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Electrical Question...again

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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Anonymous

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OK,

I read the Stator papers, which are very good, and I ran the diagnostics with a known good multimeter, but had mixed results.

The battery is new and holds 12.4 V for an inordinate amount of time while wired to the bike...so I am assuming 1. it is a good battery, and 2. there are no bad grounds on the wiring harness when the bike is off.

I start the bike and the battery voltage drops to like 11V, but then steadies out at 11.5V, but does not show the 13.5V at 2500 RPM as the Stator papers indicate it should.

Move on to RR test....I am not showing any where near the voltage indicated in the Stator papers...but I could be connecting the wires incorrrectly.

Can anyone point me in the right direction...and does it sound like I have a bad stator/rotor, or bad RR???

Thanks,
Erik.
 
Re: Electrical Question...again

You have a three phase stator that produces 80 volts AC on each phase. There are three yellow wires coming from the stator that plug into the regulator/rectifier. Disconnect the yellow wires from the R/R. Set your multimeter to AC 200v. Connect the multimeter probes to two of the yellow wires. If the wires were 1,2 and 3, then you would connect the meter probes first to 1 and 2. Next to 1 and 3. next to 2 and 3.
(JUST IN CASE :-)........ in connecting the 1 and 2 example, put the red meter probe on wire 1 and the black meter probe on wire 2.)

Some people have been known to put the red test lead on one yellow wire at a time with the black meter lead to ground. heh heh ......it doesnt work that way.


Each leg should read 80v or slightly more. (mine reades 81v) The bike must be running when you do this test. With the meter probes connected, running the rpm momentarily up to 4K or so should be plenty. If all three legs of the stator read close to 80V, the stator is OK.

If the stator is OK, reconnect it to the R/R. Start the bike and with the rpm about 2000-2500, the DC voltage measured at the battery terminals should be 13-13.5 volts. Then rev the engine to 4500-5000 rpm and the voltage should read close to 14.5. My 750 has a max charge voltage of about 14 V and my 1150 has a max charge voltage of about 14.8. Neither bike has a battery maintenance problem, so I am inclined to believe anything between 14v to 14.8 is a workable value. The normal rate cited is 14.5. If you so not show the correct DC voltages at the battery terminal and your stator shows an output of 80v on each leg, then the problem is a faulty regulator.rectifier.

Earl

mowog77 said:
OK,

I read the Stator papers, which are very good, and I ran the diagnostics with a known good multimeter, but had mixed results.

The battery is new and holds 12.4 V for an inordinate amount of time while wired to the bike...so I am assuming 1. it is a good battery, and 2. there are no bad grounds on the wiring harness when the bike is off.

I start the bike and the battery voltage drops to like 11V, but then steadies out at 11.5V, but does not show the 13.5V at 2500 RPM as the Stator papers indicate it should.

Move on to RR test....I am not showing any where near the voltage indicated in the Stator papers...but I could be connecting the wires incorrrectly.

Can anyone point me in the right direction...and does it sound like I have a bad stator/rotor, or bad RR???

Thanks,
Erik.
Click to expand...
 
You can check you regulator/rectifier by following the Suzuki procedure below. You need to get numbers within range.

With the r/r removed from the bike, fins pointing up and terminals facing you, the terminals from left to right will be A, B, C, D, and E.
Negative probe on A and positive on B you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on C you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on D you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on E you should get 50-70 ohms.

Then switch the negative probe to terminal B and place the positive probe on A, C, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to C and positive to A, B, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to D and positive to A, B, then C, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to E, positive to A, B, C, and D should give no reading.
 
I know this is redundant but I wrote it then got kicked off before I could post it and Earl and Billy beat me to it...

You have a problem, no doubt. I would:
1. Disconnect the stator wires (three of them) from the rect/reg.

2. Label one of the stator wires "A", another "B", and the third "C".

3. Set your volt/ohm meter to ohms, the scale should be less than 20 ohms if you have it.

3. With the motor not running, measure the resistance between wire "A" and wire "B". Should be just a few ohms of resistance...if it is infinity, then the stator is open and needs to be replaced.

4. Measure the resistance between wire "A" and wire "C". Should be just a few ohms of resistance...if it is infinity, then the stator is open and needs to be replaced.

5. Measure the resistance between wire "C" and wire "B". Should be just a few ohms of resistance...if it is infinity, then the stator is open and needs to be replaced.

6. Set you volt/ohm meter to read A/C volts, 200V range

7. Start the motor, then rev it to 5000 RPM and while holding the rpms at 5000 measure the voltage between "A" and "B", "A" and "C", and ""B": and "C". They should read between 80 and 90 volts. If not, the stator is bad.

8. If the stator passes the above tests, then you have problems with the rect/reg (replace it with an Electrex unit) or you need better grounds between the battery and frame, engine and frame, and the fuse box and frame.

Hap
Billy and Earl are sooooooo sneaky!!!!
 
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