Eliminating duh loops

[Good Times]

Ok still working on my harness....

I have a yellow/green wire that starts here by the stator wires:

Runs up through the harness into the headlight and joins at a bullet connector:

And then loops back through the harness to the 9 pin connector under the tank that runs through the starter switch.

I can't see any reason for the loop and am thinking it is another situation like the stator loop that ran through the same connector.

Any reason I shouldn't eliminate the part of the loop that runs through the headlight and just run it straight to the connector?

 

[duaneage]

That connector needs to go. See how melted it is? Whack it and replace with female bullet connectors and use male on the stator leads.

See my write up in the sig line below.

That molex is the worst idea ever. It concentrates the heat from all those wires in one place and this is the result

 

[Killer2600]

Ok still working on my harness....

I have a yellow/green wire that starts here by the stator wires:

Runs up through the harness into the headlight and joins at a bullet connector:

And then loops back through the harness to the 9 pin connector under the tank that runs through the starter switch.

I can't see any reason for the loop and am thinking it is another situation like the stator loop that ran through the same connector.

Any reason I shouldn't eliminate the part of the loop that runs through the headlight and just run it straight to the connector?

Without checking wire color code, I'd say that the loop in the bucket is your clutch safety switch which someone has bypassed. In stock form these zuki's won't crank with the clutch released, so if you can start your bike one handed that's most likely what your looking at.

 

[Dogma]

According to the diagram in the Clymer manual (don't you have a diagram?), that was for the kick stand safety switch. Not a bad thing to have, if you have the switch in good working order or can add one. Everyone forgets the kick stand at least one in a while, and it can be very dangerous. I don't have that feature on my '80 bikes, and sorta wish I did. A PO probably eliminated it when the switch went bad and prevented the bike from starting.

The clutch safety switch I have eliminated by bypassing the loop to the left controls in the headlight bucket. The switch (which is similar to the flaky brake light switch on the right controls) has been removed entirely.

 

[Good Times]

According to the diagram in the Clymer manual (don't you have a diagram?), that was for the kick stand safety switch. Not a bad thing to have, if you have the switch in good working order or can add one. Everyone forgets the kick stand at least one in a while, and it can be very dangerous. I don't have that feature on my '80 bikes, and sorta wish I did. A PO probably eliminated it when the switch went bad and prevented the bike from starting.

The clutch safety switch I have eliminated by bypassing the loop to the left controls in the headlight bucket. The switch (which is similar to the flaky brake light switch on the right controls) has been removed entirely.

Yep, I have a diagram and know what it goes to. I am wondering if shortening the circuit from the bullet connector (to be replaced) to the 9 pin connector by eliminating the loop that goes through the headlight would cause any problem. I don't see why it has to run through the headlight and then back to the 9 pin connector.

It looks like it used to connect to something in the headlight but that connection was eliminated for some reason in the US market so they just used a connector in the headlight housing and kept the loop that runs back to the 9 pin.

 

[Dogma]

Oh. No problem doing that. If I remember correctly, the clutch and kick stand safety switches were in the same loop. Something used to be in the headlight bucket? That would have been the clutch safety switch. Maybe that was replaced by a neutral safety switch on yours? Anyhow, the switches have to close to enable the bike to run, so if the switch fails, it fails safe (safe to the rider: no run). Cutting out the switches and shortening the loop will leave the engine enabled to run as long as the kill switch is set to run. No danger to the electrics. But you may have a moment if you leave the kickstand down, or start in gear, etc.

 

[Good Times]

My side stand switch in non operational. No wires on the switch. Was like that when I bought it. I would actually like to repair or replace it.

 

[Killer2600]

According to the diagram in the Clymer manual (don't you have a diagram?), that was for the kick stand safety switch. Not a bad thing to have, if you have the switch in good working order or can add one. Everyone forgets the kick stand at least one in a while, and it can be very dangerous. I don't have that feature on my '80 bikes, and sorta wish I did. A PO probably eliminated it when the switch went bad and prevented the bike from starting.

The clutch safety switch I have eliminated by bypassing the loop to the left controls in the headlight bucket. The switch (which is similar to the flaky brake light switch on the right controls) has been removed entirely.

What bike is this that has a kickstand safety switch? I don't think any of these old zukes had safety interlocks on the kickstand.

It's better to not needlessly cut up the stock wiring, the next owner or yourself in the future may find the undiagrammed wiring to be a hassle of a mess.

 

[Good Times]

What bike is this that has a kickstand safety switch? I don't think any of these old zukes had safety interlocks on the kickstand.

It's better to not needlessly cut up the stock wiring, the next owner or yourself in the future may find the undiagrammed wiring to be a hassle of a mess.

82 850gl


It has a safety switch that triggers a dummy light if the stand is still down. Not sure if t cuts the ignition as mine has never functioned.

Not cutting it up, just eliminating unnecessary loops. Still using stock colors and it will still function the same as OEM. There are two circuits that have unnecessary wire. There is a stator loop that when removed saves your harness from potentially being burned up. It's just a loop of wire that runs through the harness and if the connectors get dirty then the wire burns up. Mine was fried, but did not damage anything else. This is s.o.p. when reworking the harness.

The other is the loop mentioned in this thread. Since I'm replacing connectors it's no problem to shorten the wire by about 2 feet. It doesn't change the circuit. It just eliminates wire and a bullet connector in the headlight that could potentially burn up. It will still begin and end in the same place on the wiring diagram.

 

[Steve]

Without checking wire color code, I'd say that the loop in the bucket is your clutch safety switch which someone has bypassed.

Yep, it's the wiring for the "safety" switch in the clutch.

I am wondering if shortening the circuit from the bullet connector (to be replaced) to the 9 pin connector by eliminating the loop that goes through the headlight would cause any problem. I don't see why it has to run through the headlight and then back to the 9 pin connector.

It ran through the headlight bucket because that is where the wires were that came from the clutch switch.

You can streamline the wiring as you wish. As you have seen in your wiring diagram, that wire can (and should) go straight from your starter button to the starter solenoid.

What bike is this that has a kickstand safety switch? I don't think any of these old zukes had safety interlocks on the kickstand.

There are no kickstand interlocks on GS bikes.

The kickstand switch only turns on a light in the tachometer.

.

 

[Good Times]

Should I have a clutch safety switch? I thought the connector in the headlight looked stock.


Edit...... never mind. Just searched and read up on the clutch safety "feature." No I don't need it.

I now understand one more thing about my bike. Sweet.