Dynatek DS3-2 Electronic Ignition

[Rodman]

posplayr

Already on top on this, I removed and marked the bottom of the pickups on the return with a UV marker (good & bad), it's the same type of ink as a "sharpie" but in UV. Unless they drown it in a solvent it won't come off. If they come back as new I will tout the Dyna service, if not then....??? My make shift meter is digital, I'll post a pic but require at least a chuckle, where would we be without zip ties, solder, and heatshrink? BTW if I've looked at some after market types, know of any good ones for this application?

 

[GSOH]

If my bike has coil relay mods installed for each coil, how does one go about wiring this up? I'm looking at the DS3-2 for my bike. Thanks

 

[mike_of_bbg]

If my bike has coil relay mods installed for each coil, how does one go about wiring this up? I'm looking at the DS3-2 for my bike. Thanks

You can tie the (+) feed for the Dyna into either. The Dyna S is a 3-wire connection; red (+12V) wire, and a ground for each coil. Grounding is through the plate. Couldn't be much easier.

Not sure what the advantage would be to a coil relay mod for each coil independently, but it shouldn't be a big deal. Just pick one and tie the red +12V into the same wire feeding the coil.

 

[posplayr]

This is how I would wire the Dyna S and the Coil relay mod. It has a minimum of hacking to the stock harness and is completely reversible back to stock.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=141055&highlight=relay+mod

As Mike said, the Dyna grounds through the engine block so make sure that you have a good ground to the frame

 

[Guest]

I never saw any point in going back to the original wiring since the coil mod works so well. I know the relay is going to fail, so I carry a jumper with spade ends to plug into the battery input terminal and output terminal to the coils so it won't take but a few minutes to bypass the relay and power the coils in an emergency until I can replace the relay. It's my backup if I don't have a spare relay. IMHO, the Dyna-S and coil relay mod are permanent fixtures. I just have to label my wiring so the next owner (my son) will know what I did. One of these days I'll get a "round tuit".

 

[posplayr]

I never saw any point in going back to the original wiring since the coil mod works so well. I know the relay is going to fail, so I carry a jumper with spade ends to plug into the battery input terminal and output terminal to the coils so it won't take but a few minutes to bypass the relay and power the coils in an emergency until I can replace the relay. It's my backup if I don't have a spare relay. IMHO, the Dyna-S and coil relay mod are permanent fixtures. I just have to label my wiring so the next owner (my son) will know what I did. One of these days I'll get a "round tuit".

The main issue with coil voltage is the succession of switches, connectors and other contacts between the "T" and the coil; it really is not the wire size , it is those contacts.

For my ED at least and I suspect similar for most other GS's, there is only one additional contact involved as opposed to replacement of all of the original wires in the modification I suggested. I started with new harness and new left and right hand switches which in about a year had degraded to the point my bike was a hard start; I live in a humid coastal location (YMMV).
With making the changes no more issues. Most of the reversibility is to go back to a stock ignition which I have been running as opposed to the Dyna-S.

My mods are already fully documented in my write up (except maybe I'm the only one that can read them??)

 

[Guest]

Well, in my case, mine had points, so there is no question of ever going back. I guess the stock '83 ignition was pretty good, though I have never seen one. I checked out a 2013 CB1100 the other day, who knows, I might win the lottery, stranger things have happened. That is the only bike I would ever consider riding instead of my GS1000E. At virtually 66, a little closer to the ground and lighter with close to the same performance but with a bit more refinement would be perfect, but the GS is good exercise for my arthritis.

 

[posplayr]

Well, in my case, mine had points, so there is no question of ever going back. I guess the stock '83 ignition was pretty good, though I have never seen one. I checked out a CB1100 the other day, who knows, I might win the lottery, stranger things have happened. That is the only bike I would ever consider riding instead of my GS1000E.

The GS1100E electronic ignitors use a mechanical advance which is what is required with the Dyna S, so there is not much difference between the stock and the DynaS. I tend to trust the OE ignitor more than the DynaS. I have never seen a bad OE ignitor. Can't say the same about the DynaS.

By most accounts of the day, the 83 GS1100E was a more refined bike(save for the front brakes) than the 83 CB1100, I will reserve any other comments as my ED is not very stock any more and I am partial .

 

[Guest]

I just edited my last post. It was a 2013 CB1100 retro style that I was looking at.

 

[Killer2600]

The GS1100E electronic ignitors use a mechanical advance which is what is required with the Dyna S, so there is not much difference between the stock and the DynaS. I tend to trust the OE ignitor more than the DynaS. I have never seen a bad OE ignitor. Can't say the same about the DynaS.

By most accounts of the day, the 83 GS1100E was a more refined bike(save for the front brakes) than the 83 CB1100, I will reserve any other comments as my ED is not very stock any more and I am partial .

The CB1100 is a NEW/current model bike so over an '83 anything I'd say it has much

 

[posplayr]

I just edited my last post. It was a 2013 CB1100 retro style that I was looking at.

Well that is a whole other subject.

I agree the GS1000 is a well balanced bike perhaps even more so than the 82/83 1100, but after swapping mine to radials and more modern brakes I would never go back either.

 

[Guest]

I had always run one size over on the back tire. With this last change to the Shinko 230 Tourmaster tires, I went one size over, front and rear, and I have to say it handles better than it has a right to. The newer brakes will be a next future project.

