A
Anonymous
Guest
What would you receomend to seal between the two engine case halves? I thinking the blue Permatex.
-
Required reading for all forum users!!!
Welcome!
Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.A note to new registrants...
All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.A Special Note about Email accounts!
DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.A note to old forum members...
I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.
Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...
-
Returning Visitors
If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.
If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.
F
focus frenzy
Guest
Yes, yamabond is great stuff perfect for assembling motorcycle engines. (that is what it was designed for) permatex grey also works very well, and may be the same as yamabond, another advatage of yamabond/permatex grey, is the color blends in with the color of cast aluminum.
yamabond makes a great gasket replacement, I had removed the side cover of my TT to repair a stripped oil filter cover bolt hole and needed a new gasket so I could ride the next day, the dealer didnt have a gasket and told me that I could make a gasket using yamabond.
I was scepticle but gave it a try, it workes perfectly still havnt put in a gasket and it dosnt leak 5 years later.
yamabond makes a great gasket replacement, I had removed the side cover of my TT to repair a stripped oil filter cover bolt hole and needed a new gasket so I could ride the next day, the dealer didnt have a gasket and told me that I could make a gasket using yamabond.
I was scepticle but gave it a try, it workes perfectly still havnt put in a gasket and it dosnt leak 5 years later.
M
moto_dan
Guest
I use Yamabond 4.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Thanks, I found a number of references to Yamabond on the net when I did search for it. None negative.
Apparently they make a 4, 5, two versions of 6, and a 7.
Looks like 4 is one to use for the engine case application?
Apparently they make a 4, 5, two versions of 6, and a 7.
Looks like 4 is one to use for the engine case application?
F
focus frenzy
Guest
I think it is yamabond 4 that I have used, great stuff
P
Paul
Guest
I use the Suzuki version called - ready for this - Suzukibond!, available from my local Suzuki dealer. It is a yellowy colour when you spill it (guess how I know that?), but when on a motor cannot be seen, any excess just wipe off.
I would guess that it is the same as Yammabond, I bet there is a Hondabond & a Kawabond as well!
It is expensive though it lasts a long time.
Paul
GS1000S, GS1000(s)....
I would guess that it is the same as Yammabond, I bet there is a Hondabond & a Kawabond as well!
It is expensive though it lasts a long time.
Paul
GS1000S, GS1000(s)....
A
Anonymous
Guest
Like everyone else, go with Yamabond. Stuff works great and its not a real standout colour.
A
Anonymous
Guest
I wonder what Harleybond might be useful for (hee hee).
P
Paul
Guest
Harley riders carry extra-large packs of loc-tite!
Paul
GS1000S
Paul
GS1000S
A
Anonymous
Guest
While we are on this subject. I have developed a leak in one spot on the front of my engine where the barrels meet the lower cases. I really dont want to take her apart yet. My friend told me that and old trick was to use a quality 2 part epoxy just in the area over the leak. Any comments suggestions warnings--anything. Has any one ever done this
P
Paul
Guest
I bought a GS1000 about 10 years ago that had a bad oil leak at the front joint between barrels & crankcases. The previous owner(s) had tried epoxy resin, silicon (instant gasket), aradite, Isopon resin. Nothing had worked, I lifted the barrels, cleaned all the s--t off, & rebuilt the engine. The hardest job was getting all the little bits off. Most of it came off in one or two big pieces because the oil film prevents the goo/glue/resin actually attaching to the metal of crankcase & barrels.
The best bit was that the engine was unmarked by corrosion!!
Paul
GS1000S, GS1000(s)...
The best bit was that the engine was unmarked by corrosion!!
Paul
GS1000S, GS1000(s)...
Yep Scotty, have a lot of experience with that sort of thing. 
J B Weld is a two part high temp epoxy filler, and will work just fine for that problem. There are a couple of things to consider. J B Weld normally takes about 6 hours to primary cure. Epoxies are absolutely intolerant of oil, or any greasy contamination. Not even a fingerprint is acceptable. The joint will have to be cleaned spotless and it cannot weep any oil for at least 6 hours while the epoxy is curing. Any oil that weeps after the compound is applied will form a microscopic barrier between the surface of the metal and the epoxy and it will not seal. The characteristics of epoxies in general can be modified by the ratio of catalyst to base. J B Weld is a 1:1 mix. That yields a very hard/brittle filler. With epoxies, INCREASING the amount of catalyst will produce a filler that is softer and more flexible. With engine vibration, an extremely hard filler would be susceptable to developing cracks. I would mix the J B Weld in the ratio of 2 parts of catalyst to 1 part of base so as to have a filler that is more flexible and less prone to cracking. For a neat "patch", I usually mask off the seam line and remove the tape before the filler has started to set. You can clip a shop light to shine on the repair and the heat will hasten then curing process.
