a quick visual inspection.

Any additional insights you could provide would be fantastic. Thank you!
 
Well two common cause issues

Well two common cause issues

would be:

1.) light and blinkers seem to use frame grounds so losing the battery strap would make those not work. Use the ohm meter to make sure that the negative cable (removed from the battery) is low resistance to your local grounds or just to the frame in general (scratch the frame paint a little).

Blowing a fuse would also be killing the + side to some circuits would also be common cause. Use a volt meter to check both sides of the Fuses. With my over 50 eyes i can't tell as easily especially in poor light. If the fuse is intact you should measure the same voltage at either end (namely +12v battery voltage).

There's a very good chance I plugged the positive and negative into the wrong spades of the relay.

You are doing all this work with the battery disconnected right? (negative off first and reconnected last) You only plug the battery back up when it is all connected.
Posplayr
 
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Awesome, I'll give these a try tomorrow in the day light, thanks again for all your help this evening!
 
Many thanks to Chef.... After checking through the fuses (I was doing it wrong) and checking everything from the switch to the headlight assembly, we traced wires and found that a connector had been loosened, not enough to disconnect, but enough to break the circuits. Everything is fine and dandy!
 
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