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Engine-on Frame Paint - Godspeed or Dude Naw?

  • Thread starter Thread starter JE550B
  • Start date Start date
J

JE550B

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Starting my off-season task list. Got all the engine, carbs, and safety done last season so I'm focusing on finishes this year. The frame wasn't all that noticeable with my old banged-up tank but I just snagged a NOS tank on eBay that really shines a light on the worn-out paint.

So my question is this... Has anybody here tried a rattle-can job (maybe that VHT rollbar epoxy) with the engine still in? I know it's possible with expert bagging/masking but I don't have a great idea of the manhours required or how to set my own expectations for the outcome. Does anybody have a success or horror story to share?

Thanks!
 
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I think Mr Chuck Hahn has had a wee bit of success at wrapping aluminum foil around various sundry parts, shock absorbers for instance, then spray painted the frame with appliance epoxy.

Might want to dig up a few of his postings...
 
I've done that kinda paint before. The problem is that you can never get quite total coverage, and annoyingly, the spots that get missed are always, somehow, visible after you remove the masking.
 
The "rolling chassis" thread is solid. Thanks for pointing it out. It's about what I had in mind.

JamesWhut? - are there any spots in particular that didn't take paint well that I should focus on?
 
Anything with something behind it, or where you can see when you look down from the rider's seat....
 
Good thread. I have been contemplating the same...but in reverse.

I have my carbs off now, have a freshly painted valve cover, and oily ugly head and case. I have been pondering the difficulty of de-oiling and painting the head and case silver while it is in the frame.

I assume if that works, I would then be pondering the re-freshing of the frame too.
 
How about any advice or tips/tricks on taping or sequence of work? Tape bolts at engine connection or remove in sequence and plug holes?
 
aluminum tape works really well for masking curved/complicated/hard to mask parts.
 
I've used model paint brushes for touching up hard to reach areas. Just spray a puddle on a piece of cardboard. .99 cent store
 
Just remember, the key behind any great paint job is great prep jobs. This means total degreasing of any and all parts, abrading the surface, priming and painting. But remember this, most paints will not adhere well to aluminum. This is due to the lack of porosity of aluminum.
 
I would not use anything that is not a two-component paint system on the frame. It may look good at first (if you put a whole lotta time into prepping), but it will look bad when (not if) it gets scratched and scraped. Any paint without catalyst is not durable enough for frames. Frames tend to take a beating--solvents, scrapes from tools or boots, etc. And if you put the time into properly prepping for any paint job then it is a shame to use anything less durable than a 2K system. And now that it is sold in a spray can, the DIYer does not even need the equipment to get professional results.
 
Scratcher09 said:
I would not use anything that is not a two-component paint system on the frame. It may look good at first (if you put a whole lotta time into prepping), but it will look bad when (not if) it gets scratched and scraped. Any paint without catalyst is not durable enough for frames. Frames tend to take a beating--solvents, scrapes from tools or boots, etc. And if you put the time into properly prepping for any paint job then it is a shame to use anything less durable than a 2K system. And now that it is sold in a spray can, the DIYer does not even need the equipment to get professional results.
Click to expand...

That is good advice. As I plan to ride my bike and not hang it on the wall I'll be giving greater consideration to doing it properly. I don't want to refinish the frame more than once. Maybe pulling all of the bits and pieces off and biting the bullet on a blast and powder coat is the right way to go.

In that case is there anyone in the Seattle area who could recommend a shop so that I can get a cost estimate?
 
I don't know of what powder coat shops are in your area. Wish I did. The only one that I know of is in Mt Vernon. It shouldn't cost more than $100 to have the frame blasted, but don't know about the cost of powder coating. Just make sure the frame is clean and grease free, or you can get charged extra. Let me know if you need help, I'm only a couple hours north of ya
 
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