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Engine Case Polishing

  • Thread starter Thread starter rickt
  • Start date Start date
R

rickt

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I've started removing pieces of the '78 GS750 for cleaning and metal polishing. I just got the left-side engine case off and want to prepare it for some time on the buffing wheel. In the past I have painfully sanded the polymer coating that was applied to most engine cases at the factory so that I could polish the alloy beneath. Has anyone tried to remove this coating with a solvent or maybe paint stripper? There are so many nooks and crannies on this case that it will take forever to remove the coating with sandpaper!

rickt
 
I bought and used an aerosol paint stripper from a hardware store to do mine.

Works like a charm just make sure you wear gloves and eye protection and are ready to wash the stuff off quickly.

I would suggest you be especially careful and quick when applying and removing the stuff near the clutch cover sight glass as it may or may not react with the adhesive used to put it in place.

It did no harm to mine but who is to say the same stuff was used in all model years in all production runs?
 
I have a friend that uses easy off oven cleaner, supposedly works great, I have only seen the finished product so I can't say how well it works but his end results are very nice.
 
aircraft paint stripper will take the clear coat off. Then lots of sanding and buffing with progresssively finer grit wet sand paper. There are actually a few threads on this subject, if you use the search feature. Here's one:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=104421&highlight=polished+engine+covers

Keith Krause and RenoBruce have the finest examples I've seen. Meaning no disrespect to other fine examples. Me, I cheated. I bought my polished covers from Katman!
HPIM0375.jpg

HPIM0377.jpg
 
Yep! Aircraft stripper works like a charm, as others noted. Good luck!
 
I have a friend that uses easy off oven cleaner, supposedly works great, I have only seen the finished product so I can't say how well it works but his end results are very nice.


I wouldn't use oven cleaner. It's main ingredient is lye or sodium hydroxide, which aggressively attacks aluminum and could even dissolve it some. I used to work in an aluminum die cast shop and at one time we used Caustic soda(sodium hydroxide) to clean built up aluminum residue off of our steel dies.

Use aircraft stripper as mentioned. Works great.
 
I had good results removing the coating with Klean Strip Premium Stripper from the hardware store.
 
Yes, thanks to all for the paint stripper recommendation. I have a fully equipped paint shop so the stripper is not problem. I have done a fair amount of automotive and bike metal polishing so I'm looking forward to creating a set of "super shiny" engine cases. I bought new circular Suzuki engine case emblems. What is the best way to remove the current emblems without marring the cases?

rickt
 
Polishing

Polishing

My polisher that went out of business unfortunately about 6 months ago used an aluminum aircraft stripper but I have no idea what the name of it was.It worked awesome.I have heard that a radiator shop has a tank that they can dip it in but I have not tried that route yet.
 
polishing

polishing

I forgot about your engine decal question.WD-40 works like a charm on any adhesive.Just peel a small area carefully and squirt WD behind the emblem until you work it off.
 
Yes, thanks to all for the paint stripper recommendation. I have a fully equipped paint shop so the stripper is not problem. I have done a fair amount of automotive and bike metal polishing so I'm looking forward to creating a set of "super shiny" engine cases. I bought new circular Suzuki engine case emblems. What is the best way to remove the current emblems without marring the cases?

rickt

Heat 'em up with a hair dryer. Use "goof off", or equivalent to remove the residue.
 
Diluted lye takes the coating off... I'm not sure if it would work on bike parts like that, but i've used it on the grill trim on my old ford
 
I would be a little wary of using oven clean (i.e. lye or sodium hydroxide). This chemical will actually dissolve metal. It works quite well for removing the anodized coating from aluminum automotive trim.

I used run-of-the-mill ZipStrip from the hardware store. The coating came off easily.

rickt
 
Good lookin out rickt, i wasnt positive what it might do to case covers and what not. Werked great for the trim like you said. Thanks for the heads up
 
You should put that in for bike of the month or has it already been. I just got a thing for the L's :-D
 
I tried once but the pic wasnt that good so I thinkI will ty again.It is an L and all original paint and clearcoat.Just put those progressive shocks on the back yesterday.Rides like brand new!I know it's my bike but it is the best looking L i've ever seen.
 
OK, how about the opposite....

Is there a way to reapply a clear coating after a part is highly polished, to protect the polished surface for several years?
 
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