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Drifting Wheel Bearings (language lesson needed)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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Under the pretense that there are no dumb questions, I am submitting this post.

In removing my rear wheel (1980 GS850L), and in preparing to remove my front wheel, I noticed some unfamiliar language on how to remove the wheel bearings. Specifically, my Clymers manual says to "drift" them out.

Is a "drift" also the same as a "punch?" And if so, does "drifting" the bearings out amount to putting a punch through the wheel and tapping the bearings out from the backside of the bearing?

Related to all this would also be any checks I can do to see if I even need to replace the wheel bearings. I just figured since I'm in there . . . (The bike sat for who knows how long before my friend got it, cleaned it up, rode it a while, then sold it to me.)

Of course, if there are any other details that would help, they're more than welcome.

Thanks in advance.
 
A drift is esentially a punch with a blunt end on it. Just make sure that when you tap it out, you do it evenly. You dont' want that bearing to get wedged in the wheel.
 
I just re-packed my wheel bearings this winter. Yes, a drift is basically a bigger punch. I'd buy a real drift instead of using a punch. Try and find one that is quite long, like 14" or so. This will give you the leverage you need to keep the end of the drift on the bearing edge. You need to use the drift tip to push the bearing spacer to the side in order to give you a spot to strike the edge of the bearing from the back.
 
A 'drift' is usually made of brass or some other metal softer than the material being 'drifted', so it doesn't mar the surfaces, and a 'punch' is generally harder, do it can dig in. Look for rust, pitting, grooves in the races and any roughness or 'stickiness' during rotation to determine whether they need replacement. They should be very smooth. Not a bad idea to take them to the shop after cleaning them and ask someone to properly assess them. Then you'll know what to look for.
Now would be the time to replace them if they need it........


Good luck,

S.
 
the problem with using a brass drift is getting one, I searched all over and got the blank stare whenever I asked for one.
I ended up finding a set at a old car swap meet.
 
be sure to only tap on the outer race of the bearing when removing too...
 
wheel bearings are cheep. if you have a good autoparts store thay can cross reffernce them, by the numbers on the bearing. tell them it for a bike and you need high speed.

I replaced the front on my bike and it was under 15 dollers. then since thay were realy bad i replaced my rear set to be shure.
 
Consider the dealer for this. If you damage the races that the bearing ride in your going to need a wheel. Any shop can pop them out and press new ones in a lot quciker than you can if the wheels are off the bike.

Some things are not worth doing yourself.
 
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