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Easy Spark Plug Question - GS1100E

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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Due to circumstances beyond my control, my bike has been down longer than usual this winter/spring (about 7 months), although it is stored under ideal conditions with new oil, dry carbs, and stabilized gas. As such, I want to pull the newish plugs and put a little fogging oil in there before I start this thing up.

I usually only pull the plugs to replace them with new ones, so I need to ask: I'll mark their positions before I pull them out, but I wonder how far to crank 'em down once finger tight, or just match where they were? Thanks in advance.
 
Hey, considering that we're a pretty civil bunch, and because we'd be quick to let the moderators know about any problem posts, do we really need to ##### crosshatch out any part of any word that might be nasty? What do you think?

Yeah, I know: Hay is for horses!
 
my method for plugs has always been the same for any plug that i remove and replace after they have been installed the first time. ((A drop of oil on the threads, screw them in till they are snug then give a one time push on the wrench)). You are not trying to move the plug tighter just tighten it a little more than snug. The only time I turn the plug further than snug is on the first time installation. I believe that 1/2 turn is what is recommended at that point. One other note. There are usually torque specs for plugs in the service manuals.
 
Chances are that the plugs will not line up at the same place that you marked for the same torque. The washer that comes with most plugs deforms to provide a better seal when you tighten the plug so the thickness changes with each tightening.

I agree with Scottie. But would like to add that I try only to install and remove plugs on a cold engine. This is probably over kill but after stripping the threads out of a few aluminum heads on hot two strokes I tend to treat the threads as gently as possible.

Mike
 
mdole said:
Chances are that the plugs will not line up at the same place that you marked for the same torque. The washer that comes with most plugs deforms to provide a better seal when you tighten the plug so the thickness changes with each tightening.

I agree with Scottie. But would like to add that I try only to install and remove plugs on a cold engine. This is probably over kill but after stripping the threads out of a few aluminum heads on hot two strokes I tend to treat the threads as gently as possible.

Mike
Click to expand...
Mike, I am wondering if any one uses anti sieze compound on spark plugs. i use it to lube my shift mechanism shaft.
 
I use a little bit on the plug on the Reflex. I ride trials on it as the backup bike and it has a steel insert for the plug threads that I worry about galling. I typically don't on the other trials bikes with aluminum heads.

I haven't had much trouble on street bikes, as they are not exposed to such harsh treatment. (Run hot at low speed and shocked with water, covered in mud and whatever else we ride through.)

Mike
 
I allways use copper paste on the sparkplug threads and the exhaust bolts and any other bolt that gets hot when running.
 
robinjo said:
I allways use copper paste on the sparkplug threads and the exhaust bolts and any other bolt that gets hot when running.
Click to expand...
I dont remember ever seeing copper paste. Where did you buy it. I was away from messing with engines for about 20 years before i got back to bikes a few years ago. I always say i was riding for over 40 years but there were definite gaps in between.
 
I use anti-seize lube on just about every threaded fastener and plugs that are on my bike. Just a little insurance.
 
Useing a torque wrench takes all the guess work out of it. What usually "feels" about right is almost always overtight.
 
slopoke said:
robinjo said:
I allways use copper paste on the sparkplug threads and the exhaust bolts and any other bolt that gets hot when running.
Click to expand...
I dont remember ever seeing copper paste. Where did you buy it. I was away from messing with engines for about 20 years before i got back to bikes a few years ago. I always say i was riding for over 40 years but there were definite gaps in between.
Click to expand...

My copper paste comes in a tube and is made by "Liqui Moly". Bought it at the local bikeshop, I guess Neverseiz works just as well though.
 
I looked for a torque spec in my Suzuki manual without success. I anticipated I would have had some trouble getting a torque wrench/extension to the middle two plugs without taking the tank off. Anyway, I snugged 'em back up good. I took the bike for a 45 minute ride split between city and highway, and it ran like a champ.

Now I'm set for 400 miles next weekend on the Cascade Loop in Washington State!

Thanks for all your help. Pray for good weather.
 
I've never used a torque wrench to install spark plugs. I thread the plugs all the way down to snug with my fingers, a plug socket and short extension (no ratchet). Then I clip on a 1/4" drive ratchetf (I leave the gas tank in place) and seat the plugs lightly with two fingers as I reach under the tank. Just guessing, I probably torque my plugs to about 2 pounds max. I've never had one come loose. With new plugs and the 1/4" drive ratchet, you can feel the compression ring squish and then go snug. I stop when it goes snug.

I dont believe spark plugs should ever be started with a wrench/ratchet.
If you start them with your fingers, you'll probably never suffer a cross threaded plug. :-)


Earl


Al Munro said:
I looked for a torque spec in my Suzuki manual without success. I anticipated I would have had some trouble getting a torque wrench/extension to the middle two plugs without taking the tank off. Anyway, I snugged 'em back up good. I took the bike for a 45 minute ride split between city and highway, and it ran like a champ.

Now I'm set for 400 miles next weekend on the Cascade Loop in Washington State!

Thanks for all your help. Pray for good weather.
Click to expand...
 
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