You only want the filler surface to be slightly warm...not hot.
Acetone will usually draw excess oil out of a gasket edge if that is needed. Just prior to applying the filler, I scrub the area with comet cleanser and water to remove any acetone or other residue, then rinse with clean water and dry the surface with a heat gun or hair dryer.
Earl
J B Weld is a two part high temp epoxy filler, and will work just fine for that problem. There are a couple of things to consider. J B Weld normally takes about 6 hours to primary cure. Epoxies are absolutely intolerant of oil, or any greasy contamination. Not even a fingerprint is acceptable. The joint will have to be cleaned spotless and it cannot weep any oil for at least 6 hours while the epoxy is curing. Any oil that weeps after the compound is applied will form a microscopic barrier between the surface of the metal and the epoxy and it will not seal. The characteristics of epoxies in general can be modified by the ratio of catalyst to base. J B Weld is a 1:1 mix. That yields a very hard/brittle filler. With epoxies, INCREASING the amount of catalyst will produce a filler that is softer and more flexible. With engine vibration, an extremely hard filler would be susceptable to developing cracks. I would mix the J B Weld in the ratio of 2 parts of catalyst to 1 part of base so as to have a filler that is more flexible and less prone to cracking. For a neat "patch", I usually mask off the seam line and remove the tape before the filler has started to set. You can clip a shop light to shine on the repair and the heat will hasten then curing process.
You only want the filler surface to be slightly warm...not hot.
Acetone will usually draw excess oil out of a gasket edge if that is needed. Just prior to applying the filler, I scrub the area with comet cleanser and water to remove any acetone or other residue, then rinse with clean water and dry the surface with a heat gun or hair dryer.
Earl
slopoke said:
P
Pillage
Guest
I don't know about Harleybond but a Harleyblond... now that's another story! :twisted:dallyr said:
A
Anonymous
Guest
Pillage said:
Especially scantily clad Harleyblond.... woohoo 8)
A
Anonymous
Guest
Ok Earl good remindr on the cleaning. have been givin a product by Bigdaddy called K M ultra epoxy which he said gave him exceptionall results over the years on the oil pans of stock carsearlfor said:Yep Scotty, have a lot of experience with that sort of thing.
J B Weld is a two part high temp epoxy filler, and will work just fine for that problem. There are a couple of things to consider. J B Weld normally takes about 6 hours to primary cure. Epoxies are absolutely intolerant of oil, or any greasy contamination. Not even a fingerprint is acceptable. The joint will have to be cleaned spotless and it cannot weep any oil for at least 6 hours while the epoxy is curing. Any oil that weeps after the compound is applied will form a microscopic barrier between the surface of the metal and the epoxy and it will not seal. The characteristics of epoxies in general can be modified by the ratio of catalyst to base. J B Weld is a 1:1 mix. That yields a very hard/brittle filler. With epoxies, INCREASING the amount of catalyst will produce a filler that is softer and more flexible. With engine vibration, an extremely hard filler would be susceptable to developing cracks. I would mix the J B Weld in the ratio of 2 parts of catalyst to 1 part of base so as to have a filler that is more flexible and less prone to cracking. For a neat "patch", I usually mask off the seam line and remove the tape before the filler has started to set. You can clip a shop light to shine on the repair and the heat will hasten then curing process.
You only want the filler surface to be slightly warm...not hot.
Acetone will usually draw excess oil out of a gasket edge if that is needed. Just prior to applying the filler, I scrub the area with comet cleanser and water to remove any acetone or other residue, then rinse with clean water and dry the surface with a heat gun or hair dryer.
Earl
slopoke said:
.
Thanks
A
Anonymous
Guest
Sticky sticky...
Sticky sticky...
Yes Martha there is such a thing as Hondabond... I used the stuff at the dealership on the Honda cars in the 80s & 90s. The Permatex Ultra-grey is a carbon-copy of the "Honda" stuff.
Rick..........
(Great info on the JB Weld curing & bonding specifics...think I'll print & save it!!!!!!!)
Sticky sticky...
Yes Martha there is such a thing as Hondabond... I used the stuff at the dealership on the Honda cars in the 80s & 90s. The Permatex Ultra-grey is a carbon-copy of the "Honda" stuff.
Rick..........
(Great info on the JB Weld curing & bonding specifics...think I'll print & save it!!!!!!!)