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Engine Brake-in

  • Thread starter Thread starter rider929
  • Start date Start date
R

rider929

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I did a search but didn't see anything related to this question. Who can tell me what the proper brake-in is for a 1980 GS850G? I ask this because I have one that has only 67 miles on it. Being almost 30 years old I don't want to risk damage to the motor. What should I limit the RPM's to and for how long etc. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
 
Change the oil & filter first, replace the oil with a GOOD, NON synthetic oil & go beat the crap out of it, ride it up to redline in the first 3 gears a couple of dozen times. After 600 miles, pull the valve cover, re-torque the head, check & if needed adjust the valves, & change the oil & filter again. Then ride it, love it, race it, cruise it, polish it, & enjoy it! Just don't CRASH it!!! Ray.
 
rapidray said:
Change the oil & filter first, replace the oil with a GOOD, NON synthetic oil & go beat the crap out of it, ride it up to redline in the first 3 gears a couple of dozen times. After 600 miles, pull the valve cover, re-torque the head, check & if needed adjust the valves, & change the oil & filter again. Then ride it, love it, race it, cruise it, polish it, & enjoy it! Just don't CRASH it!!! Ray.
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EWWW, I forgot all the important stuff.
:o
 
My opinion is to ride the bike in the city for a while and use the throttle liberally. Worst things you can do is hold a light, steady throttle or lug the engine; vary engine load and rpm. Use the engine but I don’t think there is any real need to beat on it.
 
Ed, you need to go read MotoTune! I'll try to find the linc & attach it here for you to read & be educated. Ray.
 
Nessism said:
My opinion is to ride the bike in the city for a while and use the throttle liberally. Worst things you can do is hold a light, steady throttle or lug the engine; vary engine load and rpm. Use the engine but I don?t think there is any real need to beat on it.
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I'm with Ed

Ride somewhere where you can vary rpms to load and unload the rings. You can run it up to redline occasionally or down shift for engine braking

Ring seating is the main issue. Not much break in with a roller crank

Then service it at 600 miles at let r rip!
 
A nice brisk ride up one of my local canyons works really well.
On and off the throttle, constantly varying RPM, what's important is a lot of open and closed throttle. Do what the Mototune guy says.

For you flatlanders, go out at about three thirty in the morning when there are no cops or traffic and act like you are blasting up my local canyon.

The only reason the owners manuals say to baby the engines is so stupid kids don't all dump their fast new bikes before they even get them home from the dealership.
 
I've seen that mototune link before and while there is some value to the approach, I don't buy into it fully. Vary the rpm and load, and work your way up the rpm range as you accumulate mileage, and I believe you will be good to go.
 
tkent02 said:
The only reason the owners manuals say to baby the engines is so stupid kids don't all dump their fast new bikes before they even get them home from the dealership.
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I have heard this from a few people. The slight increases in max RPM as you get more miles on the bike is so the newb can slowly learn to ride. If you know what your doing already, happily thrash away, the bike can take it.
 
Bruin said:
I have heard this from a few people. The slight increases in max RPM as you get more miles on the bike is so the newb can slowly learn to ride. If you know what your doing already, happily thrash away, the bike can take it.
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Although I don't know that the really high RPMs early on are helpful, I DO know that getting the engine into it's "happy range" and letting it run is.
 
Do any of you know how RACE engines are broken in? On the race track at HIGH rpm! My motors get heat cycled 3 times & then the head re-torqued. After that, & new oil, they are off to the race track & a lot of rpm! Ring seal is done, engines run good! The motor in my dragbike right now went together in Feb. of 04 & hasn't been apart at all. Still LESS than 2% leakdown straight across! Ray.
 
rapidray said:
Do any of you know how RACE engines are broken in? On the race track at HIGH rpm! My motors get heat cycled 3 times & then the head re-torqued. After that, & new oil, they are off to the race track & a lot of rpm! Ring seal is done, engines run good! The motor in my dragbike right now went together in Feb. of 04 & hasn't been apart at all. Still LESS than 2% leakdown straight across! Ray.
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That's impressive for a race engine Ray. Many would need refreshing after 3 seasons. I guess that you've done all the mods you've planned for that setup!

I usually give a few more heat cycles than 3 on a road engine, but I guess the amount of heat build up is the key. If ambient air temps are lower and the redline isn't breached to often, the number of cycles can be increased before re-torquing. It's all about risk management though, isn't it?

That first oil change is really important too.
 
Thanks for all the replys.;) I have been working on it for a while trying to get it ready for the street. I didn't want to go out and do something stupid and undo all that prep work. :mad:Looks like I have a couple more issues to sort out. One sticky float and a bad fuel petcock. :confused:I was actually aiming for the week end of the 4th but it's not looking like it will happen. :(
 
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