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engine stand

jsandidge

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
So, a co-worker has offered to loan me an automotive engine stand to help with my resto. I'll be cleaning, soda blasting, and painting my engine. Sure would be nice to have easy access and the ability to turn the engine over. Anyone have tips or pics on how to bolt up the motor to it? What else do I need?
 
Depends on how fancy the stand is, maybe. The photos that I have seen of GS engines on an automotive engine stand have had a big custom-welded bracket between the stand and the engine.
 
I'm sure if you could search you would find various pictures of stands.
 
I'm sure if you could search you would find various pictures of stands.

I found a few threads here showing engine stands. There was even a thread started by you. Unfortunately, none of your pictures would show up. I'd really like to see them if they're still available.
 
Ya, I hate that. You're part way through a great thread and the pictures are no longer there...arrrrrrrr Here's a couple of pics from Google

1ae33ab7.jpg


8fl1ij7.jpg


Not sure of the type of stand you're going to use but you can see they all basically use the two rear axles on the engine to bolt on to.
 
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I found a few threads here showing engine stands. There was even a thread started by you. Unfortunately, none of your pictures would show up. I'd really like to see them if they're still available.


The free picture hosting site I had used for many years (at least 10) just disappeared one day and the links all went dead. I have restored some as I can search the file name in the deadline and find it on my computer. Mine is not great but if you have the link where the dead link is posted, I can restore it.
 
Using currently to work on a 1150 motor.


temporary_zpsutaxyhyv.jpg

temporary_zpshr6tinm4.jpg

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Works well. Had to install the bracket vertically to make it work with the spacing. The clamp is to hold it vertically since the pin would set it at an angle. Four steel angle brackets (super struts I found on ebay), 1/2 inch bolts and B7 threaded rod.

Nic
 
Nic I think your setup is the most common method I have seen. Ill be using it when I do the full tear down on 750L #1.
 
I had to cut down the two top angle brackets by 1/4". They hit the rear of the engine cases if not. I'll probably add some spacers in between the cases and angle brackets to get dome more clearance to the rear of the cases before paint.

Recommend the b7 rod. The standard isn't as strong and flexes too much.

Nic
 
I had to cut down the two top angle brackets by 1/4". They hit the rear of the engine cases if not. I'll probably add some spacers in between the cases and angle brackets to get dome more clearance to the rear of the cases before paint.

Recommend the b7 rod. The standard isn't as strong and flexes too much.

Nic

Thanks Nic. I believe this is the method I'll use. Just picked up the stand. Where did you get the B7 rod?
 
Metal by the foot is where I got mine. Store close to work. They can cut it down to size as well.
 
Any reason to not use the existing motor mounts bolts? I don't trust the allthread either. Worst case I'll go with B7 as well.

Had a co worker modify some brackets I had here for me, they are a little bigger than yours at 2.5"x4.5", I would have have cut them in half but they were already drilled on the short side:

22038D0E-F908-4E60-9451-CF51F8950076.jpg
 
No reason not to. I used the rod so I could tighten everything up without the need for spacers.
 
Didn't think so, just making sure you felt the same. I have a spare engine so even if there were concerns I could use those. Just need to slot/notch my brackets and make sure they fit before I have 2 more fabbed up and will post some pictures when I do.

For now, it hangs, ratchet strapped from the rafters:
71B49613-7174-4CC6-9548-BF01DAB392C2.jpg
 
Nic I think your setup is the most common method I have seen. Ill be using it when I do the full tear down on 750L #1.

When doing full tear down don't you need another arm attached to the top part of the upper case? That way you can flip the upper case to empty and fill it with the crank and tranny.

Once the lower case has been removed thats when you would need the additional arm.

What everyone has posted so far would be fine for painting or external work on a complete engine, including R/R of jugs and head.

Nic, do you just split the cases on a bench once you have the head and jugs off?

Another way of doing it is using two cheap harbor freight stands mounted to a common base member. Gives you ability to rotate by attaching to front and rear upper motor mounts as well as split cases. You loose some front access. It's also a bigger thing to have around although this guy's bracket could be shorter. He says he had to weld things to make it but it looks like it could be done by just cutting pieces and bolting in a sleeve.

http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63143

rotisserie1.jpg
 
When doing full tear down don't you need another arm attached to the top part of the upper case? That way you can flip the upper case to empty and fill it with the crank and tranny.

Once the lower case has been removed thats when you would need the additional arm.

What everyone has posted so far would be fine for painting or external work on a complete engine, including R/R of jugs and head.

Nic, do you just split the cases on a bench once you have the head and jugs off?

Another way of doing it is using two cheap harbor freight stands mounted to a common base member. Gives you ability to rotate by attaching to front and rear upper motor mounts as well as split cases. You loose some front access. It's also a bigger thing to have around although this guy's bracket could be shorter. He says he had to weld things to make it but it looks like it could be done by just cutting pieces and bolting in a sleeve.

http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63143

rotisserie1.jpg

That works and gives you even more tip over margin. Not sure where I got the spare pipe from, but it wouldn't take much to overrun the cost of a new stand.
GSengine_stand_zpstiicruw4.jpg
 
I cut my brackets in half and slotted them tonight, best tool I had handy for the Bridgeport was an 11/16" so the slot is a little big but I'll just use some big fender washers:
E5644074-9248-4FBE-9470-EBEC84E57396.jpg

85E2BF5F-BE82-4D31-AABA-871C63C498AF.jpg


Also need to trim a little meat around the corners so it follows the contour of the transmission case better - stock mount shown over the top of my bracket:
A7A0589C-C535-4D71-BF30-82561FAB922D.jpg
 
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