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Dynojet advice

glib

glib

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
I called Dynojet to get advice on the following: 83 GS1100E with stage 3 kit, pods and 4-1 runs amazing all the way to redline if you twist from idle to full throttle slowly (1-1.5 seconds) but if you just open it, the engine will stumble at around 5,000rpm and not recover until you back off for a moment and then hit it again after which it will accelerate strongly to redline.

The guy at Dynojet said they think it is rich at the stumble and to raise the needle. We talk mostly about lean conditions here so it never occurred to me that it might be rich. I don't know if I've read anyone describe the behavior of a rich GS other than black exhaust.

Anyone able to advise on this?
 
Do a plug chop when it stumbles and see if you are running rich or not, that should give you better direction than a guess.

V
 
You can also run your choke slightly on, if it gets better you are lean, worse you are rich
 
Does the pipe have a baffle of any sort? Flat spots in mid-range are typically due to lack of any back pressure without knowing more info.
 
gustovh said:
Do a plug chop when it stumbles and see if you are running rich or not, that should give you better direction than a guess.

V
Click to expand...

+1 this. Plug chop will tell you everything you need to know.
 
Carter Turk said:
If it is rich where they say, then raising the needle will make it richer. Is it a Mac pipe?
Click to expand...

You are right of course. I meant to say that they said to raise the clip.

It is a Vance and Hines.

stain said:
You can also run your choke slightly on, if it gets better you are lean, worse you are rich
Click to expand...

I thought this sounded good but it didn't make any difference in the stumble.
 
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This is a new plug after a plug chop test. I hit the kill switch in the middle of the "stumble" and pulled the plug and this is what is looked like.

 
I would run it around a bit more until the plugs color up some before doing another plug chop and check all the plugs. The one you show looks dead lean if it's firing at all. A plug chop should burn off all excess richness from idling and show you what is really happening at full throttle where excessive leanness could melt a hole in your piston. Where is your antisease for the plug threads or is that camera angle?
 
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OldVet66 said:
I would run it around a bit more until the plugs color up some before doing another plug chop and check all the plugs. The one you show looks dead lean if it's firing at all. A plug chop should burn off all excess richness from idling and show you what is really happening at full throttle where excessive leanness could melt a hole in your piston. Where is your antisease for the plug threads or is that camera angle?
Click to expand...

Good eye. No anti-seize on this plug. I think the plug does show what you describe. It has burned off any excess richness from idling and is indeed showing a lean condition during the full throttle mid-rpm stumble. Before I make any adjustments however, I am going to look at the coil relay mod idea and check my voltage at the coils since low voltage at the coils apparently can cause similar behavior.
 
Voltage to the coils is good. Same as the voltage at the battery so back to the carbs. I dropped the clips to the fourth position. Still getting some stumble but may be a bit better. Guess I'll try the next position. PITA.
 
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Pod people?

Pod people?

I raised the needle again but still get the mid-range stumble. In first gear this morning it pushed through the stumble and pulled the front wheel off the ground. Startled me a bit.

The "stumble" occurs at a higher rpm in each gear...for what it's worth.

I guess I'll try the plug chop again. I wish I could test at a track. The neighborhood is not a great testing environment.

In my 700ES the dynojet kit went in and performed perfectly from the start so this is pretty frustrating.
 
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Are all the carb internal o-rings original? Might be causing a rich/lean condition somewhere.
What about the air/jets they provide in the kit, did they say to use them?
 
Carter Turk said:
Are all the carb internal o-rings original? Might be causing a rich/lean condition somewhere.
What about the air/jets they provide in the kit, did they say to use them?
Click to expand...

The kit was installed in another "E" that I bought with a broke motor so I checked the main jets which are the only ones they say to change and installed them and the needles in this bike. I had completely dipped the carbs and installed new o-rings prior to installing the kit. I have moved the needles up and down so much for so little notable change that I am beginning to wonder if it could be something else but I have no idea what. Could it be that internal engine modifications are necessitating a different main jet? I don't know what has been done to this motor but my ES won't pull the front wheel off the ground by just twisting the throttle.
 
Not seeing what type of pods you're running? (might be a factor-cheap or not properly oiled)
What's the air/fuel mixture screw at, and the float height.
Maybe a Pingel petcock might help with fuel delivery,
although I'm sure many have a stock one that works with your set up.
Or bump up the pilot jet to 47.5 or try the next size up or down on the main.

At least fussing with carbs is easier with pods, but it takes more effort than a stock set-up to get right.
 
Carter Turk said:
Not seeing what type of pods you're running? (might be a factor-cheap or not properly oiled)
What's the air/fuel mixture screw at, and the float height.
Maybe a Pingel petcock might help with fuel delivery,
although I'm sure many have a stock one that works with your set up.
Or bump up the pilot jet to 47.5 or try the next size up or down on the main.

At least fussing with carbs is easier with pods, but it takes more effort than a stock set-up to get right.
Click to expand...

I set the float height after the carb dip and o-ring work. The set screws are at 2.5 I believe. I'll check that but it's what DynoJet called for.
The pods came with the bike and unfortunately I threw away the boxes...and they are not marked. I did not oil them. I didn't know they had to be oiled. Maybe that's the problem!

 
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Those are not the pods you oil, those are the pods you throw away before your engine gets ruined. I use them to keep bugs out of engines in storage, but that's it.
 
tkent02 said:
Those are not the pods you oil, those are the pods you throw away before your engine gets ruined. I use them to keep bugs out of engines in storage, but that's it.
Click to expand...

I see by quick search that they are EMGO. $10 each. Good to know. So this could be the problem then?

HA! Just priced K&N. That's not going to happen! Guess I'll go back to the stock airbox. Wow. (Edit: They are expensive but not as bad as I thought)
 
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Might try the Ape brand, apparently look alike K&N's and maybe just as good. Never used them personally, supposedly a bit cheaper.

If you go back to a stock airbox, you'll loose the stage-3, unless it came with stage one. So more carb fussing either way and what if

all the carb boots are stiff and shrunken, be more then a set of decent pods.
 
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