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engine rebuild?

trent

trent

Forum Mentor
Dumb question but I have limited tools and skills ,and I know it's insane to ask can a novice rebuild a 1100 motor. I have put a clutch in one and wheel bearings and fixed some electrical. I just wanted to do top end but maybe I should go all out . I am a little nervous because it has after market cams and when adjusting valve's noticed it has been timed? because notched are off. If I just do top end how much do you think it would cost( if no crazy expenses). If I just replace rings, gaskets and seals ..Or should I get a shop to do it, not much option one shop already told me they are not interested in working on it and other wanted 2,000 down just for top end rebuild and won't warrenty any labor??
 
Rebuilding an engine is not impossible with the right tools, patience, and money for the parts needed.
That being said, do you have a good, complete set of tools? How about a workplace where you can take everything apart? Is it clean and organized? Taking the head off is not terribly difficult, but if you need to have parts machined or replaced it can get expensive.

Removing the head also means you have to take out the exhaust manifold bolts. There is a good chance one or more will break off when you try. Factor in having them removed at a machine shop or drilling them out yourself.

If you follow the book for your bike, take your time, and enlist the help of someone with more experience it can be done. If you don't have the time, are short on cash, have no place to tear it down, and have little in the way of tools it might be best to find another bike that has fewer issues and pass this one on to somebody that can do something with it, or use the parts.

I've done several engines and rebuilt 4 bikes. It's a lot of work and costs money. The results are worth it.
 
If thats my only two options ,I will have to...Do it myself. New bikes way out of the question .I just got my license and bought a 83 mercury capri with a six banger
 
duaneage said:
Removing the head also means you have to take out the exhaust manifold bolts. There is a good chance one or more will break off when you try. The results are worth it.
Click to expand...
The pipe was one thing I had to mess with first ,When they put pipe on two years ago they broke three off and my friends dad had some easy outs???? but I still had to heli-coil one of them thanks
 
Look at it this way: If you start the project and have questions there are plenty here who can assist you. Maybe some even live near enough to come by and help.
 
duaneage said:
Removing the head also means you have to take out the exhaust manifold bolts. There is a good chance one or more will break off when you try. Factor in having them removed at a machine shop or drilling them out yourself.
Click to expand...

trent said:
The pipe was one thing I had to mess with first ,When they put pipe on two years ago they broke three off and my friends dad had some easy outs???? but I still had to heli-coil one of them thanks
Click to expand...

If proper technique is used there shouldn't be any broken exhaust bolts. It's sad that people think that sort of thing is inevitable, because it isn't.

As far as rebuilding the top end, it can be done by an inexperienced mechanic, but only if they are willing to research the proper techniques. Use ham fisted techniques, like breaking off exhaust bolts, is going to lead to major heart ache and an empty wallet.
 
You need to check it first before just tearing into it.. Why do you thing it needs a rebuild ??
 
SqDancerLynn1 said:
You need to check it first before just tearing into it.. Why do you thing it needs a rebuild ??
Click to expand...

+1. Why? Is it burnin oil profusely? Or is it because you think it has high miles? GS motors, with a few exceptions, are generally overbuilt, very robust engines. With roller bearing cranks, they can take a ton of abuse, built to the hilt, whipped hard and put away wet and come back for more again and again.
So it has slotted cam sprockets? Likely someone has been in it recently, (or recently in GS years) and generally if someone puts hot cams in it, they don't stop there. Is it puking oil from a gasket?

There are quite a few of us that have had GSes with 50+ thousand miles on them with little issue, some of us have had 100+ thousand miles GSes. They'll run forever if they're maintained. Fill us in, you may be looking at doing work that isn't needed.

Having said that, when I joined this forum I knew jack all about rebuilding a motor. With the help of the forum, intense study of the manual, and patience, money and a winters worth of time, I taught myself. I've done a few of em since, and while they're all a tiny bit different, they're all very similar. If you want to do it, and set yourself up to succeed, you'll find it pretty easy, and very rewarding. Plus you'll have an intimate knowledge of your GS, and that, in my opinion, is worth it's weight in gold if you plan on falling in love with them, owning them for a long time, and end up a totally hopeless GSophile like the lot of us.
:)
 
IT's burning oil, it's puking oil, all from top end. And the more I read on here about the gs the more I like it, I didn't set out to buy just anything I've always like the way this bike looked and thought it was worth doing something with. And after a private messages I have the info and a couple of members in my area that said they would help me out if they could . Thank you
 
Well then, what are you waiting for, get to it...:D

And don't forget to start a build thread so we can all follow and throw in our 2c, with pictures, lots of 'em, you know we like pictures. :D
 
You sure the oil isn't leaking from the very top of the head?
Because that's just a simple Valve Gasket replacement.
(very common leak spot)
 
If it's been sitting, some spirited riding might help the compression over a thousand miles or so and remedy some of the smoking.
 
Even thought it's been cold I put on over 400 miles last three of four days and I think the smoking is all but gone, I cleaned engine and it IS leaking from what I think is base of cylinders new petcock 75.00 bucks and ordered. Someone said to try torqueing head down to 175 ft lbe and it might seal?
 
Replace the two seals at the tachometer also.
Very common to leak there and look like a cylinder head gasket leak.

Daniel
 
trent said:
Someone said to try torqueing head down to 175 ft lbe and it might seal?
Click to expand...
Whoever said that, PLEASE IGNORE THEM. :eek:

Most of the GS engines only require 27 ft. lbs on the head bolts. :o

I shudder to think what would happen if you tried 175.
scared2.gif


.
 
27-29 is what the manual says but,
I like to take mine to 35 Ft.Lbs. ;)
Rapidray suggests even more at 42. IIRC.

Daniel
 
Clean the engine real good. Get it real dry, preferably without cranking it up, then spray some foot powder in the suspect areas (valve cover gasket, head gasket, tach gasket, base gasket, etc.) Then when you run it a little, you will be able to see exactly where the leaks are.
 
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