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Engines all polished

  • Thread starter Thread starter ScreamingLiL2stroke
  • Start date Start date
I used the steel wool and my hands to buff the cases and all down,as far as parts ebays ur best bet but they dont have much in the way of 82 gs650e parts trust me ive been looking for a while for a few small parts to finsh her up.
 
I tried polishing my fins with the dremel piece but it tears apart in like 2 minutes. these things cost like $4 each. I got like 2 fins cleaned. i just dont get it.
 
Tarbash 27 said:
I tried polishing my fins with the dremel piece but it tears apart in like 2 minutes. these things cost like $4 each. I got like 2 fins cleaned. i just dont get it.
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The brass filaments will spin out if the dremel is running too fast...try slowing it down some. Also, it is the ends of the wire that do the work...the filaments shouldn't bend much at all when they contact the work. It's a pretty light touch that does the cleaning and polishing. Like a tickle...think of the aluminum as skin. The best way to buy these wheels is in bulk...here we can get five in a plastic bag for four bucks at discount tool places, so maybe check around a bit.
 
well i have an old dremel thats only one speed. the thing spins so fast, that probably why im chewing them up.
 
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Flea markets for dremel stuff like wire wheels and all that jazz, i buy um all at a flea market i go to i can walk away with a crap load of stuff for like 5 bucks,i got wire wheels last week for 1.50 a pop,some places have grab bins that say 5 for dollar.

I go at a slow rate of speed when doing it so the wheels last a long while.
 
Question about polishing with steel wool:

I gave it a try today on a spare piece to see how it worked, and I don't get how you managed to do it. The really fine stuff polishes it up nice, but you need something coarser to get the discolored spots out.

This was the problem: The #3 stuff (really coarse) just scratched the hell out of the aluminum, and the #1 stuff (medium) wasn't coarse enough.

Any advice?
 
Ishamael said:
Question about polishing with steel wool:

This was the problem: The #3 stuff (really coarse) just scratched the hell out of the aluminum, and the #1 stuff (medium) wasn't coarse enough.

Any advice?
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Hmmmmm..... #2?:wink:

Sorry, couldn't help it!

Using steel wool is just like using sand paper, you start with coarse, then use medium to remove the marks from the coarse, then fine and so forth.

HTH,
Bob T.
 
Yea you have to start rough and work ur way down to a nice finish its alot of work.
 
you can wet sand too. That's how renobruce did it.... I used his methods of wet sanding with various grits and it's turned out extremely well on the few pieces I've tested it on.

Good luck!
 
ScreamingLiL2stroke said:
Yea you have to start rough and work your way down to a nice finish its alot of work.
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OK...I guess I'm just not doing it right, because the medium stuff doesn't remove the scratches from the rough stuff.

I'll keep trying...
 
J_C said:
you can wet sand too. That's how renobruce did it.... I used his methods of wet sanding with various grits and it's turned out extremely well on the few pieces I've tested it on.

Good luck!
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I first tried using steel wool but my results weren't that great. I stripped the parts with aircraft stripper, then went with 400, 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit sandpaper. Then buffed them with mothers and a polishing pad in my drill. They turned out pretty good, I think.

100_1656.jpg
 
renobruce said:
I first tried using steel wool but my results weren't that great. I stripped the parts with aircraft stripper, then went with 400, 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit sandpaper. Then buffed them with mothers and a polishing pad in my drill. They turned out pretty good, I think.
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Wow. Nice work.
 
OK, so how did you guys get into all of the little crevaces w/ either sand paper or steel wool?? :confused:

also, i am assuming that you guys clear coated... so, what clear coat did you guys use after it was all done? is 500 degree stuff OK, or should i use 1000 degree?
 
I believe most people just put some turtle wax or similar on there and forgo the clear coat
 
ScreamingLiL2stroke said:
I didnt clear mine i just used mothers polish on it.
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i tried using Mothers polish after i wetsanded it, and within days it started to oxidize, so i clear coated it w/ 500 degree clear. so far the clear has not discolored, but i wanted to make sure if this was the right thing to do before i go "ScreamingLiL2stroke" on it. :)

how did you guys sand in those little crevaces tho???
 
supergus said:
OK, so how did you guys get into all of the little crevaces w/ either sand paper or steel wool?? :confused:

also, i am assuming that you guys clear coated... so, what clear coat did you guys use after it was all done? is 500 degree stuff OK, or should i use 1000 degree?
Click to expand...

For the engine on mine, I just scrubbed it clean with a toothbrush and some Simple Green. For the side cases, I just polish every now an then with Mother's. I did not clear coat anything. Where are you from? You must have some humidity in your neck of the woods. I don't. Just a quick bath and a quick polish and my motor and side cases look great. As for the cracks and crevaces, I used a dremmel originally, but now just polish by hand.
 
Tarbash 27 said:
well i have an old dremel thats only one speed. the thing spins so fast, that probably why im chewing them up.
Click to expand...

Try using something less course. I've managed to MacGuyver some of my worn out dremel bits with really fine steel wool... sometimes, you can wrap steel wool on an old bit and secure it with tight wire (go around the fitting with the wire and twist tie like a bread back several times to get it tight) or even duct tape if you do it carefully and tight. Use more steel wool than you think you'll need since it mashes down or will spin off the top. Practice on areas you'e not worried about until you get it down to what you need. Patience in the key in rigging Dremmel bits ghetto-style or otherwise! Worn out stone-style bits are my fav for steel wool rigging and crevices. There are probably some other creative ways to do this. Waste not want not!

Mine is variable speed, but I still get irked when the bits wear out too fast or find out too late that I've used the wrong grit!
 
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