Electrolysis for rusty parts....

[Nessism]

Waiting for the "after" photos...

 

[tkent02]

Waiting for the "after" photos...

After:

Some of the paint came off in the water, more when I was scrubbing off the frame afterward, so I spent a half hour with some paint remover and steel wool removing more of it. The frame had no primer, just one thin layer of hard black paint. Easy stuff to remove.

 

[49er]

Can this be used to remove ali oxide? If so, I guess you may need a different salt other than Sodium bi carbonate!

BTW, the stock bore size for the 850 is 69 mm, not 89 mm.

 

[tkent02]

Can this be used to remove ali oxide? If so, I guess you may need a different salt other than Sodium bi carbonate!

BTW, the stock bore size for the 850 is 69 mm, not 89 mm.

I think so, google it. This guy thinks you can clean a lot of different materials. This is from cliff's site:

http://users.eastlink.ca/~pspencer/nsaeta/electrolysis.html

There's a lot of info on the internet and some on cliff's site. The electrolyte doesn't matter, it just lets the electricity flow so it can do it's work. It's the current flow that does it. Carbonate of soda works better than bicarbonate of soda, it's less corrosive. But salt, vinegar, detergent, anything that will let the water conduct electricity will work.

I am thinking of trying an acidic electrolyte, to see if combining electrolysis with acid dipping might work better on the rust than either method alone.

I don't know what that bore size stuff is doing on an electrolysis thread, it's on there from a threadjack from last year.

 

[tkent02]

More info, apparently I've been doing it wrong...

http://www.rickswoodshopcreations.com/Miscellaneous/Rust_Removal.htm

 

[49er]

More info, apparently I've been doing it wrong...

http://www.rickswoodshopcreations.com/Miscellaneous/Rust_Removal.htm

What a pity. It appears that Ali is out of the equation!!

Perhaps a little more research (thinking outside the square), is in order.

Don't you just love chemistry? Could be a hazardous assignment though.

 

[Planecrazy]

Very impressive ... looking good, Pal!

Regards,

 

[Guest]

Sorta makes me wanna go find rusty bits just to try it for myself...

 

[48woody]

A question about cleaning gas tanks. would you have to put the anode inside the tank, maybe using a rubber stopper the size of the filler hole with 2 holes in it. one for the anode, the rubber keeping it from touching the metal of the tank, and the 2nd for gases to escape. something like might be used in a HS Chemistry class. Or would the inside get cleaned with the anode outside the tank.

 

[tkent02]

No, the anode needs to be inside, and it should be as far back in there as you can get it, as most of the rust is in the bottom rear of the tank. I use anodes of several different shapes, one at a time into every corner of the tank it can get to. Then another anode in the petcock hole to get the back of the tank, with a piece of plywood to hold the anode in place. I do one straight forward up the left side of the tank, and then one going up and over the hump into the other side of the tank. If the tank has a gas gauge sender hole, you can use that to run another anode in that side at the same time. It takes a long time to get a whole tank truly clean.

I have a couple of tanks to do the next few days, I'll try to get some pics.

 

[cowboyup3371]

This article said it wasn't good for aluminum parts. What kind of metal is the chain cover? I'm thinking I want to throw my foot peg mounts as well as the chain cover in a tub to clean them up. Will that work?

 

[Nessism]

Hey Tom, If you decide to paint that frame yourself when you are done I've read lots of good stuff about this Master Series paint. http://www.masterseriesct.com/ It's reputed to stick to the metal better than POR-15 paint and really locks down any rust that tends to lurk in those nooks and cranies. They also make some two part top coats that go down over the primer material. Pretty cheap too.