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Exhaust bolts

  • Thread starter Thread starter Sojourner
  • Start date Start date
S

Sojourner

Guest
Almost hate to admit it, but I bought OEM bolts for my exhaust @ $2.60 a bolt from Bike Bandit. That being said, I did only buy one in the hopes I could use it to find cheaper replacements. I don't know a lot about fastener grades and materials, so I wanted to ask a simple question. I was reading the "Carbs - Spot n' polish" thread and wondered if I could use stainless bolts to attach my exhaust to the cylinder head? My bikes bolts are pretty nasty looking and need replaced. A PO mounted a header instead of the stock pipes and the flanges aren't bolted down tight. So I ordered some gaskets and whatnot from Bike Bandit along the single bolt and intend to get it all tightened down and on right. So to make a long post short- can I use stainless bolts to mount the flanges to the head, and if so, is there any special fastener grade I'll need to look for? The header is black and I'm wrapping it in black exhaust wrap, so the stainless bolts should "pop" in contrast and look pretty cool.

Thanks

(P.S.- No I'm not cutting it up. I have opted to keep it fairly original aside from bits like above and a custom paintjob)
 
You can use stainless bolts if you like - no problem, just use a bit of copperslip in case you ever need to undo them again. Allen bolts look nice as well in my opinion but of course it's your choice.

Or you can use studs - a better idea really as you won't be undoing threads in aluminium if you need to start taking the exhaust off again. Stainless again is ok.
 
I chose to use studs, my mounting holes were showing wear and I had to helicoil one of them. These were not the best studs, but they did work great. They are in there ROCK solid!
I got them at advanced auto parts for around 6 bucks for a ten pack.
8x1.25 i think. Nuts not included. Even though they really should not ever need to come out, I used anti seize.
2012-08-11_23-56-01_31.jpg
 
HA! Looks similar to what I'm shooting for. Well, except that my engine isn't that shiny and I'm using black wrap. I think I might opt for the stud and acorn route after all. That single bolt will at least get me the right size/pitch.

Here's another question- Are the flanges NOT supposed to necessarily rest against the head? I was assuming that the gaps between flange and head where responsible for a lot of my issues. It looks like the two left-most are flat against the head and the two right-most flanges aren't. Are four of mine look like the two on the right of your picture (albeit with severely rusted bolts).

And one more just for Loud_et - Is there a particular reason you used two wire wraps around each pipe near the flange? I ordered an extra set of five, but that's because it didn't specify if the Helix wrap came with any.
 
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The flanges just push up against the collets and when they are tight enough they're tight enough.

Depending on your collets and your flanges some flanges will close up near to the head while others will appear to leave a big gap.
 
studded mine as well. that after breaking 5/8 bolts and ending up drilling them out. thought i'd ruined my bike for a long while there. studs are in, loctited, heaven help me if i ever decide there's a reason to take them out.
 
Funny you posted this. I am trying to decide between Allen head SS bolts and studs with acorn nuts for my exhaust. If you do a search for acorn nuts here I'm sure some threads will pop up.

Acorn nuts have a nice finished look to them.

Just be sure to use antisieze with any SS screw or bolt.
 
Sojourner said:
HA! Looks similar to what I'm shooting for. Well, except that my engine isn't that shiny and I'm using black wrap. I think I might opt for the stud and acorn route after all. That single bolt will at least get me the right size/pitch.

Here's another question- Are the flanges NOT supposed to necessarily rest against the head? I was assuming that the gaps between flange and head where responsible for a lot of my issues. It looks like the two left-most are flat against the head and the two right-most flanges aren't. Are four of mine look like the two on the right of your picture (albeit with severely rusted bolts).

And one more just for Loud_et - Is there a particular reason you used two wire wraps around each pipe near the flange? I ordered an extra set of five, but that's because it didn't specify if the Helix wrap came with any.
Click to expand...

