Engins Case Modifications

[gs11ezrydr]

Pertaining to the GS1100 and 1150 engines.I have seen several different types of ideas from drilling holes, cutting out square places, etc. in the clutch basket area, and also the crankshaft area, opening up the area around the shift forks etc. Smoothing out any rough casting marks etc. I have even seen Pro modified cases stated in some articles. Is there any real benefits from this and if there is. Does any one have any pictures? I could see and possibly use in modifying my own cases. Or any diagrams and sizes of the holes and locations of these holes, rectangle cut out areas etc.. Thanks for any input.

 

[GS1150Pilot]

Sounds sketchy to me.

 

[rapidray]

Sounds sketchy to me.

Not at all! We cut out the cross under the trans to be able to change bent shift forks without having to take the motor out & split the cases. Holes are drilled under the clutch basket to get oil away from the clutch to reduce parasitic drag. You don't even want to see the epoxy from boring for 89 & 90 mm pistons & huge sleeves.
Ray.

 

[GS1150Pilot]

Zoiks. You know what you're talking about, Ray. It sort of freaks me out.

 

[blowerbike]

i used to do the smoothing for the oil drain back...got old and once i thought about it and the weight of the oil...i stopped.
thick oil doesn't drain back real fast no matter what.
the removal of the cross section for fork changes on the bike is a must but i don't miss hot oil dripping in my face while changing the forks..

 

[gs11ezrydr]

Thanks folks I always like to pick up little ideas that don't cost any thing and benefit the engines, make them easier to work on etc..

 

[rapidray]

Call me, I will share my knowledge with you.
Ray.

 

[gs11ezrydr]

Found a cool article in Sport Rider magazine June 1995 about the 1100 GS's where Ward Performance did some work on them. Dyno results and all. and also an article about catching the ZX 11's with the 1150's back then also. I scanned and downloaded the articles to my PC but I can't send them to the Gsresources I guess because the file is to large. I have seen larger articles posted but I don't know how as of now. Any Ideas so I can share then with you all. Cyls. bored to 1166 10.25:1 comp. 1983 camshafts,105 degree centerlines, Crank rebuilt and welded, Back cut trans,I did find the K&N air filter #RU-1810 increased air flow by 12.3 % Ward used this with the 1150 36cv carbs 50 pilots and 140 mains stock needles when he Dynoed the intake system and was attached directly to the intake plenum and air box removed, Slight mods to the head by removing casting flaws, and some work in the valve seat area, netted an increased flow of 59%,135.5 HP at 8500 rpm 91.8 ft-lbs of torque at 6750 rpm Averaging the #'s they netted 80.2 ft. lbs of torque and 109 horses between 4000-10,000 for such a mild state of tune that should live a long life,

 

[posplayr]

Found a cool article in Sport Rider magazine June 1995 about the 1100 GS's where Ward Performance did some work on them. Dyno results and all. and also an article about catching the ZX 11's with the 1150's back then also. I scanned and downloaded the articles to my PC but I can't send them to the Gsresources I guess because the file is to large. I have seen larger articles posted but I don't know how as of now. Any Ideas so I can share then with you all. Cyls. bored to 1166 10.25:1 comp. 1983 camshafts,105 degree centerlines, Crank rebuilt and welded, Back cut trans,I did find the K&N air filter #RU-1810 increased air flow by 12.3 % Ward used this with the 1150 36cv carbs 50 pilots and 140 mains stock needles when he Dynoed the intake system and was attached directly to the intake plenum and air box removed, Slight mods to the head by removing casting flaws, and some work in the valve seat area, netted an increased flow of 59%,135.5 HP at 8500 rpm 91.8 ft-lbs of torque at 6750 rpm Averaging the #'s they netted 80.2 ft. lbs of torque and 109 horses between 4000-10,000 for such a mild state of tune that should live a long life,

If you read this, it basically describes a similar motor(1166 10.25:1, CV 36, pods, pipe). The difference with mine, is more port work (20% increase in flow rate), larger 28mm intake valves and 0.340 Webcams v.s. the stock 83's and 4:2:1 for more mid range.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=137631&highlight=low+cost

Mine tuned at 45 pilot jet with 135 mains and dyno needed near the bottom.