 

[posplayr]

I had always run one size over on the back tire. With this last change to the Shinko 230 Tourmaster tires, I went one size over, front and rear, and I have to say it handles better than it has a right to. The newer brakes will be a next future project.

I think the key is to get stiffer side walls which equates to shorter side walls. For the rear going to a 130-70 for example v.s a 120-90 but this is nothing compared to getting a radial, I'm riding 110/80-18(2.75" wheel) and 170/60-18(4.5" wheel).

Not quite the same as the 120/70-17(3.5" wheel) and the 180/55-17(5.5" wheel) which are pretty standard sport setup but it is close and probably all the old GS1100ED needs.

 

[GSOH]

You can tie the (+) feed for the Dyna into either. The Dyna S is a 3-wire connection; red (+12V) wire, and a ground for each coil. Grounding is through the plate. Couldn't be much easier.

Not sure what the advantage would be to a coil relay mod for each coil independently, but it shouldn't be a big deal. Just pick one and tie the red +12V into the same wire feeding the coil.

I'm anxiously awaiting my DS3-2 to come in the mail. Today I decided to take off the old ignitor and remove the signal generator as I understand it, the Dyna replaces all of this and I will no longer be needing it with the upgrade. Couple of things came up.

1) my bolt to hold the advancer and magnet it too short. Thinking I can just go get similar allen head bolt about 5/8" longer.

2) After I disconnected the signal generator, there are two plugs coming out of the ignitor box, one of which goes to the signal generator (black plug), the other (pink plug) going where I do not know. What do I do with the pink plug?

pix of plugs:
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/8iic0g7m4ig19ra/MBzkxXoonq

closeup of pink plug:
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/xfal9ykrt4vpmio/MjhxSLxP3u

pix of ignitor box just in case anyone wants to see it:
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/qqsuqv4koc5cmby/dJBWmATQbD

 

[mike_of_bbg]

You can just cover and tuck the plugs if you wish to leave the stock wiring harness unmolested. I actually used the 12V+ connector on the igniter plug as the feed for my coil relay mod. I guess you could also use that harness to connect to the coil grounds, though I just spliced in the black/white Dyna wires between the coil and their plugs (leaving the stock harness intact). Yes, it does replace the sig gen and the igniter together.

Your bolt is too short? Did you get your new rotor already? It should not be tight against the rotor. I found that the Dyna rotor and the included spacer was a bit too tall if the bolt was tightened down to allow the spacer to advance, as others have. I just sanded down the top of the rotor a few tenths of a mm. Others have looked for thinner washers to use as spacers. You want the rotor to be loose enough to advance but not so much space as to allow it to slip off of the advance unit.

I'm anxiously awaiting my DS3-2 to come in the mail. Today I decided to take off the old ignitor and remove the signal generator as I understand it, the Dyna replaces all of this and I will no longer be needing it with the upgrade. Couple of things came up.

1) my bolt to hold the advancer and magnet it too short. Thinking I can just go get similar allen head bolt about 5/8" longer.

2) After I disconnected the signal generator, there are two plugs coming out of the ignitor box, one of which goes to the signal generator (black plug), the other (pink plug) going where I do not know. What do I do with the pink plug?

pix of plugs:
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/8iic0g7m4ig19ra/MBzkxXoonq

closeup of pink plug:
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/xfal9ykrt4vpmio/MjhxSLxP3u

pix of ignitor box just in case anyone wants to see it:
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/qqsuqv4koc5cmby/dJBWmATQbD

 

[GSOH]

Your bolt is too short? Did you get your new rotor already? It should not be tight against the rotor. I found that the Dyna rotor and the included spacer was a bit too tall if the bolt was tightened down to allow the spacer to advance, as others have. I just sanded down the top of the rotor a few tenths of a mm. Others have looked for thinner washers to use as spacers. You want the rotor to be loose enough to advance but not so much space as to allow it to slip off of the advance unit.

This is what my advancer (right) looks like & mechanical advancer my buddy gave me (left) to change over to for dyna S ignition. It seems to fit slot. This will work, no?

 

[GSOH]

Another view of advancers.

 

[Rodman]

WOW!! This turned into one heck of a post. GSOH your mechanical advance will work and you'll be very pleased with the upgrade.

Last update on this one for me. Dyna was super quick with the out of warranty replacement and now I have a spare. They have changed the design, I noticed this on the new one and the replacement. The pickup housing is mich smaller, maybe to reduce heat mas??? Anyway this is what they look like now. Only time will tell how they hold up, good luck.

 

[Guest]

That's quite a design change on the power modules. The plate and wiring are the same.

 

[GSOH]

WOW!! This turned into one heck of a post. GSOH your mechanical advance will work and you'll be very pleased with the upgrade.

They have changed the design, I noticed this on the new one and the replacement. The pickup housing is much smaller, maybe to reduce heat mas??? Anyway this is what they look like now. Only time will tell how they hold up, good luck.

Dyna S installed today. HUGe noticeable difference from initial fire up. Mine looks like the one you posted so they must have changed their pickup design.

BUT float needles, never once doing this, are sticking & I had fuel coming out near all four air box boot ports! WTF is that? I'm trying to help the bike here. Perhaps its something else? Jeez...