• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Electrical Question

  • Thread starter Thread starter Stryfe
  • Start date Start date
S

Stryfe

Guest
I have a 1980 gs850gl with a starting problem, before if you used the factory start button it would blow a fuse. But after I tracked down and replaced a faulty wire, cleaned the contacts for the start button, resoldered the wires to the kill switch (po had cut them and spliced them together), also bypassed the ignition shut off switch that's on the clutch handle (didn't want to tear apart the harness to find it, so ran starter y/g wire from the starter relay to the start button) I was able to start it a few times with the factory button. But the last time I turned it of with the kill switch just to make sure it was working and now it will not start.

Checked the wires in the start system by the wiring diagram and I have continuity so no breaks or shorts, but the weird thing is I have power going into the kill switch but doesn't seem like it's going out to the start button when it's in the run position, but I do have continuity across the kill switch when it's in the run position.

Anybody have any other ideas or things to check?

TIA
 
The starter circuit has nothing to do with the ignition circuit. i.e., The starter button has nothing to do with the kill switch they are isolated from each other. The clutch switch breaks continuity on the starter circuit untile the clutch lever is pulled and then there is continuity to the yellow/green wire that runs to the solenoid to activate it. Remove the yellow green wire from the solenoid and put the multimeter red lead into the end of the wire, the black lead to ground or battery neg. Press the starter button. If the circuit is working properly, you should see 12+ volts everytime you press the starter button. The clutch switch can be bypassed (the leads going to it connected) and the starter circuit will work the same, without the lockout function.

The kill switch, when in the off position breaks continuity to the ignition system (coils). If you had the kill switch wired to break continuity in the starter circuit, you could not turn the engine off with it. You would not be able to start the engine, but once running, it would do nothing since it was not connected to the ignition in the first place and the starter is normally inoperative when the engine is running.

The problem is in how you have your kill switch wired. You have an ignition circuit problem. Disconnect the kill switch from any contact with the starter function. The output on the kill switch is an ignition supply wire. You should have (have caused to have) an unused lead in the right handlebar switch assembly that is the power supply for the ignition. Reconnect it to the output side of the kill switch.

Earl



Stryfe said:
I have a 1980 gs850gl with a starting problem, before if you used the factory start button it would blow a fuse. But after I tracked down and replaced a faulty wire, cleaned the contacts for the start button, resoldered the wires to the kill switch (po had cut them and spliced them together), also bypassed the ignition shut off switch that's on the clutch handle (didn't want to tear apart the harness to find it, so ran starter y/g wire from the starter relay to the start button) I was able to start it a few times with the factory button. But the last time I turned it of with the kill switch just to make sure it was working and now it will not start.

Checked the wires in the start system by the wiring diagram and I have continuity so no breaks or shorts, but the weird thing is I have power going into the kill switch but doesn't seem like it's going out to the start button when it's in the run position, but I do have continuity across the kill switch when it's in the run position.

Anybody have any other ideas or things to check?

TIA
Click to expand...
 
earlfor said:
The starter circuit has nothing to do with the ignition circuit. i.e., The starter button has nothing to do with the kill switch they are isolated from each other. The clutch switch breaks continuity on the starter circuit untile the clutch lever is pulled and then there is continuity to the yellow/green wire that runs to the solenoid to activate it. Remove the yellow green wire from the solenoid and put the multimeter red lead into the end of the wire, the black lead to ground or battery neg. Press the starter button. If the circuit is working properly, you should see 12+ volts everytime you press the starter button. The clutch switch can be bypassed (the leads going to it connected) and the starter circuit will work the same, without the lockout function.

The kill switch, when in the off position breaks continuity to the ignition system (coils). If you had the kill switch wired to break continuity in the starter circuit, you could not turn the engine off with it. You would not be able to start the engine, but once running, it would do nothing since it was not connected to the ignition in the first place and the starter is normally inoperative when the engine is running.

The problem is in how you have your kill switch wired. You have an ignition circuit problem. Disconnect the kill switch from any contact with the starter function. The output on the kill switch is an ignition supply wire. You should have (have caused to have) an unused lead in the right handlebar switch assembly that is the power supply for the ignition. Reconnect it to the output side of the kill switch.

Earl
Click to expand...

I suspect it may vary by model or year, but his kill switch wiring may be ok.

I haven't messed with mine so I don't know how it is actually routed, but the book shows BOTH the starter button and coils being powered through the kill switch.
 
I expect there would be some variance as with many other things from model to model, year/year. I've never come across one with the two functions together, but then, we're talking about 25 year old bikes and we're owner number 100 or something. :-) I'm more oriented towards telling someone something that works and will simplify the process of solving the problem as opposed to strictly following a preset route. I'm not sticky about staying inside the box. :-)

Earl


bakalorz said:
I suspect it may vary by model or year, but his kill switch wiring may be ok.

I haven't messed with mine so I don't know how it is actually routed, but the book shows BOTH the starter button and coils being powered through the kill switch.
Click to expand...
 
The way the bike is wired and going by the wiring diagram once the key is turned to the on position the o/w wire going from the fuse box to the kill switch right above the start button is supplied with power, once the kill switch is turned to the run position power is suppose to run through it to the start button below it that has 2 o/w wires soldered to it, one coming from the kill switch the other going to the coils and then on to the ignitor. On the same pcb as the starter button is another contact that originally ran to the starter shut off switch and then to the starter relay, which was the g/y wire, but now is bypassed straight to the starter relay. Once the button is pushed the contact inside the switch bridges the two contact points and supplies power to the starter relay. But since I only checked the harness connectors at the coils for continuity maybe the short is at where the wires connect on the coils. Any suggestion on getting that epoxy looking stuff off of were the wires connect to the coils.

Also how many volts should be getting from the fuse box to the kill switch once the key is in the run position, I'm only getting a max of between 6-7 volts?
 
bakalorz said:
I suspect it may vary by model or year, but his kill switch wiring may be ok.

I haven't messed with mine so I don't know how it is actually routed, but the book shows BOTH the starter button and coils being powered through the kill switch.
Click to expand...

very true :-D
(i have the 80 850 as well)
 
Stryfe said:
Also how many volts should be getting from the fuse box to the kill switch once the key is in the run position, I'm only getting a max of between 6-7 volts?
Click to expand...

12v?
that's what you want on the coils and in the factory setup the wire for the coils goes through the killswitch

i would try to clean all the connections to the kill switch, the fuse box in particular
 
Stryfe said:
But since I only checked the harness connectors at the coils for continuity maybe the short is at where the wires connect on the coils. Any suggestion on getting that epoxy looking stuff off of were the wires connect to the coils.
do you get the power on these connectors?
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
Stryfe said:
the weird thing is I have power going into the kill switch but doesn't seem like it's going out to the start button when it's in the run position
Click to expand...

sounds too simple, but this seems to be your main problem...
 
Well I fell pretty dumb today, but I figured I would throw the batt on the charger last night while I went and played in my pool tournament berfore I tore into the harness today (so glad I did). Turned it on today hit the button and walla turned over, lol.

As soon as my intake parts get here (suzuki is not very fast on shipping unless you want to fork over a mint in shipping charges) I can redo the charging system check, also looks like I might need a new batt, one of the cells is starting to boil over a bit while charging.

but I do appreciate all the suggestions and feedback.

thanxs again
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top