 

[rapidray]

Found a cool article in Sport Rider magazine June 1995 about the 1100 GS's where Ward Performance did some work on them. Dyno results and all. and also an article about catching the ZX 11's with the 1150's back then also. I scanned and downloaded the articles to my PC but I can't send them to the Gsresources I guess because the file is to large. I have seen larger articles posted but I don't know how as of now. Any Ideas so I can share then with you all. Cyls. bored to 1166 10.25:1 comp. 1983 camshafts,105 degree centerlines, Crank rebuilt and welded, Back cut trans,I did find the K&N air filter #RU-1810 increased air flow by 12.3 % Ward used this with the 1150 36cv carbs 50 pilots and 140 mains stock needles when he Dynoed the intake system and was attached directly to the intake plenum and air box removed, Slight mods to the head by removing casting flaws, and some work in the valve seat area, netted an increased flow of 59%,135.5 HP at 8500 rpm 91.8 ft-lbs of torque at 6750 rpm Averaging the #'s they netted 80.2 ft. lbs of torque and 109 horses between 4000-10,000 for such a mild state of tune that should live a long life,

This is the type of street motor I build all the time. My 1166s are 140 hp at the rear wheel with mild cams & ride cross country reliability. 1229 makes a little more, 1327 a little more still & the 1385 is just STUPID fun & TORQUE!!!
Ray.

 

[Gregory]

This is the type of street motor I build all the time. My 1166s are 140 hp at the rear wheel with mild cams & ride cross country reliability. 1229 makes a little more, 1327 a little more still & the 1385 is just STUPID fun & TORQUE!!!
Ray.

Just out of curiosity, what is the total cost to do one of those 1166's Ray?

And what would you charge someone to do it for them?

 

[rapidray]

Gregory, call me at 714--356-7845.
Ray.

 

[geek]

Pertaining to the GS1100 and 1150 engines.I have seen several different types of ideas from drilling holes, cutting out square places, etc. in the clutch basket area, and also the crankshaft area, opening up the area around the shift forks etc. Smoothing out any rough casting marks etc. I have even seen Pro modified cases stated in some articles. Is there any real benefits from this and if there is. Does any one have any pictures? I could see and possibly use in modifying my own cases. Or any diagrams and sizes of the holes and locations of these holes, rectangle cut out areas etc.. Thanks for any input.

I don't like drilling holes under the basket. Clutch material tends to get trapped in this area. I also do not remove material from the cases unless I have to. If I tweak a fork or a rod, I want to pull the thing down.

 

[TeamDar]

I don't like drilling holes under the basket. Clutch material tends to get trapped in this area. I also do not remove material from the cases unless I have to. If I tweak a fork or a rod, I want to pull the thing down.

If you just race at your local track that is fine. Try traveling 5-12 hours to a race. You would wish that you could service the forks and rods through the pan. Ask me how I know. Dar

 

[rapidray]

If you just race at your local track that is fine. Try traveling 5-12 hours to a race. You would wish that you could service the forks and rods through the pan. Ask me how I know. Dar

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This EXACTLY!!
Ray.

 

[geek]

If you just race at your local track that is fine. Try traveling 5-12 hours to a race. You would wish that you could service the forks and rods through the pan. Ask me how I know. Dar

Yes, I am spoiled running on Martin's track. Well prep'ed and smooth. We are lucky to have them in the area.

 

[trippivot]

basic mods I know of

basic mods I know of

#1 holes under clutch basket - right in the casting circles - as big as it is and bevel the edges.
#2 trans access -- turns a 1 hour job into a 15 minute job.
#3 modify the sump pick up to draw from the rear of the engine.
#4 cut threads into the case mounting holes -- I use short 1/2' thick bolts to secure the engine instead of long stock ones
#5 rear upper engine mount Weld a 1/2" square piece of mild steel between the plates - or buy an APE unit.
#6 APE studs and nuts both on top and bottom
#7 smooth the fins off the oil pan and get a flush hex bolt for ground clearance
#8 with a outer bearing support for the countershaft a chain guide to direct a broken chain out and away from your cases -- got the idea from a dirt bike

#9 is to open the main bores to accept larger sleeves --if needed -