Electric connector help

[Argee]

Ladies and Gents,
Do any of you know the designation of the electrical connectors shown in the photos below and where I can get some replacements?
They're from my 1982 GS1100GL.

Many thanks,

(Ah, it seems I can only attach the one image, so you won't be able to see how melted the other side of it is....or that it is about 19.0 mm long and about 12.2 mm wide.):

 

[Nessism]

There is a site called vintage connector or something to this effect. Google should find it for you.

Most likely that connector melted because it's carrying charging system current up to the hand control and back. You may want to bypass that mess. Check the Newbie Mistakes thread linked in my signature for more info.

 

[Guest]

Something like this?

http://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Products/4W-CNA-NAT

They have a whole range of connectors - have a look through.

 

[bwringer]

These sites may be helpful:

http://vintageconnections.com/ <== visit the "kits" page for connector kits. On the "Order" page you can see and order individual connectors and terminals. There's a $10 minimum order. This site is very confusing but very useful.

This is a shop here in Indy that sells connectors:
https://newmotorcycleparts.net/electrical/connectors.html


https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/connectors.html
These are mostly connectors used on more modern bikes.


But to be honest, 99.5% of us would replace that gawdawful mess with individual spade terminals crimped with a high-quality ratcheting crimper tool (NEVER soldered) and sealed with adhesive-lined heat shrink. Those particular wires are somewhat undersized for the current they're carrying, and the open connector invites corrosion to set in. Terminals corrode, resistance goes up, they get hot, and things melt. Unless it's too melted, you can release the terminals from the connector shell with a thin tool to release the locking tab on the terminal.

The .05% of us left over would replace these with modern sealed Weatherpack or Deutsch connectors and terminals. Here's nice kit to give you the idea:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LBRWZVC/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1

 

[Argee]

Thanks Ed - as always!
I've had a look at the newbie mistakes and will definitely check for/make a dedicated battery ground when I get back out to the garage.
I'm wondering if the melted block is old damage, as when I first got the bike, the stator and r/r were both blown. After studying the 1100GL wiring diagram (Thanks BassCliff!) I'm struggling to work out if there's a path for charging system current to go to the hand control and how I might bypass it.

 

[Argee]

Thanks Steveb922 - They look perfect, and a local supplier too!

 

[Argee]

Thanks bwringer! Some great websites there and some very useful information!
I tend to use a mechanical crimper and run some solder into the joint too. Does your 'NEVER soldered' comment mean 'never only soldered'?....or is there something about soldering electrical connectors that I should know about?

 

[Guest]

The problem with soldering connectors is that the solder tends to run back up the cable, beyond the joint. This leads to a 'stiff' area, which is liable to break up under the stress of normal movement.

 

[bobgroger]

I think what you want is this: http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/CNA250-TL/cna250-tl.html

 

[Argee]

Many thanks all! I now have a suitable connector winging its way to me - well, it will be from 3rd Jan!

Happy New Year to you all!