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down to the frame

  • Thread starter Thread starter drhermanstein
  • Start date Start date
Got the GSXR center bearing stay to fit the GS neck. Turned down the top of the shaft to get the stock bearing position and diameter and turned a thread into the aluminium to get the retaining nut to hold the bearings together. Top clamp I had was twisted and useless but an ebay replacement is on its way.
Also got the rubber mount pins forward and up to get the Tracy Body closer to fitted.
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Shaved the mono shock pickup point off the bandit swingarm tonight. Pleasantly surprised at the fact that there was enough meat in the casting that welding in missing bits wasn't necessary.
 
isleoman said:
OK I'll bite whats the trick to getting things aligned or is this a secret Canadian thing involving the Northern lights, Molsons or something? I know some people bungee 8' flourescent lights to either side of the rear tire and check how well the front tire is centered between them. I just don't want to be stuck with two lights floating around my work area when I'm done.

Do you plan to use the Bandit rubber wear guard to protect the front of the arm from the chain? I never saw Katman address this. I have hacked away (reduced width on both sides and enlarged hole) on the rubber guard that came with my bandit swing arm and have it installed however, the chain doesn't end up being centered on the raised center ridge of the rubber guard. It does keep the chain well off the aluminum though, so I'm leaving it for now.

I like the hard plastic (probably delrin) of the newer chain protectors like on my FZ1 better than the Bandit rubber ones but you would have to machine one from scratch.

I have a 98 Bandit arm on my 82 1100ez with a 170 RF900 rear wheel, stock bandit axle spacers, and a 3/8" off set front sprocket with the same gearing that Katman came up with. I'm using the stock GS rear hub with a 530 chain and I have the rear sprocket reverse mounted. This set up is keeping my 116 link end less chain (from an FZ1) from coming anywhere close to the frame or tire.

Visually, the chain looks lined up and turns smoothly however, its possible that the 170 RF900 wheel and GS hub combo may be slightly off set in the swing arm since the bandit normally came with a 180. It also seems like I may need another 10 mm of spacer(s) because you can visually see the swing arm being moved inward as I tighten the axle bolt. I don't have a 180 Bandit or GSXR wheel to measure but I assumed the 170 RF900 wheel would be the same width at the bearings.

Anyone out there that can tell me the width of the 180 wheel along the axle with the spacers in place?

By the way my machinist cut the rear chain guard mounting tab off in order to mount the shock mounts. I've come up with a pretty fair work around however, it may or may not be a secret. http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/images/icons/icon12.gif
Wink
Click to expand...
I used a pair of straight edges on each side of the bench and tacked them in place (2 inch x 3/8 inch cold rolled flat bar). I then drew a line down the middle of the space in between and lined a laser up with that line and all the center points on the frame and voila!
 
drhermanstein said:
I used a pair of straight edges on each side of the bench and tacked them in place (2 inch x 3/8 inch cold rolled flat bar). I then drew a line down the middle of the space in between and lined a laser up with that line and all the center points on the frame and voila!
Click to expand...

Thanks, Sounds like your alignment technique should work.

Your making great progress. Can't wait to see the Tracy body installed. Back in 1972/73 I had two buddies that had Honda CB750s with custom painted Tracy cafe bodies and Action Four big bore kits. The Tracy bodies were light years ahead of their time styling wise. Those bikes would draw crowds anywhere they stopped. The nicer one was painted 100% Honda yellow. I'll have to ask them some day if they ever took pictures.

I did a little fishe (ing) on my swingarm setup and found that the axel spacers are the same for RF900, GSXR1100 and Bandit 1200. Brake hangers are the same also. Any possible reduction in width along the axel that I have between a stock Bandit set up and what I've assembled is probably due to the use of the GS1100 hub, which according to Katman is approx 4 mm thinner than Bandit hubs. So I'm going to add a 4 mm thk washer to the hub side spacer and see how things line up.
 
Got the body where I want it. Front mount complete, under-seat front mount /rest complete. Rear mount and neck to be completed this weekend.
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Do I see some small roots blowers with the other car parts?! Lets see some of your other projects!!!
 
lecroy said:
Do I see some small roots blowers with the other car parts?! Lets see some of your other projects!!!
Click to expand...
They're just cores for rebuilds. I rebuild turbos and the odd supercharger for a living.
 
This is probably a dumb question, but why did you decapitate the frame in the first place?
 
I really needed more room between the fork tubes and the Tracy body. And I thought that I'd like a little better turn in than stock. So I'm going with 25.5-26 degrees rake and 3/4 in further forward.
 
Machined the top clamp to fit the GS nut.
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Fits like a glove!!!!!!!!!
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Welding the neck to frame tomorrow.
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Got the laser in place before the welding can begin. The photo is not in line with the center of the bike so it looks "off".
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Tacked in place!!
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Got one side of the neck re-attachment done.
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Other side almost done
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underside gusset in place as well
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Are you tacking that in sections, like you would weld sheet metal? Or just pouring the heat to it? How are you going to ensure that the head doesn't move on you? I know you have the laser, but it seems like it would really be frustrating to have to stop and break the welds every time the head moved. Maybe I just don't know crap about welding :)
 
I tacked the neck in place with sacrificial "stays" or "guides" for the first stages of assembly. As I got more and more opposing and or triangulating welds in place, I was able to remove the "stays" and just add each piece to the mix. There are two major upright pieces in a "T", The bottom gusset, the side tube pieces and the there will be the top tube piece. Once there is a certain amount of triangulation and inherent strength of the structure, the expanding and contracting forces during the weld aren't strong enough to move the existing welds and compromise the dimensions. Welding each piece from top to bottom, in succession and in a clockwise manner for example would twist it all to heck.
 
Did it end up perfectly straight???

Did it end up perfectly straight???

Sounds like you know what you are doing, looks a lot better than I could do.
 
tkent02 said:
Sounds like you know what you are doing, looks a lot better than I could do.
Click to expand...
I'm going to check for straight as soon as the last weld is done. Let's hope I know what I'm talking about!
 
Neck is done and straight!! Wooo Hooo!!!!
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Motor tear down is next so that the machine shop can do their thing while I finish up the bracing and body mounts.
 
I want your garage. As a matter of fact, I want your garage, with you in it, but working on MY bike....:-D
 
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