• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Drill bit broke in hole..Now what?

Is this a cover on a cover? ie can the whole part be removed? If so then have a ring around your local engineering shops and find one that does spark eroding.
Spark eroding has never failed for me.
 
Cover bolt on the TX..Its just a cover that goes over the points and stator covers. The stator has its onw seperate cover and the gasket seals the cover because its oil cooled like our GSs are. The outer cover is purely a decorative cover which hides everything behind it. I have also thought of just grinding the shank thats left on the head back a bit and just glueing it in the hole so it "looks like " theres a bolt in there. But ideally i would like to get the stud out and do it right. 6 of one and half dozen of another i guess.
 
Seems like you could use a tool like a dremel with a diamond point tip and slowly grind a slot in it and maybe get it out with a flat head screw driver/impact driver.. Might have to mist with water to keep the tip cool.
 
Is this a cover on a cover? ie can the whole part be removed? If so then have a ring around your local engineering shops and find one that does spark eroding.
Spark eroding has never failed for me.



What is spark eroding?
 
You have another alternative or two, I have a set of these at home but I've not had to use them yet, I'm told the result is spectacular.
http://www.cromwell.co.uk/KEN1541050K
Being solid Carbide they are very heavy for their size.
Another way is to grind a proper sharp cutting edge on a masonry drill, that will get it too.

twotimeGSr.. Spark eroding is essentially drilling but using a high current spark to erode the metal away, the part is clamped down and immersed in oil andthe spark is started in the middle and worked outwards as the unwanted metal is eroded away, once the core is gone the remaining thread that is left is unwound just like a helicoil leaving the original thread untouched. Garanteed positive result.
 
I do have some real small bits Dave. Some relief and work it free may be the trick. The thing is that the cover really doesnt hold back oil or anything so if it was at the bottom out of sight or whatever i wouldnt give a crap one way or the other, but its right at the top and one missing will bug the hell out of me to no end.

Give the smallest drill bit a go. Even if you have to re-tap it afterwards since it is just for a cover you should be good to go. Good luck.
 
I tried a small bit to go along bside the broken off bit..all that did was dull the small bit almost instantly. Broke piece is still down in there. Anyhting eklse short of the 45 MAG ???
 
Can you get alongside it with a torx bit? They grab pretty well and the busted drill won't be in there very tight.
 
when welding onto bolts that are broken off down in the hole I have used paper straws or a rolled up piece of paper as a rod guide so the rod doesn't touch the sides of the hole. then just weld your way back up the hole, let the paper burn.
For some reason , the weld doesn't stick to the sides of the hole, even in steel.
 
The weld wont stick to the aluminum case either..just worried about melting the threads.
 
When welding onto bolts that are broken off down in the hole I have used paper straws or a rolled up piece of paper as a rod guide so the rod doesn't touch the sides of the hole. then just weld your way back up the hole, let the paper burn.
For some reason , the weld doesn't stick to the sides of the hole, even in steel.
Clever idea ... I like that! Bet you could build up the weld enough with the MIG to grab it with a pliers and get the broken bit out!

Watching with interest to see if this works!

Regards,
 
WSelding onto it will heat the crap out of it too...which is good to crack the bonding oxidation. I will try it probably Tuesday if i get the day off.
 
Back
Top