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Dyna Coils = Crap Running

  • Thread starter Thread starter Roger P.
  • Start date Start date
R

Roger P.

Guest
Finally installed the Dyna coils (tight!) in my 1100E. The bike is now running pretty rough. Seems like cylinders are falling in and out. Idle is erratic, and sometimes the bike is stalling (cold or hot, doesn't matter). Seem like it gets better after the bike runs for awhile, but when I get back in stop and go traffic, the problem comes back. Are these coils more sensitive to coil voltage than the stockers? I always had a bit of "flutter", but it seems like it is amplified by these new coils, perhaps the igniter is bad and the coils makes the problem worse? I don't know. I'm kinda disappointed, as I was looking forward to smoothing out the engine response a bit by replacing the coils and wires, which seemed to really act up in the damp. Do these coils need any special type of HT leads? I bought a cheap set of Champion leads for $17 which fit like a charm. Is there a minimum separation distance you need between two leads? If I wrap a lead through a part of the frame, am I inducing a current in the frame? Is single wire vs braided core an issue? I do have a Dyna S to be installed, but this issue baffles me. I know it is installed correctly, I took my time, followed the instructions and made sure all connections were solid.
 
Dunno Roger, should run at least as well as it did before...

Did you use the green, 3 ohm ones?

I'm running 2 sets (550L, 850GL) and they perform great, much better than the stock coils.'

If the install was "tight" as you say, check & make sure the two screw heads connections aren't arcing out intermittently to the frame. If you listen (and look at night) you may just hear (and see) it arcing to the frame.

The install was very tight on the 550 too, I covered the screw heads with black tape to guard against that.

good luck,

mike
 
Couple of thoughts..are the coils the correct resistance? Are they overheating? From what you describe when you are moving the problem goes away(more airflow over coils) and when you stop (lack of airflow) problem returns.
 
Sounds like it is such a tight fit that one or both of your coil's leads are grounding out on the bike frame.

Earl
 
Like Earlfor says the green Dynas don't fit 1100e that well with out some sort of home made spacer to keep them away from the frame. Even with spacers I've had issues with shorting to frame in heavy rain.
 
I had to hang the coils from the mounts by turning the mounting bolts and spacers upside down. I need a longer bolt and spacers to fit under the tank in the stock postition.
Get a Dyna S with those coils and unleash the beast.
 
Thanks guys. A little update. I installed resistor plugs after reading that you can't run these components through a solid copper-core wire without the stock resistor caps. That seemed to help quite a bit

However, I have since installed a Dyna S ignition (which was what I originally bought to help out with intermittent stumbling and misfiring with my stock components). Now I have NO fire whatsoever. I took the +12V from the igniter harness plug orange feed wire, and then hooked up the black and white coil wires at the same plug. No starting despite plenty of cranking. The fuel/air lights off when I shut off the ignition, so they are powering up. I get voltage at both the coil orange wires, but it seems like the ignition isn't working properly. I contacted Dyna support, and I was told I couldn't run the new Dyna S black/white coil wires through the stock harness, even though my wiring schematics seem to show that the coils are the only things hooked up to these particular harness wires (black/yellow,white). The new plug leads are a cheap set of Champion 7mm car wires I got from Canadian Tire for $17. They fit fine, and didn't come in funky colours, so I am happy with them. I was going to run some coil feed wires today, but it was such an unbelievably beautiful day, I couldn't resist taking out my XS650 Heritage Special for a long ride through the country. I feel that once I have some dedicated wires running to the Dyna 3ohm green coils, and a fully charged battery, I should have the problem licked. I will double check that the coils aren't shorting. I don't think the 12V connections are an issue, since there is enough air gap to keep them from shorting, but the HT leads are very tight to the frame, so much so I had to connect the plug wires before bolting down the coils. Even then, the square edges of the coil mounting bosses on the frame were lightly digging into the rubber boot on the coil end of the wire. I'm looking forward to getting it running right!
 
You should really just run some jumpers to everything straight from the battery. See if that gets rid of your problem. Grounds too. Make sure your ground from engine to frame to battery neg. is good too.

Ditto on the XS650 for a tour through the country. I took mine out too. GREAT Thanksgiving day, and weekend!
 
I cut off the stock wire and plugs from the stock coils and installed them to the Dynatek coils and plug them right into the harness.
Run a coil mod from the battery to the orange wire that comes from the kill switch (cut it off the solder ball of orange wires) and the other side of the relay switch to the large solder ball of orange wires. This way the relay is controlled by the kill switch so it will work like stock. The orange wire that used to go to the igniter connect the Dyna S to it. (red)
Connect the white Dyna wire to the White coil wire and the black Dyna to the yellow/black coil wire. You'll find these wires on the plug that goes into the igniter.
 
;)Hijack in progress;)
Would I also use the 3ohm coils on an 83 GS750E?
:-k
Return to your regularly scheduled thread now:p
 
Well, I tried running new wires directly from the Dyna S. No go. There was no spark at all while cranking, but all 4 lit up when I turned the key off. I swapped wires, to no avail. I put in my old igniter and plate, bike fired right up with the Dyna coils still installed. I have to say I think the Dyna S is duff. I've contacted Dyna support to ask how I go about returning the unit, but I purchased it from Z1. This blows. I really wanted to get the bike running with the new components before the season ended. Oh well, at least it's running again.

As a side note, the plug testing caps were really useful. They are simple straight caps that go between the wires and the plugs. They light up when the plug fires.
 
I would use the green 3 ohm coils on any 4 cyl althogh their may be some mounting problems dependiing on your model.
If you use auto plug wires -- do not use the stock plug cap- use the auto end.
If you use solid core plug wires You need to reuse the stock plug caps
 
One mystery solved.

Crap running with the coils is due to the light show going on under my tank. There is enough spark energy to arc from the coil outputs to the gas tank. I'll need to rework the mounting. Doesn't explain why it wouldn't go with the Dyna S though. Im not terribly impressed with the design and workmanship of these coils, although they seem energetic enough. The Accel coils looks like a much nicer design.
 
Light show

Light show

Is usually due to high impedance coil wires (at least on cars), and dont see why this would be any different.

The coils high energy spark hits the high impedance of an old plug wire and bounces back and since it has to go somewhere starts arcing from the coils.

Probably runs like crap as well. I learned this lesson back in College after driving my 64 Chevelle all the way from Ark to Ca running like crap, had changed everything except plug wires.

A simple check is to go look at your engine at night with the lights off, look for little arcs near the coil.

Lesson learned, Change the wires.

Pos
 
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