Sawdust and a handful of bb's and we're good to go!
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Engine won't engage
- Thread starter kerrfunk
- Start date
Sawdust and a handful of bb's and we're good to go!
I got one at BoulevardSuzuki for about $100. Call and ask for Ashley Cooper. If you find one on ebay the right color they're fairly expensive. The funny thing is you can often buy an entire wheel with the spline assembly incuded for fairly cheap. I got a 1100G wheel with good splines for $35. I'm gonna get around to putting the 17" wheel on my GL.
These splines are the same size, I think. I think the only soft yrs were maybe '82 and '83. '80 should be good.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/80-S...3126778QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
The wheel probably wouldn't do you any good. You're probably better off searching ebay for 850 stuff because the only yrs they made 1100gl's were '82 and '83. The soft spline yrs.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/80-S...3126778QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
The wheel probably wouldn't do you any good. You're probably better off searching ebay for 850 stuff because the only yrs they made 1100gl's were '82 and '83. The soft spline yrs.
Guy selling this wheel seems to be under representing shipping cost. Looks to be a good deal.
The part is:
JOINT, HUB DRIVEN: 64680-45113
It's still available new for $100 - $125 and will be for quite a while -- this part is used on every Suzuki shaftie until the present day except the mighty M109. The Intruders (VS700-800) are very common, so if you can find an Intruder rear wheel with a spline, that spline will work as well.
The 1985 and newer splines are silver -- GOOD. If you order a new spline from Suzuki, you'll get the good updated part.
The 82-83 splines (and some 81 and 84) were gold -- BAD.
1979-80 splines and some 1981 were black -- ALSO GOOD.
It's VERY difficult to tell the difference in spline color from photos. Even in person, you sometimes have to get them side-by-side to tell. The best indicator is what bike they came from. In the end, it's often more trouble and money than it's worth to fart around with used parts when a brand new spline is easily available for just over $100.
JOINT, HUB DRIVEN: 64680-45113
It's still available new for $100 - $125 and will be for quite a while -- this part is used on every Suzuki shaftie until the present day except the mighty M109. The Intruders (VS700-800) are very common, so if you can find an Intruder rear wheel with a spline, that spline will work as well.
The 1985 and newer splines are silver -- GOOD. If you order a new spline from Suzuki, you'll get the good updated part.
The 82-83 splines (and some 81 and 84) were gold -- BAD.
1979-80 splines and some 1981 were black -- ALSO GOOD.
It's VERY difficult to tell the difference in spline color from photos. Even in person, you sometimes have to get them side-by-side to tell. The best indicator is what bike they came from. In the end, it's often more trouble and money than it's worth to fart around with used parts when a brand new spline is easily available for just over $100.
No grief here. And "check the splines" was among the first things you said to me, so it's not like it's a surprise.Yep, you need a spline for sure. That one is gone for good. I feel bad for selling it to you that way (well, it wasn't that way when you got it though), but also feel relieved that I don't have to deal with it.But I may have to on my G.
While the wheel's off I'm getting a new tire. That one has about 6,000 miles on it and not enough tread to pass inspection, I don't think.
The driven spline is the same in the 650 shafties, and yes, the 82-83 650G/GL models will have the exact same issue. They might make a few more miles than their torquier and heavier brethren before stripping the splines, but don't forget the 650 is no slouch at all in the power department -- about the same as an 850 in HP, I believe.
Also, to those who haven't checked their splines -- please do so NOW. Do NOT wait for yours to strip out in the middle of some busy intersection. Also keep in mind that the drive spline teeth on the final drive side take a real beating when the driven splines get thin and go blooey. It's well worth getting ahead of this problem ASAP.
Everybody knows that I don't have any experience wrenching, but I gotta say, pulling the wheel off and getting that hub out was a piece of cake. Especially after reading Basscliff's stuff.
I'm pretty lucky. The splines didn't give while I was actually riding, and I was only five miles away from home, and I had a buddy who was willing and able to come pick me and the bike up.
I won. Total cost: $30.13. I'll let you know in a few days how it turns out
Guy selling this wheel seems to be under representing shipping cost. Looks to be a good deal.
Yeah but 650 drivers are supposed to be mellow!
Anyways, I 'll check my 39k spline over the winter- it sounds and turns well!
Just so everyone understands in the future....the rear wheel and the spline MUST be completely seperated to inspect the wear. Just pulling the wheel and looking it over is not good enough. The spline must be removed from the wheel so one can see the entire spline.
Good point, as evidenced by my pictures in post #20 of this thread. When that hub was still nestled in the wheel, the splines looked terrific! That is, the ends of the splines looked terrific. When I pulled the hub out, all that was left of the splines is those little ends I had seen. Not good enough!Just so everyone understands in the future....the rear wheel and the spline MUST be completely seperated to inspect the wear. Just pulling the wheel and looking it over is not good enough. The spline must be removed from the wheel so one can see the entire spline.
I did a search for "Moly 60" to read up on it and I liked the thread I found. And I called a Honda shop about 5 miles away from me and they've got the Honda Moly60 for ten bucks. I went to two auto parts places and they had never heard of moly60. One guy looked it up in a book and is having some delivered, but I'ma go with the Honda place 5 miles away.
from the Old Technical info forum...
My splines were toast at 24,000 miles, too, and I experienced that funny clunking GSJohn described. Riding along and it suddenly felt like I picked up a rubber marble and let it clunk around inside the wheel for 5-10 seconds and then disappeared. I went to a bike mechanic but he was unable to duplicate the problem.
from the Old Technical info forum...
My splines were toast at 24,000 miles, too, and I experienced that funny clunking GSJohn described. Riding along and it suddenly felt like I picked up a rubber marble and let it clunk around inside the wheel for 5-10 seconds and then disappeared. I went to a bike mechanic but he was unable to duplicate the problem.
waiting on the wheel. FedEx tracking says it might come tomorrow. I hope so because then I don't have to wait til Monday, and what is Sunday afternoon for besides riding (or working on bike)?So....do you have it all fixed up yet or are you still waiting for your wheel ?
