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Engine damage due to overheating?

  • Thread starter Thread starter chakaman6
  • Start date Start date
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chakaman6

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I went to look at a 1982 GS1100 GL this weekend. The bike is for sale, it has 21,XXX miles and it looks great. My concern is with the engine. It makes a trashing noiose in the valve cover area when its at low idle up to around 3000 RPM and then it disappears. It appears to run fine except for the strange noise coming from inside the engine. The owner did disclose the fact that a couple of months ago he left the bike running for 30-45 minutes and when he finally came back to turn it off it was running really hot, idling really high and there was smoke all over the place. he said that ever since that day, the engine noise has been there. He states he has not changed the oil since that day.
My question is is it possible that there is engine damage as a result of letting the engine idle that long and overheating. When i started it up I did not see any white smoke coming from the exhaust and it seems to run fine except for the noise. Maybe a slight hesitation when accelarating from first but I suspect its from the drive shaft. BTW, I also own a GS750T and it does not sound anything like the GS1100. Thanks in advance.
 
Yes there could be engine damage due to lack of lubrication. Most of the daqmage seems to me would be the rings, piston and cylinder walls. If the noise is a clatter coming from all over the head, probably valves. If from the timing chain tunnel, listen with a screwdriver to the ear and against the valve cover. Blip the throttle and listen. Could be the chain adjuster needs to be reset.
Funny noise is not very desctiptive.
V
 
Where's Jim and his pic of his sacrifice to the charging gods?
You want melted there's melted.
 
Greetings and Salutations!!

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. chakaman6,

I'd like to hear the difference after a fluid change and valve adjust. It's a tough call until you get in there and start poking around.

Let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike! :D

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Well, I finally got some time to work on the bike and I ended up changing the oil and filter as per your advise and the noise persisted. I then tried turning the knob on the cam chain tensioner and BINGO the noise went away. Once I let go of the spring loaded knob the noise came back. So Im going to order an APE manual adjuster and hope it solves my problem.
My question now is; Will letting the engine idle for a long time cause this?
 
Well, I finally got some time to work on the bike and I ended up changing the oil and filter as per your advise and the noise persisted. I then tried turning the knob on the cam chain tensioner and BINGO the noise went away. Once I let go of the spring loaded knob the noise came back. So Im going to order an APE manual adjuster and hope it solves my problem.
My question now is; Will letting the engine idle for a long time cause this?
I'd pull the valve cover and check out the cam chain along with the guides. Something funning is going on and I wouldn't count on an APE tensioner correcting it.
 
The stock cam chain adjusters are wonderful devices which function reliabily for the most part. Instead of a manual adjuster, which is easy to over tighten and requires mainenance, why don't you just rebuild the tensioner you have? It's a pretty easy process once you take it apart. Regarding whether or not heat caused the damage, it's possible but seems unlikely to me since the device is so simple and only has a couple of moving parts.
 
Melted Chain Tensioner

Melted Chain Tensioner

I have a 1982 GS1100 GLZ that overheated on me (stuck in traffic in Chicago). The stock tensioner basically melted, causing the timing chain to loosen and jump time. I am in the process on repairing the damage. All I have left is adjust the valves (shim bucket) and put everything else back on. I ended up putting a manual tension adjuster on it.
 
I have a 1982 GS1100 GLZ that overheated on me (stuck in traffic in Chicago). The stock tensioner basically melted, causing the timing chain to loosen and jump time. I am in the process on repairing the damage. All I have left is adjust the valves (shim bucket) and put everything else back on. I ended up putting a manual tension adjuster on it.

How can a part (tensioner) that is made of METAL melt? Try again.
 
How can a part (tensioner) that is made of METAL melt?
Oh, it's possible, but by the time that happened, it would be the least of his worries. :eek: :D

A noise that disappears with engine speed sounds a bit like 'cam walk' to me, but that usually goes away by 2,000 rpm.

.
 
Cam Chain Tensioner

Cam Chain Tensioner

The portion of the tensioner that melted was the plastic spring loaded outter housing. There, tried again!
 
The portion of the tensioner that melted was the plastic spring loaded outter housing. There, tried again!

Ok, you got me. Sorry to offend...I can't help it some times.:rolleyes: You must have a late model GS bike, all the early bikes through 82 I think have an all metal tensioner.
 
Tensioner

Tensioner

Hey, wasn't offended at all, sorry if it came off like that! This is an awesome site!!
 
The cam chain tensioner has a specific procedure to adjust it. It's fairly straight forward in the manual. I don't think it's a good thing to turn that knob otherwise. The adjustment can be thrown off.
Eddie V
 
I would at least want to look at or replace the cam chain guide. With the low oil pressure and high heat, I would suspect it to be badly worn. After it cuts through the plastic/teflon(?) does it not hit metal? It would still have all of that plastic parts in the engine. As others have said, I would stick to the automatic cam chain adjuster. If not rebuilt, a new one.

Eric
 
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