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Excessive Revving

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mondo48
  • Start date Start date
M

Mondo48

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I had trouble getting my 1983 gs650gl started for awhile and pulled out the carbs to see if they needed rebuilt (smelled like it was flooding when trying to start) They looked fine, so i put them back on and hauled it to the Suzuki dealership for a valve adjustment.

They called and said they got the adjustment done no problem, and the bike starts really easy, but it wants to rev through the roof as soon as it starts. They said they played with the main idle valve under the carbs and it didnt affect anything. They said they could go in and figure it out for 75/carb. I said no thanks and now im trying to figure it out myself.

I havent actually picked the bike up yet, but i think i've got it narrowed down to 2 things it may be.

1. I got the throttle and choke cables mixed up when reinstalling the carbs, and the shorter choke cable is holding the throttle open.

2. I noticed when reinstalling the carbs that there were cracks and splits in one or 2 of the flanges connecting the carbs to the air box. A guy at work said that could easily be the problem, but i dont really think he knows what hes talking about.

So, lets say that its not either one of those things....What could it be? I cant really think of anything else, and i'm really banking on it being one of them.

Thanks alot for any feedback
 
Intake boots and o rings under the flanges on the intake boots. Classic symptom. And after they charged you 300 dollars to "figure out the carbs" or something like that they would have tacked on 100 dollars for new boots.

You can buy a set of new boots for 80 dollars, the o rings underneath for about 15 if that is all you need. Use WD-40 and spray around the boots when the engine is running and see if the speed changes. Then you will know.

And I won't charge you 300 washingtons for this.
 
+1 on the carb flanges being cracked, this is leaning out mixture and causing motor to rev up. Replace with new. While at it, replace orings in flanges, and thoroughly clean carbs with new orings in them also.
 
Greetings and Salutations!

Greetings and Salutations!

Hi Mr. Mondo48,

You've come to the right place. Let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike! :D

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
The shop probably knows what is wrong with it too, but here is a chance to make 400 dollars for an hours' work. We hear these stories all the time. Once a guy took his 1100 in for carb rebuilding to a shop and the idiot kid they let work on it broke the float tower in the carb. They had the nerve to tell him it came in that way and he had to buy a new part. We squared him away too.


Check the vacuum line on the #2 cylinder, it may be off causing it to suck air and rev high. Happens after the tank is off. Sometimes the hose is brittle and leaks. This line goes to the petcock on the tank from the #2 cylinder and turns the fuel flow on. Again, use WD-40 to find the air leak, it is probbaly between the engine and carbs since a leak on the other side causes low power and misfires at speed.
 
Carb boots yes. The ones between the carbs and engine not the ones to the air box. Do check the throdle cables too...
 
alright...i went and got the bike awhile ago and its running a LOT better than I expected...its just idling high and the main idle valve will only slow it down so much, so i guess i'm going to go pick up some w-d and head over to work on it....and put on the new exhaust I got for it


Thanks alot for the welcome....I'll post some pics as soon as I can!
 
Mondo48 said:
alright...i went and got the bike awhile ago and its running a LOT better than I expected...its just idling high and the main idle valve will only slow it down so much, so i guess i'm going to go pick up some w-d and head over to work on it....and put on the new exhaust I got for it


Thanks alot for the welcome....I'll post some pics as soon as I can!
Click to expand...

WD-40 is an unreliable method to check for air leaks. It's best to pull the carbs off, remove the carb boots, and inspect the boots visually while they are in your hand. If they check out, replace the large O-rings between the boot and the head - they are almost sure to leak unless they have been replaced before.

Oh, and if they new exhaust you are installing is an aftermarket header, you will most likely have to rejet the carbs while you are at it.
 
You could also unhook your throttle cable, after ensuring that your idle adjustment is backed all the way out. You may be experiencing something as goofy as a cable that is hanging up.


But as Ness and everyone else has said, if your boots and o-rings have never been attended to, this is the time to dedicate to doing it right and replacing them.

The question you have to ask yourself is, would you rather be out riding or chasing after old, crappy parts.
 
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