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Dynojet advice

APE pods are half the price of K&N. I have them on my '82 11e, and they perform and look great

And mine also started to pull the front up after it was jetted for the pods.
 
Rob S. said:
APE pods are half the price of K&N. I have them on my '82 11e, and they perform and look great

And mine also started to pull the front up after it was jetted for the pods.
Click to expand...

Thank you. What jets and needle settings did you end up with?
 
Carter Turk said:
Might try the Ape brand, apparently look alike K&N's and maybe just as good. Never used them personally, supposedly a bit cheaper.

If you go back to a stock airbox, you'll loose the stage-3, unless it came with stage one. So more carb fussing either way and what if

all the carb boots are stiff and shrunken, be more then a set of decent pods.
Click to expand...

Yes I would have to buy the carb boots. At least one is unusable. And you are right, I didn't get the rest of the kit with the bike so I'd be hunting for the smaller jets as well.
 
Is the pricing for K&N and APE filters for one or for a set of four? It's not clear on the websites and I can't see buying them if the price is x4.
 
If motorcycle maintenance is too expensive, why did you buy an older motorcycle?
 
tkent02 said:
If motorcycle maintenance is too expensive, why did you buy an older motorcycle?
Click to expand...

Really?

Because it's fun and I love to walk into my garage and be surrounded by beautiful bikes that remind me of my youth...and I love the feeling of being able to go back in time when I ride the roads I did 30 years ago.

For that matter, why don't you just take your older motorcycle to a competent shop for every repair? Because it's impractical...and working on them is part of the fun. Sometimes you have to spend to get what you want but paying more than necessary is not a goal.

Anyway, it's a moot point because the APE filters are $60 for four which is only $20 more than the junk ones. It's not enough to have a debate over.
 
Last edited:
glib said:
Thank you. What jets and needle settings did you end up with?
Click to expand...

I was afraid you were going to ask that. When I tried to extract that info from my tuner for the benefit of this site, he said, "You paid hundreds of dollars for that work. Why would you want to give it away?"

I explained to him that really no one here is geographically situated to be his customer. He said it wouldn't even matter because every bike is different.

I never did find out, but I can't fault his work. I'm just here to tell you not to believe the many pod haters on this site who will tell you it will never run as good as it did with the stock airbox. Mine starts and runs beautifully, pulls to redline without a single cough or stutter. And it only started to pull the front wheel off the ground after the pods and jetting.

I recall he said he got it right in three or four tries, all on the dyno, no road testing. I also think he said there was something required that isn't included with the Dynojet kit.

Good luck and don't settle for less than perfect. It's doable.
 
Rob S. said:
I was afraid you were going to ask that. When I tried to extract that info from my tuner for the benefit of this site, he said, "You paid hundreds of dollars for that work. Why would you want to give it away?"

I explained to him that really no one here is geographically situated to be his customer. He said it wouldn't even matter because every bike is different.

I never did find out, but I can't fault his work. I'm just here to tell you not to believe the many pod haters on this site who will tell you it will never run as good as it did with the stock airbox. Mine starts and runs beautifully, pulls to redline without a single cough or stutter. And it only started to pull the front wheel off the ground after the pods and jetting.

I recall he said he got it right in three or four tries, all on the dyno, no road testing. I also think he said there was something required that isn't included with the Dynojet kit.

Good luck and don't settle for less than perfect. It's doable.
Click to expand...

Thanks Rob. I don't know about perfect but I can't have it stutter. Maybe I won't be able to get it closer without quality pods--that is unless someone else with EMGOs has figured it out and chimes in.

I understand the tuner's point. His work is valuable and indeed every bike/geographical area can yield different results. However in the DIY world any info that might lead in the right direction is a good thing. I am going to sell this bike and would like the buyer to be able to ride away and enjoy it without these issues.
 
Turns out I had a set of K&N's on another bike so I put them on this one and took it for a ride. The stumble is still there although it does seem minimal. I'll have to start over with DJs suggested settings and go from there. If that doesn't work, I'll put the airbox and stock jets back on.
 
With K&Ns installed I went back to DynoJet basic settings and also checked the adjustment screws and behold, all is well now. Why, because the adjustment screws for 1 and 2 were way out. I'm the only one who has touched the bike so it had to be me but I sure don't remember opening them up like that. Especially without matching them all up. Another lesson.
 
glib said:
With K&Ns installed I went back to DynoJet basic settings and also checked the adjustment screws and behold, all is well now. Why, because the adjustment screws for 1 and 2 were way out. I'm the only one who has touched the bike so it had to be me but I sure don't remember opening them up like that. Especially without matching them all up. Another lesson.
Click to expand...

