Yeah, it's not super simple but I have a reasonable "eye" for that kind of thing & to be honest you will never see the two together by definition, apart from the ones that come back down the tank when you're sitting on it....
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Drying time - Pinstripe to final clearcoat
- Thread starter salty_monk
- Start date
Still needs rubbing back & polishing out & the badges adding but I couldn't wait to ride it... 
Before polish and badges by salty_monk, on Flickr
Before polish and badges by salty_monk, on Flickr
Before polish and badges by salty_monk, on Flickr
Before polish and badges by salty_monk, on FlickrBefore polish and badges by salty_monk, on FlickrBefore polish and badges by salty_monk, on Flickr
G
Guest
Guest
I laid the factory stripes to my Honda over the Duplicolor, then sprayed the clear. I gave it about a week before I put down the clear coat and made sure any bubbles were out first.
true we normally only see one side at a time but we are our own worst critics. it bothers the hell out of me if I mess up and doubly reinforced if someone else also notices the discrepancy and points it out.
Thanks, yeah it looks decent. I think if I polish anything out it will mostly be the tank. Either that or I may hit it with another can and try to go a bit heavier this time...
I polished the tank and tail cowl. The tank is what people will notice and the cowl isn't a lot more work after you've already done the tank. I couldn't be bothered to put much effort into the fender.
A problem that I encountered recently with clear coats. I painted my CBX with base coat and then clear and wet sanded to remove orange peel, it turned out very well.
I did the same with GS when I came to the wet sand stage I wasn't able to remove the orange peel plus I added a scratches to the surface that I couldn't remove. I redid the color and clear coat twice more with the same results WTH! is happening here.
I've did some revisions to the tail cowl that required sanding, priming, painting and clear coat. All good except that horrible orange peel is present. I was resigned to leaving it as is ugly as it was rather than wet sanding.
Then thinking back to why it worked well on the CBX and not on the GS I went over every step and what I may have done differently.
The only difference is the clear coat!!!! The clear coat I'm using now is Spray Max with no hardener, it needs at least two weeks of drying before wet sanding. Previously I used Eastwood with an activator inside the can, it hardens super hard in a couple days.
I used Eastwood on the CBX tank because it resists gasoline spills, since my tank is polished steel on the GS I didn't require the more expensive Eastwood clear, cutting corners and saving money I went with Spray Max.
I thought I'd pass all the info in case someone else runs into similar problems.
I did the same with GS when I came to the wet sand stage I wasn't able to remove the orange peel plus I added a scratches to the surface that I couldn't remove. I redid the color and clear coat twice more with the same results WTH! is happening here.
I've did some revisions to the tail cowl that required sanding, priming, painting and clear coat. All good except that horrible orange peel is present. I was resigned to leaving it as is ugly as it was rather than wet sanding.
Then thinking back to why it worked well on the CBX and not on the GS I went over every step and what I may have done differently.
The only difference is the clear coat!!!! The clear coat I'm using now is Spray Max with no hardener, it needs at least two weeks of drying before wet sanding. Previously I used Eastwood with an activator inside the can, it hardens super hard in a couple days.
I used Eastwood on the CBX tank because it resists gasoline spills, since my tank is polished steel on the GS I didn't require the more expensive Eastwood clear, cutting corners and saving money I went with Spray Max.
I thought I'd pass all the info in case someone else runs into similar problems.
That's not the 2K spraymax then... that has a catalyser. You have to press in the red button on the bottom of the can to activate it
correct, I went cheap on the non critical parts that wouldn't come into contact with gas. I'm going to wait two weeks until the cheap stuff hardens and I'll try a wet sand again. If it doesn't work I'll go back to the Eastwood product or maybe the 2k sparymax.That's not the 2K spraymax then... that has a catalyser. You have to press in the red button on the bottom of the can to activate it
rather than wetsanding to polish, as a final- maybe try Polishing Compound...two grades: first is pink, second is white. I use the turtle wax stuff and it works well for me on urethanes and laquers...not sure about "spray max" but it's worth a try if you can't get a real shine with wetsanding...the "pink" compound (likely a very fine pumice" will dull the finish but smooth any scratches- the white will bring it back to a shine. It's the definitive "hand-rubbed" surface i guess and I do it by hand.