Engine / Frame repainting

[Call Me Ahab]

Greetings,

I've sandblasted both my engines, gs850 and 1000, and I'm preparing them for por15.

I applied a light coat to a test area and it bubbled up a great deal... I'm not sure what I could have done wrong, I used their Marine Clean diluted 1:1 (some thick, nasty grease!) and then their Prep&Etch. I did indeed wash thoroughly with water.

Anyone have experience with this paint system? And can anyone tell me if I should go with their Black Velvet High Temp or the Stirling Silver high-gloss?
Also... I used a muriatic acid dilute 3:1 Water to Acid, and it left a kind of blackish coating on the surface of the engine.. how do I go about removing this, and is that even safe to use? When my friend found out about it he just yelled at me "Dumbass!" but wasn't able to tell me why I shouldn't have done this, beyond "you don't put that on aluminum."

Thanks for stopping by, have a good week folks!

 

[TooManyToys]

POR15 should never be applied on a blasted clean surface. It's designed to grab onto iron oxide.

 

[Call Me Ahab]

I see... how will I go about removing the bit that I have already applied?

 

[rustybronco]

Bead/media blasting perhaps?

Have a look at this thread. http://thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=1320142#post1320142

 

[Nessism]

Why did you put acid on your engine if you had already sand blasted it? Seems redundant no?

If you have black crud on your engine after the acid process, I'd go back and blast again. Make sure the acid is neutralized first though.

As for the paint, you can use most POR15 paints on a blasted surface no problem. Metal prep is recommended before application on steel, but I'd leave the aluminum as is after a simple cleaning.

POR15 engine paint is crappy stuff. Turns yellow with heat. I love POR15, but that's a bad product. The Black Velvet High Temp or the Stirling Silver may be better though. I've never tried those. My frame was painted with Hardnose paint, and the satin pieces with Chassis Kote. All on sand blasted surfaces, and all look good and are durable.

On my seat pan, which had some rust on the foam side, the metal was sand blasted to remove as much rust as possible. There was still some rust down in the rust pits after this work, so I used POR-15 rust preventative paint. They claim this paint can be applied right on top of rust, but I'd never do it unless you have no choice. Same for sealing a gas tank. I remove as much rust as possible before using the tank sealer. There is no downside to clean metal.

 

[posplayr]

POR-15 activates with moisture and so if the metal was not absolutely air dry (i.e. dried at least over night or heated to dry) then you get the small pin holes.

Agree with Ed on the sandblasting, that was recommended by the company but you have to do the treatments. Anymore issues call the tech support at the company.

 

[Call Me Ahab]

Hmmm... All right, I'll go back and sandblast again. And yeah, I absolutely know what you mean about it getting ANYWHERE you don't have sealed up.. I created a pretty big mess for myself last time.

I don't follow you 100%, you mean to say that the por15 base yellows, or the Engine Enamel yellows? And I understand about clearing the rust out completely, I'm not crazy about putting any sort of covering over rust.

Finally got the Prep 'n Etch, Stripper, and Marine Clean from POR15 today.

I'm still curious about that stirling silver though, I have a can now - but I cannot find any information about the temperature range! Anyone know if this is safe over an engine? Seriously, googled it to death and I find no information, I sent an e-mail to their support yesterday and I still haven't gotten a response...

As for the acid, I blasted one engine to remove the trashy peeling and loose black paint, on the other I was hoping to rinse off old grease / oil and dirt with acid. That's when I started seeing the discoloration... Por15 stuck GREAT to the oil pan and underside of the engine, but not so much to the top end =[

May just blast that off, chew up the metal a bit with some sand and go right over it with the engine enamel. Assuming that is the stuff the does NOT yellow D:

 

[Nessism]

I don't follow you 100%, you mean to say that the por15 base yellows, or the Engine Enamel yellows? And I understand about clearing the rust out completely, I'm not crazy about putting any sort of covering over rust.

I'm still curious about that stirling silver though, I have a can now - but I cannot find any information about the temperature range! Anyone know if this is safe over an engine?

Engine Enamel is the bad stuff. Might be okay if you use black though. Don't use a light color like silver though. POR-20 Aluminum paint is high temperature. I'd use that if you want silver.

 

[Call Me Ahab]

Engine Enamel is the bad stuff. Might be okay if you use black though. Don't use a light color like silver though. POR-20 Aluminum paint is high temperature. I'd use that if you want silver.

Okay, I have a can of that stuff.

I decided to powder coat the jugs, cylinder head, and cylinder covers. I will be painting the lower end with the Aluminum paint. It will give it a 2-tone look, kind of mismatched colors, but they're actually surprisingly close

My chrome powder coat looks nearly identical on my test pieces, hopefully this won't come out looking TOO awful!

 

[Call Me Ahab]

Another question, I have a can of Satin Black VHT ceramic Header paint. Will this work all right over sandblasted pipes? They're currently extremely rusty, the guy before me did a shoddy paint job over rust.