Hope you bumped up the Pilot jets to 47.5
 
Carter Turk said:
Might try the Ape brand, apparently look alike K&N's and maybe just as good. Never used them personally, supposedly a bit cheaper.

If you go back to a stock airbox, you'll loose the stage-3, unless it came with stage one. So more carb fussing either way and what if

all the carb boots are stiff and shrunken, be more then a set of decent pods.
Click to expand...
I am also on a forum for ZRX1200's. Those guys use Ape brand pods all the time with good results. Check the fuel/float level very carefully and you can also move it around and get different results also.
 
posplayr said:
Hope you bumped up the Pilot jets to 47.5
Click to expand...

I have not changed the pilot jets. In the DJ instructions for kit #3133, they reference their pilot jet DH160 to be used to lean out the bottom end if you are experiencing a loss of fuel mileage or the bike starts without the choke. It does not start without the choke but it is close. I don't have any time on the bike to check the mileage yet. I do have the DH160s. Would they be similar to the 47.5s?
 
Last edited:
glib said:
I have not changed the pilot jets. In the DJ instructions for kit #3133, they reference their pilot jet DH160 to be used to lean out the bottom end if you are experiencing a loss of fuel mileage or the bike starts without the choke. It does not start without the choke but it is close. I don't have any time on the bike to check the mileage yet. I do have the DH160s. Would they be similar to the 47.5s?
Click to expand...

The DJ instructions are not exactly correct. If you have pods and 4:1 you need to change the pilot jets and no that is not an air jet. If you bike is bone stock other than the pods/ipe then you could start with the DJ132 (equivalent to Mikuni 122.5) but I think Bill (Chef1366) generally starts with the DJ138(Mikuni 127.5) if anything has been done to the motor (like cams).
 
posplayr said:
The DJ instructions are not exactly correct. If you have pods and 4:1 you need to change the pilot jets and no that is not an air jet. If you bike is bone stock other than the pods/ipe then you could start with the DJ132 (equivalent to Mikuni 122.5) but I think Bill (Chef1366) generally starts with the DJ138(Mikuni 127.5) if anything has been done to the motor (like cams).
Click to expand...

OK well I'll have to acquire the other jets because all I have are the DJ160s. Also I don't know what has been done to the motor but the compression is notably higher that my other bikes.

Also I'm going to post another question for you over on electrical.
 
glib said:
OK well I'll have to acquire the other jets because all I have are the DJ160s. Also I don't know what has been done to the motor but the compression is notably higher that my other bikes.

Also I'm going to post another question for you over on electrical.
Click to expand...

You absolutely need the DJ needles because the taper of the needle is suited to the 4:1 scavenging v.s. 4:2 (with little). Based on experience by several 1100 owners (including me) you have to change the stock 45 to 47.5 Pilot jets.

The DJ138 is safe but could be a little rich. You should start in the middle on the needle and go from there. I don't recall the air jet. It doesn't make much difference or is the last thing you would do if at all.

I assume everything else has been gone through (carbs clean, balance carbs, float height, valves adjust and electrical voltage to the coils, timing).

You know how to tune CV's?

http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html

Note Rapid Ray also sell Factory pro needles that work but are very different to the DJ needles as they change the main significantly. Stick with DJ and ask Check 1366 if you are having problems he probably jets a set of 1100 carbs at least once per month month in month out.
 
Last edited:
posplayr said:
You absolutely need the DJ needles because the taper of the needle is suited to the 4:1 scavenging v.s. 4:2 (with little). Based on experience by several 1100 owners (including me) you have to change the stock 45 to 47.5 Pilot jets.

The DJ138 is safe but could be a little rich. You should start in the middle on the needle and go from there. I don't recall the air jet. It doesn't make much difference or is the last thing you would do if at all.

I assume everything else has been gone through (carbs clean, balance carbs, float height, valves adjust and electrical voltage to the coils, timing).

You know how to tune CV's?

http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html
Click to expand...

Great link! Thanks. I do have the DJ needles installed. I'll do the tests as described as soon as I get the chance and try the DJ160s too.
 
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