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Anonymous
Guest
I printed all 53 pages of the carb clean-up series. I plan on setting aside all day Sat. to do all of the clean-up. How long should this take for a first timer? ](*,) [/b]
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Anonymous
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The biggest time consumer is dipping the carbs. I have a clean paint can full of varsol that I dip each carb in overnight. This means it takes me four days to rebuild a set of carbs. If you have a bigger dunk tank it would help as long as you keep the carbs's parts seperated.
As long as you have vicegrips handy to remove trouble screws you should be able to do the first one within two hours and the last three within an hour each assuming they aren't really dirty.
Hex bolts will not work on the carbs as they don't have the clearance to turn, you'll need to get allen key screws if something runs amuk.
The washers won't come off of the screws either so they need to be replaced too.
Steve
As long as you have vicegrips handy to remove trouble screws you should be able to do the first one within two hours and the last three within an hour each assuming they aren't really dirty.
Hex bolts will not work on the carbs as they don't have the clearance to turn, you'll need to get allen key screws if something runs amuk.
The washers won't come off of the screws either so they need to be replaced too.Steve
A
Anonymous
Guest
Hey My Friend, You'll be pretty good at it, by the time you get to the last 2
carbs. Like Steve says, it will depend on how long you soak your carbs and how hard the mixture screws are to get out. :wink: When removing the screws, just bore into the plug no more then you have too to pry it out. If you bore to far, you'll chew up the top of the mixture screw which inturn will make it even harder to get it out even with a good screwdriver.
I myself am glad that I had 4 of the K&L carb kits to install during my clean and rebuild. If you don't have these kits + the orings from Robert Barr a guy on the forum (assuming you have the 1980 or later CV carbs which you may or may not), you might end up disappointed with the outcome if you end up with vacuum leaks. I would also reccomend pulling the intake boots off for inspection of dry rot and cracking + I would for sure install new orings between the boots and itake ports with some hi temp grease on the orings.
If your like me, you might end up ruining a couple of the mixture screws getting them out and some of the bowl gaskets might not come off to clean and you'll be glad you have the kits + alot of other new small parts that you'll enjoy. If you look on Ebay, there is one of the vendors that sells the K&L carb kits for about $60 for all four. Some folks might say your wasting your money on these but, not me. I can here them lauging now. :lol: :lol:
If you think you might want to install a Dynojet kit or go up a size or 2 on main jets because of a pipe change or air filter mod then this is the time to do it. Don't get in a big rush. Take your time and do it right and it will be rewarding even if it takes you more then a few evenings. As already stated some of the phillips head screws on the long gang plate that holds the carbs together can be a beast to get off. I had to use some slim nose visegrips to get some of those off. It can also be a bear getting your airbox boots to seal around the back of the carb throats when you put them back on too. That made a pod filter set up real inviting to me but, you might not want to listen to much to me. :lol: Just throwing in my 2 cents.
Good luck to you!!
carbs. Like Steve says, it will depend on how long you soak your carbs and how hard the mixture screws are to get out. :wink: When removing the screws, just bore into the plug no more then you have too to pry it out. If you bore to far, you'll chew up the top of the mixture screw which inturn will make it even harder to get it out even with a good screwdriver.
I myself am glad that I had 4 of the K&L carb kits to install during my clean and rebuild. If you don't have these kits + the orings from Robert Barr a guy on the forum (assuming you have the 1980 or later CV carbs which you may or may not), you might end up disappointed with the outcome if you end up with vacuum leaks. I would also reccomend pulling the intake boots off for inspection of dry rot and cracking + I would for sure install new orings between the boots and itake ports with some hi temp grease on the orings.
If your like me, you might end up ruining a couple of the mixture screws getting them out and some of the bowl gaskets might not come off to clean and you'll be glad you have the kits + alot of other new small parts that you'll enjoy. If you look on Ebay, there is one of the vendors that sells the K&L carb kits for about $60 for all four. Some folks might say your wasting your money on these but, not me. I can here them lauging now. :lol: :lol:
If you think you might want to install a Dynojet kit or go up a size or 2 on main jets because of a pipe change or air filter mod then this is the time to do it. Don't get in a big rush. Take your time and do it right and it will be rewarding even if it takes you more then a few evenings. As already stated some of the phillips head screws on the long gang plate that holds the carbs together can be a beast to get off. I had to use some slim nose visegrips to get some of those off. It can also be a bear getting your airbox boots to seal around the back of the carb throats when you put them back on too. That made a pod filter set up real inviting to me but, you might not want to listen to much to me. :lol: Just throwing in my 2 cents.
Good luck to you!!
A few thoughts come to mind. Do you have a good manual so you can set the floats, manual synch', etc? Don't mix ANY parts up such as float needle valves and seats. Keep everything in exact order, by carb #. Count the number of turns your mixture screws are set at for each carb. Don't get cleaner on any rubber parts/o-rings you plan to re-use. Don't over tighten the various small hardware inside and outside of carbs. Take as much time as you like. You'll need a vacuum tool to final synch' the carbs. Good luck!
S
SqDancerLynn1
Guest
One thing I find helpfull is to get 4 disposable glad containers to keep the parts seperate. Use caution removing the mix screws and the float hinge pins USE the proper size screwdrivers
A
Anonymous
Guest
thanks for the advice, and yes i bought a manual for my bike off ebay. it should be here in a week.
H
Hotblack
Guest
I find egg cartons to be the cat's banana for keeping carb parts organized. I use the paper ones, I bet the styrofoam ones don't put up with gasoline or carb cleaner too well.
W
whodatpat
Guest
What Carb Manual?
What Carb Manual?
I have a basic owners manual, and the Cliemer manual, but I cant find any of these settings. I am getting ready to follow the infamous GS card rebuild guide for my 1980 GS850G. I don't know what the float and other settings are supposed to be. I was planning on taking pictures and copious notes of where they all are when I get started and put it back the same. Any better ideas, or beter documentation on these fine settings would be appreciated.
What Carb Manual?
I have a basic owners manual, and the Cliemer manual, but I cant find any of these settings. I am getting ready to follow the infamous GS card rebuild guide for my 1980 GS850G. I don't know what the float and other settings are supposed to be. I was planning on taking pictures and copious notes of where they all are when I get started and put it back the same. Any better ideas, or beter documentation on these fine settings would be appreciated.