The only reason i used two is that they were cheap and i was concerned about it comin loose. And i am weird. Lol
I guess it is just what i did at the moment.
 
Sojourner said:
HA! Looks similar to what I'm shooting for. Well, except that my engine isn't that shiny and I'm using black wrap. I think I might opt for the stud and acorn route after all. That single bolt will at least get me the right size/pitch.
Click to expand...
I just had one of the exhaust bolts on my 1100E disappear. If you please could you share that size and pitch when the bolt arrives?
...
 
Stainless Steel Bolts and lock washers, I couldn't find studs at the time....

P1080721.jpg


P1090414.jpg


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dpep said:
I just had one of the exhaust bolts on my 1100E disappear. If you please could you share that size and pitch when the bolt arrives?
...
Click to expand...

Why not just remove another one and find a match? :confused:

Eric
 
Here's a quick question-

I'm going to look for studs and acorn nuts today at the local hardware store. Should I opt for stainless of would zinc work? Do they need to be a particular grade (like G8, etc.)? I wouldn't think so, but thought I'd ask. Finally, I should use anti-seize regardless of plating? I had been thinking Lock-tite to keep them in place...
 
Sojourner said:
Here's a quick question-

I'm going to look for studs and acorn nuts today at the local hardware store. Should I opt for stainless of would zinc work? Do they need to be a particular grade (like G8, etc.)? I wouldn't think so, but thought I'd ask. Finally, I should use anti-seize regardless of plating? I had been thinking Lock-tite to keep them in place...
Click to expand...
Stainless would probably work, not sure how much the strength of stainless degrades (if any) when it gets hot.

Nothing stronger than the standard "grade" is necessary, there is not a whole lot of stress on those bolts.

Anti-seize vs Loc-tite? Do you EVER anticipate removing the pipes again? If you are comfortable with the idea that you may never, EVER have to remove your exhaust pipes FOR ANY REASON, go ahead and use the Loc-tite. Not sure how well the blue stuff handles heat, but I do know that the recommended way to loosen the red stuff so you and remove the bolt is to heat it. How well is it going to hold with rather constant heat on it? Anti-sieze and proper torque should work well.

.
 
I would go stainless steel with anti-seize. SS won't rust and the AS will keep it from sticking. Those are both good things.
 
I get what you're saying Steve, but I was planning on moving to studs so I wouldn't have to remove them ever again. It'd be the acorn nuts (and washers/lock washers) that would need to come off once in a blue moon. It's the studs I was going to possibly Lock-tite, not the nuts. :)
 
In that case, go for it.

By the way, "once in a blue moon" happens more often than most people realize. :-\\\

From Wikipedia:
The following blue moons occur between 2009 and 2021. These dates use UTC as the timezone; exact dates vary with different timezones.

Seasonal
Using the Maine Farmers' Almanac definition of blue moon (meaning the third full moon in a season of four full moons), blue moons occur
  • November 21, 2010
  • August 21, 2013
  • May 21, 2016
  • May 18, 2019
  • August 22, 2021
Calendar
Unlike the astronomical seasonal definition, these dates are dependent on the Gregorian calendar and time zones.

Two full moons in one month (the second of which is a "blue moon"):[14]
  • 2009: December 2, December 31 (partial lunar eclipse visible in some parts of the world), only in time zones west of UTC+05.
  • 2010: January 1 (partial lunar eclipse), January 30, only in time zones east of UTC+04:30.
  • 2010: March 1, March 30, only in time zones east of UTC+07.
  • 2012: August 2, August 31, only in time zones west of UTC+10.
  • 2012: September 1, September 30, only in time zones east of UTC+10:30.
  • 2015: July 2, July 31
  • 2018: January 2, January 31
  • 2018: March 2, March 31
  • 2020: October 1, October 31
.
 
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use anti seize, no locktite required, get your acorn nuts and some lock washers, torque properly and your good to go

in my opinion

.
 
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